The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Has anybody got any tips in releasing the bottom suspension ball joint.

I need to change the rubber boot but ca't seem to budge it after using several ball joint release tools or is it just a matter of "hit it harder"... so to speak?

You know that trick they use on car shows on the telly? Hit it with a hammer both sides simultaneously, which never works. I got both sides out using that, it only took a couple of blows.

If you're replacing the ball joint anyway, ball joint release tool, a wedge shaped one normally works. If it is really welded in there, heat is your friend. Get it cherry red with a blow torch and then give it another go. However I don't know if the ball would survive being heated, I've done that ones on other cars that were really stuck and I was going to replace the suspension anyway.

If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer!

Steve

50 years in the trade this September and i've never had to cook a balljoint yet! But I did strip the thread on a brand new Snap On scissor type splitter trying to release a Cavalier track rod end!

If the gaiter is scrap, a fork splitter is probably best, 2 hammers is unweildy, I usually just use one big one and take my aggressions out safely!

Carledo wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 11:09 pm If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer!

Steve

50 years in the trade this September and i've never had to cook a balljoint yet! But I did strip the thread on a brand new Snap On scissor type splitter trying to release a Cavalier track rod end!

If the gaiter is scrap, a fork splitter is probably best, 2 hammers is unweildy, I usually just use one big one and take my aggressions out safely!

The one we had to use heat on was the ball joint on a front suspension arm on a Rover 75, the one that goes in the front subframe. Without a ramp you can't get a proper swing at it and it was properly welded in. Even dropping the whole weight of the car on it wouldn't shift it. In the end we resorted to heat but even then we had to get it properly hot before it would move.

Another vote for bigger hammer. I never had any luck with ball joint splitters or heat or two hammers.... just a well aimed good quality hammer

Tony.

cleverusername wrote: ↑Sat Apr 25, 2020 11:03 am

Carledo wrote: ↑Fri Apr 24, 2020 11:09 pm If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer!

Steve

50 years in the trade this September and i've never had to cook a balljoint yet! But I did strip the thread on a brand new Snap On scissor type splitter trying to release a Cavalier track rod end!

If the gaiter is scrap, a fork splitter is probably best, 2 hammers is unweildy, I usually just use one big one and take my aggressions out safely!

The one we had to use heat on was the ball joint on a front suspension arm on a Rover 75, the one that goes in the front subframe. Without a ramp you can't get a proper swing at it and it was properly welded in. Even dropping the whole weight of the car on it wouldn't shift it. In the end we resorted to heat but even then we had to get it properly hot before it would move.

Yes I know that one! That Rover 75 one and the BMW that it's derived from, are probably the toughest balljoint out there to split. A combination of inaccessibility and the 6" long ball pin, make it a bit of a be-atch! I have a 24" long fork splitter with extra wide forks (think it's a truck tool) that usually makes short work of them when combined with a long handled 4lb lump hammer!

The Cavalier (and all FWD Vauxhalls of that era) TRE is a special problem because the arm it goes into is pressed steel not cast. Hit it with a big hammer and all you get is a dent!

Steve

Success... just needed a bigger hammer with a wedge removal tool

All done and back together now...

Thanks for your help.....