The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Is this a Sprint engine?




Ian.

sprint95m wrote: ↑Sun Sep 03, 2017 1:52 pm Is this a Sprint engine?




Ian.

Ian

yes sprint engine

Dave

new to this wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:44 pm My exhaust front down pipe,needs replacing,but i can not undo the three bolts,now a bit rounded,so tired to take the manifold off but there the same,so my question is,do i pull the engine out or can you take the head off but still leave the timing untouched, a bit like the stag,you can take a stag head off and leave the timing gear just sitting there

thanks for any help Dave

I have just rebuilt one of these engines and you should be able to undo the bolts holding the timing cog on the cam. Then the head can come off. Assuming you can get the head bolts undone.

Even though I do possess an engine crane I would be loathe to remove the engine just to facilitate front pipe replacement.

Instead I would persevere with six sided sockets ( or spanners)....
instead of a 9/16"AF I would hammer a 14mm socket on.


If you haven't done so already, removing the heater's blower does improve access considerably (but it is still a squeeze).




Ian.

Does the engine still run? Maybe soak in WD40, run the engine until very hot, maybe put an extra bit of heat on too with a blow lamp, but definitely use a good quality spanner or socket. I've just put mine together, the down pipe bolts had sheared off so the holes have been drilled and nut and bolts put in, use brass manifold nuts. The bonus is if they seize/shear in the future the broken bits will just fall out! If you take the manifold off, I'd put plenty of copper grease on the bolts when they go back in.

cleverusername wrote: ↑Sun Sep 03, 2017 6:47 pm

new to this wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:44 pm My exhaust front down pipe,needs replacing,but i can not undo the three bolts,now a bit rounded,so tired to take the manifold off but there the same,so my question is,do i pull the engine out or can you take the head off but still leave the timing untouched, a bit like the stag,you can take a stag head off and leave the timing gear just sitting there

thanks for any help Dave

I have just rebuilt one of these engines and you should be able to undo the bolts holding the timing cog on the cam. Then the head can come off. Assuming you can get the head bolts undone.

Thanks,ive worked out a way of sleaving the exhaust,then i can get the exhaust on to see what the fit will be like,a bit later down the line when i paint the engine bay ill deal with the exhaust manifold

thanks Dave

sprintchris wrote: ↑Sun Sep 03, 2017 9:17 pm Does the engine still run? Maybe soak in WD40, run the engine until very hot, maybe put an extra bit of heat on too with a blow lamp, but definitely use a good quality spanner or socket. I've just put mine together, the down pipe bolts had sheared off so the holes have been drilled and nut and bolts put in, use brass manifold nuts. The bonus is if they seize/shear in the future the broken bits will just fall out! If you take the manifold off, I'd put plenty of copper grease on the bolts when they go back in.

ive already tried using a blow lamp the heat the bolt but no joy

thanks Dave

sprint95m wrote: ↑Sun Sep 03, 2017 7:45 pm Even though I do possess an engine crane I would be loathe to remove the engine just to facilitate front pipe replacement.

Instead I would persevere with six sided sockets ( or spanners)....
instead of a 9/16"AF I would hammer a 14mm socket on.


If you haven't done so already, removing the heater's blower does improve access considerably (but it is still a squeeze).




Ian.

Thanks Ian

already tried all that but thanks for ideas

Dave

As explained yesterday Dave, if you jack up the nearside of the engine (having undone the mount on that side and the radiator top hoses), you can remove the manifold and downpipe together, though some of the manifold bolts will undo from the head, but will hit the turret/flitch panel before they extract from the manifold, so remember which as refitting requires them to be similarly in the manifold before it is offered up.

Rounded bolt heads require surface drive spanners; the best tool in my tool box

What Alun just said but you can also try dropping the 2 rear subframe bolts to see if you get better access from underneath.

These downpipe flange bolts are right PITA, but access to even rounded ones is substantially improved if you have the facilities to swing out the engine and box together. You get a lot of benefits from removing the engine, like access to the rack mountings and a general sort of oil leaks and clucth plates and exhaust mounting bracketry and heat sheilds etc..

Definitely replace with studs and nuts, but be advised it will be difficult to impossible to refit the downpipe with the bottom stud in place.

Jonners