The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

I got hold of some cheap Sprint alloys to tart up my 1850 a bit. They came with a full set of 7/16 alloy nuts and caps. All I need now is either a set of 7/16 studs or another set of nuts. Found these does anyone know if they will fit as they are cheaper than Rimmers, Quiller, eBay and anyone else I have looked at so far:

Part no.- SN21 http://www.scarbroracing.co.uk/wheelnuts

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someone on here may be able to answer that 4 u, eg alun, jonners, mad mart, smifter or someone else whos a bit of a techo, but i cant.

I'd call them, ask them if they'll take em back if they dont fit, buy 4 and try them...

then come back to us and let us all know, coz you could end up being a hero, and get lots of cuddles n stuff

Sure it depends on year of manufacture.

When I stuck the Sprint wheels on my 77, 1500 I was sold the wrong one's by Rimmers.

They said due to the change over during 1977, some thread sizes were different on the studs.

I bought steel ones, rather than the alloy one as per original, i'll put up with galvanic corrossion rather than stripped threads.

Sorry can't remember the thread size either which is rather bad for an engineer!

I'm pretty certain its the stud size that depends on the year of manufacture, 7/16 are the later studs.

sprint wheel nuts are different to the nuts for the steel wheels as the sleeved part of the nut fits inside the register where the wheel is drilled/bored for the nut. the sleeves should all be the same size, but im not certain if its 5/8. given that one would expect them to be a sort of 'industry standard', i would have thought they would fit.

just the thread size on nuts and studs that are different, i.e. 3/8 or 7/16.

duno the accurate dia of the sleeve, the most accurate thing i have to measure them with is a ruler or tape measure!

Ok, Monday morning I'll order 4 of 'em and see how they fit. Will let you all know how I get on.

Regards,
Karl.

I dont think they will be any good just measured some and the shank is 0.670"DIA and .5" long. 5/8" is 0.625". The part of the alloy wheel where the shank goes is only 0.575" thick.

Shame that.

Bad advice from Rimmers there Al, the change over applies to Sprints ONLY, pre '76 change over cars having 3/8", later cars 7/16".

ALL other models had 3/8" studs and nuts for the entire production run.

You get the odd set off early nuts appear on ebay from time to time, but be warned for precisely your own reasons they are somewhat sought after.

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES CONSIDER USING YOUR 1850 NUTS AS THIS WOULD NOT SEAT THE ALLOY WHEEL CORRECTLY

Welcome all the same; try an appeal in the wanted section, someone may have a set spare...

Bin the 3/8 studs and replace with 7/16. Triumph changed them for a reason and Scott will testify to that!. Try Speedshack for studs, or Rimmers, or one of us probably has a set kicking around.

David

...fronts are easy to change, the rear you need a press or hydraulic puller...

I've only ever seen one broken stud...a front 7/16 on my Vermillion V plater when i bought it.

Ive seen several stripped nuts of equal size, all alloy.

Ive seen one knackered wheel with so much wear on the hole it had to be weighed in...used with a steel (locking) nut!

Some say the 1850 and Sprint only have the locating spiggot for the wheel centre and the lower order ones dont. Kev has Sprint wheels on his 1500 HL with 3/8 nuts and has no issues. There is a spiggot on the front hubs but these are all the same? Never noticed on the back. Ive got one 1850 with Sprint wheels too and had no issues with a 3/8 setup.

Just use good original alloy nuts with nice clean stud threads and you will be fine. Dont over tighten them...dont use an air wrench at a tyre fitters.

Jonners

all alloy nuts must be torqued up 7/16 at 70ftlbs cant think of the 3/8 torque but triumphs had problems with police cars loosing wheels round corners (met police ?) having been overtightened and causing thread damage with the use of air tools etc....

Think it's 45 lb ft for 3/8"

Thanks all for the advice.