Another Nissan turbo project.

[Carledo]

I had the Omega's pipe, part flexi, part steel 6mm tube, included with the gearbox. This of course came with a metric male union into the master, which I carefully cut the flare off and subbed the UNF male union, drilled slightly from 1/4" to 6mm, from the Toledo's original hose then reflared the end.

Twas just a few minutes work, but thinking about it, only made possible by the fact that my super duper (and horrifically expensive when bought) Pickavent pipe flaring tool covers everything from ordinary 3/16" brake pipe up to 10mm Diesel injector pipe, including 1/4" and 6mm on the way.

If you don't have such a tool, or access to one, I can probably make you an adaptor pipe to whatever length and fittings you'd like. I even carry 6mm copper pipe in stock, a refugee from my LPG fitting days.

Steve

[GlenM]

Richard,

I suppose the obvious thing is to wait and see if your master cylinder does the job. Was your car a 1300, or 1500?

Steve,

I guess I might be able modify the original 1500 pipe and at least try the master cylinder. I do have brake pipe flaring kit but useful to know that you could make an adaptor, if needed.

Glen.

[new to this]

Make your clutch hose using stainless hose and AN4 fittings that way you can mix imperial with metric,go on Car Builder Solutions

[GlenM]

Make your clutch hose using stainless hose and AN4 fittings that way you can mix imperial with metric,go on Car Builder Solutions

Dave,

Thanks for that suggestion. I have just watched their Youtube video on how to make the pipes and it looks pretty straightforward, just like a plumbing fitting, which I am very familiar with. Also, it looks like £20 would get a metre of pipe and a couple of suitable fittings, so not at all dear.

Glen.

[GlenM]

I managed to get the gearbox crossmember made up yesterday.

I cut the ends of the TX1 crossmember and made up some new ends to pick up the standard pairs of crossmember holes at the sides of the tunnel opening.

This is the nearside end, which I wanted to step back enough to leave room for the exhaust to sit in beside the chassis rail, so I gusseted it with curved bracing pieces.







And this is the smaller offside end welded into place.



This is it bolted up into place.



With a good clearance left next to the chassis rail.



Which the 2 1/2" stainless pipe will run through nicely (once the brake and fuel lines have been re-routed).





Will start figuring out the exhaust next, then mounting the intercooler and radiator.

[GlenM]

Have got a stainless performance elbow for the turbo, a couple of flanges and a selection of 2 1/2" bends to offer up on the car.

[GlenM]

Well that didn't go to plan. The compressor housing of the hybrid turbo fouls the standard exhaust manifold. I was contemplating fitting a stainless tubular manifold anyway, so that's what I will have to do, as it should allow more clearance.

[GlenM]

Well, having looked at the turbo clearance from above today, rather than underneath, it was just the outlet flange of the turbo that was fouling the manifold. I undid the four bolts and 'clocked' the compressor housing slightly.

It's in place now.





Tried the new elbow on too. It just clears the chassis but will try cutting the flange off and repositioning it to get a slightly better angle for the downpipe.



Also took the rear shocks out and raised the rear axle as much as possible to double check the required prop-shaft length. It was only 9mm shorter on full suspension compression but best to be sure!

[Carledo]

I take it you will be rerouting that fuel pipe or you'll have a "Smokey Yunick Hot Vapour engine! Might be an idea to heatshield that N/S/F brake pipe too, it's gonna get mighty hot in that corner of the bulkhead!

Steve

[GlenM]

I take it you will be rerouting that fuel pipe or you'll have a "Smokey Yunick Hot Vapour engine! Might be an idea to heatshield that N/S/F brake pipe too, it's gonna get mighty hot in that corner of the bulkhead!

Steve

Steve,

Yes, the fuel pipe will have to be re-routed and the brake pipe to the rear brakes, as they both go along the chassis rail right next to the down-pipe as well. A heat shield on the other brake pipe might well be a good idea too.

Glen.

[Carledo]

I take it you will be rerouting that fuel pipe or you'll have a "Smokey Yunick Hot Vapour engine! Might be an idea to heatshield that N/S/F brake pipe too, it's gonna get mighty hot in that corner of the bulkhead!

Steve

Steve,

Yes, the fuel pipe will have to be re-routed and the brake pipe to the rear brakes, as they both go along the chassis rail right next to the down-pipe as well. A heat shield on the other brake pipe might well be a good idea too.

Glen.

I can make you a front-to-rear front section brake pipe the right length for running down the o/s chassis leg instead if you'd like one. Or, if you have your own flaring tool, the (cutting) length is 1400mm for single circuit or 1312mm for dual.

Steve

[GlenM]

Steve,

I do have my own flaring tool but the measurements are useful. Thank you.

Glen.

[GlenM]

Well, getting the engine more level in the car has had the knock-on effect of causing clearance problems between the waste-gate actuator and the n/s chassis rail. There is just no way it is going to fit.







The options now are: -

Buy a tubular manifold, which retains the turbo in the stock position but has a connection for an external waste-gate. This means I can use the stainless elbow that I have just bought and the braided turbo line kit that I have had for a while.

Or, buy a top mount manifold. Easier with the turbo, as it can retain the stock waste-gate but it does mean a more complicated down-pipe and new turbo lines.

I prefer the second option at the moment.

[GlenM]

The prop-shaft came back last week, so I got it offered into place at the weekend.





The suspension is on full drop here on the standard shocks, so the gap at the gearbox end should close up a bit when the weight is on the car with the GAZ shocks fitted. The shaft seems to be in further than the slight wear mark caused by the output shaft seal in it's previous application, so that's good.

I have ordered a top mount exhaust manifold but the guy making it is between workshops at the moment, so that could be a few weeks off yet. Will try fitting up the intercooler next but have just tested positive for COVID, so in isolation for a few days now. Unfortunately I feel too rough to isolate in the garage!

[Bish]

Unfortunately I feel too rough to isolate in the garage!

Sorry to hear that your isolating Glen. I’ve just done the fifth day of isolation myself. BORED.

Get well soon.