The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hi are the only differences the engine mount pads? Are they the same where the box goes through the tunnel?. I'm looking at modding for better engine mounts and if the 1850 is the same except for the mounts it'll be easier to adapt for different mounts and saves wasting a sprint one

Cheers

Tony

If you are looking for a replacement mount for the 1300, 1500 and 1850 engines which use mount part number 149934. I have been looking into this problem and am currently considering using a Land Rover mount part NRC2053 but I have to obtain some 15mm thick metal to make up the adaptor plates. The adaptor plate is needed to make up the thickness of the original mount and to provide a means of fixing the mount to the existing engine mounting pads.The Land Rover mount comes with mounting studs my idea is to drill and tap a hole in the 15mm metal plate so that the mount can be attached to the plate and I might also use some resin to bond the two items.

Land Rover also do an large diameter mount part number ANR1808 but I do not think that is suitable.

I hope this gives you another option to consider.

1850 engine mounts may look the same as the 1500 type,
but they are in fact much softer.




Ian.

Im looking to fabricate a bracket that hold a round mount with studs/bolts facing up and down so the weight is sat on it not being dragged downwards like the sprint ones.

Cheers

Tony

So, anyone know if they are the same except the mounting bit?

Cheers

Tony

Tony

See attached https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... =4&t=15510

Paul

Thanks Paul thats what I wanted to see

Cheers

Tony

tony g wrote: ↑Tue Sep 17, 2019 7:54 pm So, anyone know if they are the same except the mounting bit?

Cheers

Tony

In a word YES!

Sorry, been away for a week or would have replied sooner!

If you look at a Sprint frame, you can see the mount holes where the 1850 mounts would fit!

Steve

Whilst on the subject, i've this little quandary to add to the mix!

The following pix are of a Sprint auto that is in my care ATM for recomissioning and I noticed how skew-wiff the engine and box are!

The car was last on the road circa 2006 and was previously cared for by Jonners.







The prop is no longer central in the tunnel, the exhaust downpipe is unconscionably close to the floor, yet the o/s mount, whilst partially split and dropped a bit, is still well clear of the rack. The error in alignment is, I think, sufficient to significantly impact dipstick readings!

The problem SEEMS to be that the n/s mount is just too thick for the job! And that, though I can and will replace the o/s mount, I don't think it will solve THIS much of a list! I've checked the mount plates for correct positioning and all is as it should be there and I do have in stock, a very good, used, original metalastic type mount which I can try on the n/s, otherwise i'm out of ideas! Any suggestions?

Steve

What difference does removing the engine steady make?



Ian

sprint95m wrote: ↑Sat Sep 21, 2019 1:55 pm What difference does removing the engine steady make?
Ian

A good point, Ian and one I thought of AFTER i'd typed the post last night! In my defence, I WAS half asleep, having just driven home from my holidays! But it IS possible the steady bar could pull the engine to the n/s if incorrectly adjusted. Something i'll have to look into on Monday when I go back!

It's possible what I have here is a sort of "event cascade" where several factors combine to produce the result and there is no single cause.

Steve