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 Post subject: Sprint rear hub removal
PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 4:42 pm 
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I've got a busted stud on the rear wheel and the garage are struggling to get the hub off to replace. Any tricks or tips on how it's nb est done.
Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 5:53 pm 
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Remove it with the halfshaft and then use a big press; they normally go with a bang!


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 6:55 pm 
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Ta, I'll pass that on.
Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 7:42 pm 
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Do you have to take the hub off to replace a rear hub stud on a sprint as on the 1500 and 1850 you can just tap out the wheel studs towards the brake back plate?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 9:56 pm 
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Do you have to take the hub off to replace a rear hub stud on a sprint as on the 1500 and 1850 you can just tap out the wheel studs towards the brake back plate?
Yes, you do.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 2:07 pm 
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Quote:
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Do you have to take the hub off to replace a rear hub stud on a sprint as on the 1500 and 1850 you can just tap out the wheel studs towards the brake back plate?
Yes, you do.
You can peel the cover on the back of the hub to remove the studs but it won't look so pretty afterwards.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2019 6:43 am 
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Quote:

You can peel the cover on the back of the hub to remove the studs but it won't look so pretty afterwards.
I thought it was recommended to press the studs in, not pull them in with nuts, etc., like with Fords. Wouldn't that be hard in situ?
Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:56 pm 
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Unfortunately the guy who owns the garage doesn't want to pull the shaft and press the hub off, he wants to use a hub puller. Does anybody have a recommendation for a tool? I see there are Herald/Spitfire ones, and I know that's the same PCD. Would one of them fit, or is there another option?
Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2019 9:43 pm 
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Churchill made one up to the job, but with a conventional 3 leg he'd be wasting his time...and most likely the puller too!


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2019 9:47 pm 
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Previous discussion:

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... el#p267821


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 14, 2019 4:39 am 
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If he uses a non-churchill type hub puller I would say he will 99% scarp the hub (though not admit to it)
Trouble is that with the churchill puller you need all 4 studs in position. Catch 22.

Take it somewhere else?

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Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 14, 2019 8:32 am 
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Quote:

Take it somewhere else?
Second that.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 14, 2019 9:44 am 
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Quote:
Quote:

Take it somewhere else?
Second that.
Yeah, I guess. Thing is, the garage is opposite work. So it's real convenient for smaller jobs can be done in a day. And he's done me more than a few favours with stuff no one else would do.

I wondered about one of these with three legs on the smaller diameter ring: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-wh ... 1438.l2649. Should be better than a 3 leg puller that latches behind the hub flange.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 14, 2019 9:53 am 
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Quote:
The suggestion there is that the Herald one needs modifying. At £100 (inc p&p and some other bits) I'm not sure its a cost effective option compared to pulling the halfshaft. But might it fit with a wheel spacer on the hub first, and if so, how thick?
Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 14, 2019 11:24 am 
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Quote:
Remove it with the halfshaft and then use a big press; they normally go with a bang!
This is the way I've always done mine. I can't see you doing it any other way unless you have the correct puller.

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. :boggle2:

2007 Porsche Boxster S


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Grammar:
The difference between knowing your sh#t and knowing you're sh#t.

Schedule: Pronounced "Shedule" not "Scedule"!


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