The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

grumpy2 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 30, 2017 8:13 am I've just done the exact same job at the same time replacing the rack.

yes the U clamps are stupidly close to the oil pump - try getting one out!

Yes the steady bracket looks at an angle on the 'chassis leg' but parallel to the engine

Hope this helps

peterkeel wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2017 11:19 am There should be at least a finger width gap between the oil pump and rack otherwise the pump will make contact and can wear through the pump body. This is usually down to the engine mounts. If they are new are they genuine stock? Examine the offside one to see if there is any offset on the bolts positions and then refit to give maximum engine lift. I have had to change mine quite often as the recent mounts I have purchased have suffered very rapid sagging and even de-bonding of the rubber and my regular check is that if I cannot get my finger in between pump and rack the mount gets changed regardless of how old it is.

sprintchris wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2017 10:56 pm

peterkeel wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2017 11:19 am There should be at least a finger width gap between the oil pump and rack otherwise the pump will make contact and can wear through the pump body. This is usually down to the engine mounts. If they are new are they genuine stock? Examine the offside one to see if there is any offset on the bolts positions and then refit to give maximum engine lift. I have had to change mine quite often as the recent mounts I have purchased have suffered very rapid sagging and even de-bonding of the rubber and my regular check is that if I cannot get my finger in between pump and rack the mount gets changed regardless of how old it is.

I'd say I can't get a finger through the gap. The mounts are new, but about 10 years old. I did notice the studs/bolt holes didn't line up with the mount off so I put them on thinking one way round would be lower than the other, so the higher position, not sure it matters as there's nothing in the workshop manual dictating which way round they go. The studs didn't quite line up so had to elongate the bracket holes. I just hate pattern parts!!

cleverusername wrote: ↑Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:35 am

sprintchris wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2017 10:56 pm

peterkeel wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2017 11:19 am There should be at least a finger width gap between the oil pump and rack otherwise the pump will make contact and can wear through the pump body. This is usually down to the engine mounts. If they are new are they genuine stock? Examine the offside one to see if there is any offset on the bolts positions and then refit to give maximum engine lift. I have had to change mine quite often as the recent mounts I have purchased have suffered very rapid sagging and even de-bonding of the rubber and my regular check is that if I cannot get my finger in between pump and rack the mount gets changed regardless of how old it is.

I'd say I can't get a finger through the gap. The mounts are new, but about 10 years old. I did notice the studs/bolt holes didn't line up with the mount off so I put them on thinking one way round would be lower than the other, so the higher position, not sure it matters as there's nothing in the workshop manual dictating which way round they go. The studs didn't quite line up so had to elongate the bracket holes. I just hate pattern parts!!

I had a similar problem, but was able to force them in with a long screwdriver. You're right, the mounts don't seem to line up. I had one NOS mount and one new. The trick seems to be to do the nearside first, I had to take the exhaust manifold off to get at it.

Then you can force the offside in. I did have the advantage of an engine crane, which allowed me to lift the engine with some degree of control, but it was still a massive pain to get them to fit.

Not sure you shouldn't adjust the mounting holes, with the clearance being so tight.