The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hello all, long time no post!



This year I've been attempting to put the doors back together on my Sprint. I've got virtually nowhere with it though.

I'm a bit stuck with how the linkages are supposed to work. The back ones were OK but I'm having some trouble with the fronts. this is where I'm up to:



But it all seems a bit wrong somehow. It doesn't look like the mechanism is doing anything (certainly it doesn't move like the back door one does) and it looks like the linkage is rubbing against the one which would go up to the knob that pokes through the door top.

Does anyone have any pictures of this bit they could share with me, or any advice about what I'm doing wrong? Thanks!

In the last few weeks, i've taken about 8 assorted doors to bits.

What I can do is lay out all the bits on a sheet, clipped together in the proper fashion but without the door and photo that, if that will help!

Steve

That would be a big help, thanks. All of the manuals I've looked at only have a picture of the (simpler) rear doors, and it's been ten years or so since I took the doors apart.

They are a right PITA to get to and get clipped correctly (just did my passenger side last weekend).

The vertical link (connecting to the door handle) you have connected 90 degrees out. So (trying to explain in words) the elbow of the link faces the outside of the door (you have it facing the hinges at the moment), and goes into a hole (just obscured in your photo) via a small plastic bush and then the clip.

PITA....especially if you have the window channels in.

Cold and wet here, but if Carledo has any issues, then I can take a few photos (or try to) inbetween rain and hailstorms

trying to add pics?
any help?

The trick I remember with a lot of Triumph doors is to loosen the rear window channel from its bolted bracket towards the base of the door
and this gives much better access to the various door handle linkages, especially the ones on the door lock.

The clips and plastic hollow buttons the wirey bits bush into are all pretty crucial and some differ in crank and reach. All are available from Moss and common to a lot of classics.

Its a fiddle but comes with practice.

Jonners

Doors are completely dismantled at the moment, with no windows - so at least that makes things a bit easier!

Looking at the picture of the manual, I think I have it about right - but it doesn't feel like it's doing anything. Does anyone agree, or am I looking at it wrong?

i guess I'll have to install the catch on the pillar and see what happens...

DavePoth wrote: ↑Sun Jul 16, 2017 2:56 pm Doors are completely dismantled at the moment, with no windows - so at least that makes things a bit easier!

Looking at the picture of the manual, I think I have it about right - but it doesn't feel like it's doing anything. Does anyone agree, or am I looking at it wrong?

i guess I'll have to install the catch on the pillar and see what happens...

before you put the catch back on the door pillar,put a screw driver in the end of the door latch at make out the door has closed,then if you have done any thing wrong ,you wont have trouble opening the door

Dave

before you put the catch back on the door pillar,put a screw driver in the end of the door latch at make out the door has closed,then if you have done any thing wrong ,you wont have trouble opening the door

Dave
[/quote]

good idea, i have done that before

Sorry if my info was misleading..according to the diagrams Id say yours is spot on.
Remember though that the latching mechanism doesn't have a spring return (like other cars/moderns) it relies on you pulling to door open to reset. So when you use the screwdriver to double click the latch in, you will need to be pressing the button AND removing the screwdriver as the latching 'cam' doesn't spring back by itself.
Least..none of mine did

The latches ARE supposed to spring open (though the spring is quite weak) old age and old, dried up grease means they usually need a bit of help from the screwdriver!

Steve