The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

I’m in the process of reassembling the front subframe of my dolomite 1850. I haven’t yet checked the end float on the hubs (waiting for a dialgauge) but I’ve finger tightened them and can’t perceive much end float so suspect they won’t need much more tightening. However having put the callipers back on temporarily the brake disc on one side is in contact with the calliper on the outer face. The other side of the frame is better but the outer face of the disc is still only just clearing the calliper. The callipers are original to the car (refurbished). The brake discs are new (Rossini items from rimmers). I have to say the felt oil seals that came with the bearing kits looked extremely thick. Could these be too thick thereby pushing the discs too far out? Having said that the castle nuts are already quite far in and if they go in much further the split pin may not sit in the notches in the nut. I’m at a bit of a loss - any suggestions? Thanks

Gary

Summat's up there all right. Have you measured the Rossini discs to make sure they are exactly the same size as standard discs? Both depth of the central part and disc thickness.

Thanks Mike. I got rid of the old discs ages ago. Can someone tell me what the dimensions should be?

I took one of the felt seals out this morning and the disc then sits nicely in the calliper and the hub spins nicely. The felt seal is about 8mm thick, compresses to about 6mm thick. Is this too thick? I saw someone on an earlier topic saying they had to cut theirs down. With the seal removed the hole for the split pin only just engages with the castle nut (see photo). Is this normal? Only other thing I could think of is should the stub axle be pressed into the vertical link? Currently I’ve just torqued the nut on the inner face up to the recommended value. However the thread on the stub axle doesn’t extend beyond the face of the nut which concerns me. See photos below.

If the felt is on the inside and was too think I would expect the hub to sit further out which would explain the pin missing the nut but surely the disc would be too far out, and in your picture it looks too far in. The stubs are pressed in and from my experience they are tight..

Mike the latest photos are with the felt removed. If the felt is in the disc sits too far out and clashes with the calliper. If the felt is out the disc sits nicely in the calliper but the split pin only just catches the castle nut.

On an upright and stub assembly I have here, the stub pokes through the upright approx 20.7mm and I have about 3 threads outside of the nut. Maybe looking at that first may bring other things into line?

Tony

tony g wrote: ↑Fri Feb 08, 2019 8:52 am On an upright and stub assembly I have here, the stub pokes through the upright approx 20.7mm and I have about 3 threads outside of the nut. Maybe looking at that first may bring other things into line?

Tony

I think this is a red herring, the OP has shown he's fitted a new nut to the stub axle, which is thicker than the original, which was a one off thin design that is very hard to get now.

Steve

Yes maybe, thats why I included the total length of the stub poking out

Tony

Tony, Steve thanks for your feedback, this forum is great! I hadn’t even noticed the different depth of nut, but having looked back at my ‘before’ photos attached it’s readily apparent. I will however double check the projection tonight. Also of interest is the ‘before’ photo of the castle nut which suggests a similar hole relationship to the nut. So looks like the stub axle is in the right place and it’s therefore the felt seal thickness that’s the problem? Also should I introduce a plain washer under the castle nut to improve the relationship between the nut and split pin hole?

yes the stub looks the same as i measured earlier so that looks fine. It may be worth putting the felt between 2 plates and squashing it in a vice or press to see if it gives a bit more room.Yes great forum this one

Tony