The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Any tips on getting the engine out? does that plate, spacer thing stay with the engine or the box? how little can I get away with undoing? Carbs stay on etc. Many thanks in anticipation of some answers

Yes the spacer can stay on, so gearbox off in the usual way. There are several ways to get to it though. Some leave engine in and remove gearbox but this involves removing the tunnel and you need to remove the ex downpipe (it fouls on the bellhousing). Removing engine and leaving box in is a real pain because of the downpipe too. Most (including me) would say, engine and box out. You can leave carbs on and downpipe but remove the exhaust from the downpipe. Radiator out too. Engine and box needs to come out at a really steep angle so the sump clears the front panel but the rear of the box will need to be supported when passing through the subframe at the rear.
If you go tunnel out, remove front seats and carpet and tunnel and exhaust bits. Box will need to be lifted out inside the car so lots of grovelling.
carledo will be along shortly and correct me lol.

Cheers

Tony

You'll need a long nose engine crane, a load leveller (invaluable) and 4 x axle stands or ramps as well as faith in the extreme angle you need to get it out. jacked up high at the back is needed for clearance. Make sure you well protect the front panel against any possible damage with old carpet or similar, also best done with someone else who can keep an eye on the gearbox tail as you ease it out and give things a helpful shove. As to what to remove, Haynes says lots but I did nothing more than disconnect all pipe/electrical work,exhaust at the front pipe, speedo cable and the propshaft then remove bonnet, radiator and heater blower hose (trust me). All the ancillarys stayed put.

Easy quick job when compared to doing similar with something like a Ford Mondeo!

What Rafe said!^^^^^^

Ths Sprint O/D box cannot be removed from inside the car, it's too long! And whilst dropping it out from below IS possible, the rear of the subframe needs to be dropped to get the angle AND the downpipe joint needs to be separated, a can of worms few of us old hands care to open!

I don't think there is a lot to choose between Rafe's method and the other Sprint experts stalwart, that of lowering the engine and gearbox out the bottom, complete with the subframe. This second method CAN be quicker IF you have the right facilities AND a bit of practice, in either approach, a load levelling frame is invaluable.

Steve

Ive taken a box out from inside the car.

Tony

Galileo wrote: ↑Wed Aug 01, 2018 10:15 pm You'll need a long nose engine crane, a load leveller (invaluable) and 4 x axle stands or ramps as well as faith in the extreme angle you need to get it out. jacked up high at the back is needed for clearance. Make sure you well protect the front panel against any possible damage with old carpet or similar, also best done with someone else who can keep an eye on the gearbox tail as you ease it out and give things a helpful shove. As to what to remove, Haynes says lots but I did nothing more than disconnect all pipe/electrical work,exhaust at the front pipe, speedo cable and the propshaft then remove bonnet, radiator and heater blower hose (trust me). All the ancillarys stayed put.

Easy quick job when compared to doing similar with something like a Ford Mondeo!

Your pic of the crane is interesting. I'm finalising plans to get my engine back in, hopefully later this month. When I removed the engine from the old shell I did manage to damage the front panel because I found the hydraulics not very forgiving. I was planning on using my dad's hoist which has a screw system instead but on looking at it we were wondering if the beam is too short. The beam cannot be adjusted and is fixed in length but decent height can be achieved. My concern is that the beam is too short and the front of the engine may hit the upright but actually looking at your pic the hydraulic part is pretty much in the way on your removal.

Any idea on the length you used on your beam to achieve the removal/refit?

Many thanks for the tips, going for it Friday. Just to clear things up it is my kit car, so clearances etc. not really a problem. engine and box together though, could be. I'm sure the four letter word will come to help though. Let the spanner clanking commence.

SprintMWU773V wrote: ↑Thu Aug 02, 2018 10:09 am Your pic of the crane is interesting. I'm finalising plans to get my engine back in, hopefully later this month. When I removed the engine from the old shell I did manage to damage the front panel because I found the hydraulics not very forgiving. I was planning on using my dad's hoist which has a screw system instead but on looking at it we were wondering if the beam is too short. The beam cannot be adjusted and is fixed in length but decent height can be achieved. My concern is that the beam is too short and the front of the engine may hit the upright but actually looking at your pic the hydraulic part is pretty much in the way on your removal.

Any idea on the length you used on your beam to achieve the removal/refit?

This is the dimensions of the crane* I've got, which you're welcome to borrow if you can get yourself over to Huntingdon! IIRC I used the 2450mm setting on the crane but might have got away with less.

Most interesting. Thanks for that.

Interestingly I notice that the rear end of your car is not especially high, you could have lowered the front somewhat too. This gives me a little more confidence, though it's the control of hydraulics that worries me.

Not ridiculously high, the stands were on their highest possible setting sat under the rear jacking points as on the axle there was not enough clearance. The picture shows everything coming out, went back in with an overdrive box fitted. Watch out for the end of the gearbox remote catching on the lip of the tunnel if you're doing it by yourself, and be prepared to just clear the front panel by a fag papers thickness, hence saying protect it well. It's honestly not as epic as it might read!