The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

About to replace the seals or complete 6 vane unit.
Question.....is an upgrade to 12 vane unit worthwhile?

Thanks Doug

Sorry, cannot resist...
An oft-debated question here, on the Stag and SAAB forums over the years, the latter of which is who to blame anyway for the integrated design!

http://socforum.com/forum/showthread.ph ... ch-is-best
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=6+van ... te.co.uk&*

I'm probably wrong here, but I recall that the 6 vane is fine in most cases, the 12 vane is better at shifting water at low rpm, but worse at high (smaller water pockets, high shear). My preferable option, and what I plan to do myself, would be to retain the original pump as is, and fit in an external auxiliary electric water pump to help it along at low revs if the water temperature rises.

The 12 vane needs the right cover. Only fit one if your 6 vane impellor is loose on your spindle.

Little evidence of major cooling differences on slant 4's.

Jonners

I believe the works cars used 12 vane and cut half the blades off to stop cavitation at high rpm. Use either but as Jon says the cover must match the impeller

Tony

Thanks guys, with the cover off it all seems tight enough. So probs just go for seals and gaskets.
Reason for doing is evidence of water leak (rusty trail) from slot in block below the pump cover. I did wonder why that was there but I guess any water leaks from the pump need directed away from the crankcase.

We used to have a wiki guide on how to do this job. Have a look at Mahesh's resto thread which I think is the most recent pump overhaul of late. The crucial thing is the state of the impeller underneath. You can now have these machined and a ceramic ring inserted. The Stag guys do this type of seal (pump is the same) and it should then last indefinitely.

Fitchett parts or Robsport do good seal kits at a fair price.

Buy nothing from Lincolnshire except sausages.

Jonners

Jonners, it ain't totally lost. I posted your words of wisdom in the members-only section 3 years ago. The thread in this section of the forum which you started will be more than 3 years old by now.

I did this a while ago, and got a kit from LD parts (stag specialist)
It included a ceramic "polo" which does not have to be used, but I chose to. Needs a little machining off the impellor, and the polo is stuck in place. It provides an excellent surface for the seal to run against, and as I managed to borrow a lathe made sense. If the contact face of the impellor is anything but perfect it will need machining....

The kits supplied are for a perkins diesel something or other, but work perfectly. Probably the same kit supplied by everybody.

Doug

Have a look / read at the attached viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7214&start=15#p109817

Paul

Thanks Paul 'et al' ....... thought this was going to be straightforward but ......
Let's see how the removal goes