The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Can anybody tell me the torquing sequence and figures for a dolly 1850/(TR7) head please? Guessing it is different to a "normal" head with vertical studs (ie spiral out from the middle)
And the re-torquing procedure?

TIA
Clive

Some years ago I wrote an article on this in the Members' Section,
but alas I cannot find it now.

Anyhow, I use the BL method as per the workshop manual
which is to start with the middle stud then work outwards before moving onto the head bolts,
again starting in the middle and working out.
This should be done in stages.
The final figure is 55lbf.ft.

The threads should be lightly oiled and the head retightened after the engine has been run to operating temp
and then allowed to fully cool (overnight?).
After 500 miles the head should be retightened again.


Ian.

Thank you
Thought it would be in "rows" but best to check. Need to order some studs etc, and get it bolted back together and get some miles on it.

A friend had a stag head gasket done by a garage. They insisted the car was left there overnight prior to re-torquing if they were to guarantee the job. So that makes sense.
Luckily the gasket I have is a genuine BL one, so that should be one less thing to worry about!

cliftyhanger wrote: ↑Sun Aug 26, 2018 6:38 pm Can anybody tell me the torquing sequence and figures for a dolly 1850/(TR7) head please? Guessing it is different to a "normal" head with vertical studs (ie spiral out from the middle)
And the re-torquing procedure?

TIA
Clive

Taken from BL 1850 service manual

So the later advice was the "spiral" method. So which is best??
stags seem to use the studs-first method...

Both methods are/have been sworn by various experts, though I use the spiral method incrementally at 35, 45 and 55 ftlbs; I use a similar spiral technique on the Sprint rocker cover and find it pulls it down better.

On a '7 or 1850 I would wipe the stud shafts with copper slip for ease of future dismantling..

So either method is OK.
Yes, will use anti seize on the studs. But fingers crossed they will never need to come out again (I probably should not have said that)

Alun, is copper grease suitable for the temperatures that the studs would be subject to? I'm sure I read somewhere that somebody used copper grease on head studs and come head removal time, the stuff had turned to concrete. It was due to whatever else was in the grease besides the copper content.

Please tell me that I'm wrong.

Copper grease is good for 1000 degrees C so find for most applications. What happens is the carrier product evaporates and then you're left with the copper which is the anti seize.

David, you are wrong; there is no OPC in copper grease so it cannot turn into concrete.

xvivalve wrote: ↑Tue Aug 28, 2018 1:28 pm David, you are wrong; there is no OPC in copper grease so it cannot turn into concrete.

I have seen copperslip go "hard" ad dry out a bit. Not been an issue, and certainly better than bare metal on metal.
I am happy to use it on the studs.

I wonder how long Robsport will take to deliver all my bits and bobs to complete the job?

I had two deliveries from Robsport last week, both ordered by 'phone arrived the following day including one ordered at 4:30 pm!

MEV spares took a further day to get an internet order to me.

I was lucky wit this gasket, it is a genuine Leyland, complete with the "twisted A$$hole" symbol stamped into it.

No experience of any others, but I like Robsport so they may be worth asking what they supply and how good it is.

My Robsport order arrived today, 27 hours after ordering. As did some shims

Saturday is rebuild day....

Afraid I can't help, but I think I know the stall.
some of them advertise in the classic press. Uually nos clutches and brakes etc are the headline items.
I have a visitor tomorrow who may have some clues.

Alwyn Lewis? Shortish bloke with dark straight hair, thick glasses and a northern accent?