Dolomite Nismo

[James467]

Uh oh, you'd better get the shell over here Richard!

[new to this]

Richard

Before i upgraded my front hubs to Stag ones , i had those hub spacers fitted on my sprint but i found i couldnt set them up properly even using all the shims supplied

Dave

[geeksteve]

I bought 2 sets of mounts and cut the studs off one set, allowing me to get the engine in exactly the right place before drilling the hole in the subframe and then swapping to the other set with the studs.

That's genius. Should see the 'slotted holes' I have on my engine-swapped car as a result of doing it the hard way. Best mate still hasn't let me forget about them..

Looks like a fun project!

Steve

[SprintV8]

Richard

Before i upgraded my front hubs to Stag ones , i had those hub spacers fitted on my sprint but i found i couldnt set them up properly even using all the shims supplied

Dave

Are you using Sprint or Stag stub axle pins.

[new to this]

Richard

Before i upgraded my front hubs to Stag ones , i had those hub spacers fitted on my sprint but i found i couldnt set them up properly even using all the shims supplied

Dave

Are you using Sprint or Stag stub axle pins.

Phil

The guy i bought mine from he made them , think he got the size wrong , i know he does them for the Stag was well , mine were for Dolomite and Dolomite stub axle ,ive not fitted any to the Stag setup on my Dolomite maybe in the future

Dave[ /color]

[SprintV8]

The pins are different lengths between the two.
The Stag pins are longer.
I’m not sure if the wheel bearings are the same as I Just swapped it all over.

So possibly have got the wrong size.

[new to this]

The pins are different lengths between the two.
The Stag pins are longer.
I’m not sure if the wheel bearings are the same as I Just swapped it all over.

So possibly have got the wrong size.

Phil

No when i did the hub bearing spacer mod on the sprint every thing was standard,even bought new wheel bearings timkin , thats why i think the hub spacers were machine wrong,at the time they didnt do the spacer kit for the dolomite , he made them for me

Dave

[James467]

So the car is now with me for some bodywork, cleaning, modifications, exhaust!

The shell is great, just needs a few rust repairs, sills boot floor, front panel, wing repairs. Nothing major, then a few modifications for Richard.

On the face of it the sills looked ok, especially the passenger side, but after cutting them off the extend of the rot could be seen.







I was hoping that the front end of the sill would be ok but I'm not that lucky!!



I just used my usual process for dealing with sills, strip everything off and start at the back working out and reconstructing. The only difference is that I had to remove a section of the tread plate upper outer to do a proper repair on the inner reinforcer.













New jacking points





New reinforcer







Outer welded back on



Club sill fitted







New front sill made





Linished, rust protected and seam sealed





Front and rears repaired







Done, on to the other side.

[new to this]

James

Youve done a few sills now is it common for the sill step to rust through , both mine have rusted just in front of the rear doors
when you replace the inner sill at the bottom are the club inner sills have a right angle bend, or are you putting that in, the middle part of the sill why do you fit a right angle to them and not weld straight to the bottom edge

thanks Dave

[James467]

James

Youve done a few sills now is it common for the sill step to rust through , both mine have rusted just in front of the rear doors
when you replace the inner sill at the bottom are the club inner sills have a right angle bend, or are you putting that in, the middle part of the sill why do you fit a right angle to them and not weld straight to the bottom edge

thanks Dave

Sorry Dave, I wasn't ignoring you, just forgot you replied!

is it common for the sill step to rust through , both mine have rusted just in front of the rear doors

I havent seen many but the other side of Nina had done the same on the inside of the bottom curvey bit.

when you replace the inner sill at the bottom are the club inner sills have a right angle bend, or are you putting that in, the middle part of the sill why do you fit a right angle to them and not weld straight to the bottom edge

Julian asked me pretty much the same question, does this help?

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 45#p329649

[James467]

On to the other sill, this side was bad at the rear as well as missing the front jacking point.





This was all that was left of the rear section and jacking point!



A standard repair, including some repairs to the trailing arm mount behind plus new jacking points and lower sill section.









The seatbelt mounting reinforcers have been extended and attached to the lower inner sill.





The rear of the reinforcer has been repaired and angless section fitted to attach it to the inner sill.



Then I had to stop, unfortunately my welding torch burnt out! No suprise really, it's had some abuse! A new rather swish, much better one is arriving tomorrow!

[James467]

New torch and new return lead arrived so I could finish off the club sills, sorry about the second photo I keep forgetting to take pics!





On to the inner front valence so I could get the shell up onto the rotisserie.

The outer was removed to give me access to the inner, also so I can repair the outer later on



It has the usual rust!



Using the club repair panels I cut off the ends and treated all of the surface rust



Test fitted the panels, the silver paint is weld through zinc rich primer.



And with the click of a finger they are on!







A coat of Upols finest zinc primer and some stonechip later and the club inner valence panels are fitted! This is one of those really satisfying jobs, the old panel was a bit of a state and now thanks to the hard work of Alun getting these panels made it looks new.



On to the rotisserie we go!





On its side set to 45 degrees gives me perfect access to the inner rear wheelarch!









On to the last of the rust repair jobs, next is to repair the boot floor with a club repair panel

[Matt Cotton]

Great stuff James.. that new toy of yours is really helping you here.

Do you use 0.6 or 0.8mm welding wire out of interest?

Kind Regards

MC

[new to this]

James

nice work be ,interested in how you repair the rear arches mines gone it the same places also boot floor as well gone

when you fit the club sills cant see from your pictures , do you cut the bottom edge where it folds back on its self

Dave

[James467]

Great stuff James.. that new toy of yours is really helping you here.

Do you use 0.6 or 0.8mm welding wire out of interest?

Kind Regards

MC

0.8mm Matt, 0.6 just isnt worth bothering with!

James

nice work be ,interested in how you repair the rear arches mines gone it the same places also boot floor as well gone

when you fit the club sills cant see from your pictures , do you cut the bottom edge where it folds back on its self

Dave

Which edge is that Dave? At the top? No, I have used a bead roller to create an edge, lap jointed it to the top then ground back the welds to create an invisible seam.