The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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 Post subject: Re: Dolomite Nismo
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 5:43 pm 
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Location: Hampshire
On to the boot floor, using..... yep you guessed it the club repair panels! :lol:

I have removed all of the underseal and drilled out the spot welds, I wont use the whole panel, just the bits I need.

Image

The wheelarch and rear wing have gone as well so I'll remove everything and work from the inside out to repair.

Image

I just cut off what I needed and offered it up ready to weld into place.

Image

Then seam welded along the join. Once ground back you wont see this.

Image

Image


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 Post subject: Re: Dolomite Nismo
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 6:48 pm 
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Location: Harrow Middlesex
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Great stuff James.. that new toy of yours is really helping you here.

Do you use 0.6 or 0.8mm welding wire out of interest?

Kind Regards

MC
0.8mm Matt, 0.6 just isnt worth bothering with!
Quote:
James

nice work be ,interested in how you repair the rear arches mines gone it the same places also boot floor as well gone

when you fit the club sills cant see from your pictures , do you cut the bottom edge where it folds back on its self

Dave
Which edge is that Dave? At the top? No, I have used a bead roller to create an edge, lap jointed it to the top then ground back the welds to create an invisible seam.
James

the bottom edge of the outter sill folds back over its self and covers the inner sill thats the bit , do you cut that returned edge

Dave


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 Post subject: Re: Dolomite Nismo
PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2020 12:42 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 4:12 pm
Posts: 5717
Location: Highley, Shropshire
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the bottom edge of the outter sill folds back over its self and covers the inner sill thats the bit , do you cut that returned edge

Dave[/color]
I don't know about James, but I cut it off because a) it's not original and b) it's a rust trap if it's folded up, there are SUPPOSED to be drains in the sill, I always make sure to make some. That's not possible if the lip is folded over.

Steve

_________________
2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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 Post subject: Re: Dolomite Nismo
PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 7:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2016 9:53 pm
Posts: 948
Location: Harrow Middlesex
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the bottom edge of the outter sill folds back over its self and covers the inner sill thats the bit , do you cut that returned edge

Dave[/color]
I don't know about James, but I cut it off because a) it's not original and b) it's a rust trap if it's folded up, there are SUPPOSED to be drains in the sill, I always make sure to make some. That's not possible if the lip is folded over.

Steve
Steve

Thanks , didnt know the sill was meant to have drain holes

Dave


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 Post subject: Re: Dolomite Nismo
PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 7:24 pm 
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TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 4:12 pm
Posts: 5717
Location: Highley, Shropshire
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:


the bottom edge of the outter sill folds back over its self and covers the inner sill thats the bit , do you cut that returned edge

Dave[/color]
I don't know about James, but I cut it off because a) it's not original and b) it's a rust trap if it's folded up, there are SUPPOSED to be drains in the sill, I always make sure to make some. That's not possible if the lip is folded over.

Steve
Steve

Thanks , didnt know the sill was meant to have drain holes

Dave
If you look at a rare original, you will see there are drains formed in the inner sill, at least 3 of them, maybe more.

This often disappears, along with the lower sill edge when the tinworms bite and the club undersill panel, lovely as it is, doesnt include them. So I make them in the outer sill at the clamping on stage (front, center and rear) by clamping a large screwdriver blade between the outer and inner sill with a panel clamp. Works for me, the drains are regular in shape (so don't look out of place) and slightly larger and more efficient than the originals. Lets out accumulated water AND excess waxoil/whatever you use, so the sills don't disintegrate from tinworm 2 years later!

Steve

_________________
2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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 Post subject: Re: Dolomite Nismo
PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 7:41 pm 
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TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 4:12 pm
Posts: 5717
Location: Highley, Shropshire
Here's a pic of my own unwelded original sill.


Image

Looks like 2 holes together, but it's an inch long slot, half gummed up with Ziebart.

Not easy to see from this angle but there is also a deliberate "low spot" in the outer sill coinciding with the drain, so it gets the last drop of water out (in theory at least!) There are indeed 3 of these each side.

Steve

_________________
2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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 Post subject: Re: Dolomite Nismo
PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2016 9:53 pm
Posts: 948
Location: Harrow Middlesex
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I don't know about James, but I cut it off because a) it's not original and b) it's a rust trap if it's folded up, there are SUPPOSED to be drains in the sill, I always make sure to make some. That's not possible if the lip is folded over.

Steve
Steve

Thanks , didnt know the sill was meant to have drain holes

Dave
If you look at a rare original, you will see there are drains formed in the inner sill, at least 3 of them, maybe more.

This often disappears, along with the lower sill edge when the tinworms bite and the club undersill panel, lovely as it is, doesnt include them. So I make them in the outer sill at the clamping on stage (front, center and rear) by clamping a large screwdriver blade between the outer and inner sill with a panel clamp. Works for me, the drains are regular in shape (so don't look out of place) and slightly larger and more efficient than the originals. Lets out accumulated water AND excess waxoil/whatever you use, so the sills don't disintegrate from tinworm 2 years later!

Steve
Steve

Ill have go at some drain holes ,im going to fit the Stag stainless cill trims to my dolomite , i found out today which did surprised me from bumper to bumper the Stag is longer ,but from cill end to cill end the dolomite is longer meaning the Stag cill trims are about 2 -3 inches short

Dave


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 Post subject: Re: Dolomite Nismo
PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 9:06 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2018 9:35 pm
Posts: 7
Absolutely brilliant set of photos to help a complete novice like me before setting about repairing/replacing sills...

I have read somewhere that the club outer sills are straight, whereas the originals have a slight curve... is that right and if so, how did you allow for that?

I know that it’s necessary to brace the shell before cutting out the old sill... do I need to do that before cutting out the outer sill (so I can see what I need to replace?

Can I also ask where.s the best place to fix the brace (welded?).

Brilliant post... thanks
Akan


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 Post subject: Re: Dolomite Nismo
PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 10:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 11:27 am
Posts: 1837
Location: Hampshire
Thanks!

Yes the orginal steel pressings have a curved profile on the top lip of the sill, I cut slots in this to allow it to curve and match the profile of the original.

If you are just replacing the outer skin, reinforcer and lower inner section it isnt really necessary to brace the shell. Axle stands under the subframe and rear axle and just dont move the car! I braced the door gap on Richards just where I cut off the top of the sill section to gain access to the reinforcer. I was worried about the inner section folding in on itself where I had cut the lower section away. I would brace the doors as well as at the base of the B post to B post across each other and bottom of b post to top of opposite B post creating an X if I have to cut a lot of the floor or inner sill out, but I haven't had one that bad yet! Although, I know Alun has one lined up for me! :lol:

Sorry Steve and Dave, I didnt reply!

I dont cut off the lip, I bend it down slightly to create a sort of drip rail plus I use it to line up the sill! My concern with cutting off the lip is that water will travel up into the seam through capillary action, which is probably the cause of rust here anyway! Plus its stronger with that lip. I do put three drain holes in, but drill a hole in the corner of the inner sill then bang the lip over t make it look like the original, you just cant see them well with the lip on! The seam does get a thin bead of seam sealer and as we all know, the sills should still be protected internally with a good cavity wax. 8)


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 Post subject: Re: Dolomite Nismo
PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 9:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2018 9:35 pm
Posts: 7
Thanks for the quick reply... Much appreciated.

Alan


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