The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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 Post subject: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite
PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 10:55 am 
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Just thought I’d restart this thread as the last one was me talking nonsense for 9 straight pages 😆😆

But first, a littl back ground on my car. It's a 1500TC and had it for just over two years, I bought it from someone in rugby for the small sum of £380. It had a blown head gasket and a horrible mat black and grey paint job, which was half primer grey and the other half paint brushes matte black. It was kind of a restoration project just getting it road worthy and looking ok. Me and my dad spent a few months getting the engine apart to replace all the bearings and seals which wasn't too hard compared to the next 4 months doing all the body work and interior.

The body work sanding was done by hand, by me, so it took about two months of work to sand off the black paint and to etch the primer that was exposed. My dad had some gear that he used to spray his cars when he restored his cars so he put both the primer coat and the colour layer. the colour I wanted the car was signal red as I thought it was a deep red and looked quite nice but the colour I ended up with was a very bright red, with a black roof as I didn't want to fit a vynle roof cover. It was a nice little motor, ran smooth when off choke and was roomy, but since owning it it's been through 3 head gaskets, 3!!

So after a year, I got into a small accident and crushed the nose so I took it off the road and wanted to do more than just fix the body work and I heard that an MX5 engine near enough drops in and was thinking it would be an easy way to make more power and increase reliability.

Then I found out about the Rocketer MX5 with a Jag V6 swapped into it. Thought this would be a great idea. I bought a 99’ Jaguar S Type 3.0 with a Manual for £550, ripped the engine and gearbox out and set about swapping it in. First issue is the intake manifold sits proud of the front of the engine by about 150mm, so I’ve taken to making an ITB manifold from old MG ZR throttle bodies as the Jenvey kits about £2k!!! Also using some cheap Boxster exhaust manifolds as the cast Jag ones were unsuitable


Due to various personal reasons, it’s taken me 4 years and the engine mounts have only just been started. I’ve pulled the dolomite engine and gearbox our and sold them, pulled the axle out and torn it down to rebuild, and bought a Ford Cortina axle to fab into the car.

With the lockdown, I’ve had chance to work on I’m the project a bit more but haven’t really progressed, mainly as the car is in a different garage to all the parts 😆😆

Currently, I’m working on attaching mounts to the ‘Tina axle so I can fit it into the car to help move it around as well as lightly restoring the front suspension by knocking all the surface rust off and paint it a nice bright pink (wife’s choice)

As well as the swap, I’ve been eyeing up ideas on how to make the dolly chassis stiffer and handle better such as subframe connectors, roll centre adjusters, solid suspension bushes, and reinforced plastic parts, all to make what I would consider the ultimate handling Dolomite

Current prediction for a V1 build is around £5k with most of that being the ECU, Wheels, Tyres, and the 6 throttle bodies for the intake. Hopefully over the years after finishing, I’m planning to rebuild an engine for more power, such as cams, maybe some head work, and some forged rods, aiming for an output of between 300/350hp naturally aspirated.


Attachments:
File comment: Jag engine in Dolomite Subframe
7E76986C-D7EE-4CBF-89E6-F9418B7D29BF.jpeg
7E76986C-D7EE-4CBF-89E6-F9418B7D29BF.jpeg [ 108.46 KiB | Viewed 126 times ]
File comment: Jag Engine on Dolomite Subframe
AF256AEB-0DEA-4E83-8318-8728CE9EBBC9.jpeg
AF256AEB-0DEA-4E83-8318-8728CE9EBBC9.jpeg [ 140.97 KiB | Viewed 126 times ]
File comment: Photo I took 4 years ago after the nose job
91974ED1-590F-4231-9E7C-DF3CDBD9D757.jpeg
91974ED1-590F-4231-9E7C-DF3CDBD9D757.jpeg [ 355.47 KiB | Viewed 126 times ]

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 11:43 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2015 11:02 am
Posts: 248
More pictures


Attachments:
File comment: Suspension half painted
01883B96-5F9E-4E25-801A-3B10A98AE1EA.jpeg
01883B96-5F9E-4E25-801A-3B10A98AE1EA.jpeg [ 254.4 KiB | Viewed 123 times ]
File comment: Axle comparison, Atlas at bottom, banjo dolomite at top
CCB05EFF-79AB-4057-B4EE-957FEB3E60B8.jpeg
CCB05EFF-79AB-4057-B4EE-957FEB3E60B8.jpeg [ 132.23 KiB | Viewed 123 times ]
File comment: Front suspension in primer
C60B3F32-5614-4BBC-83C0-BEE804C8EBD4.jpeg
C60B3F32-5614-4BBC-83C0-BEE804C8EBD4.jpeg [ 96.87 KiB | Viewed 123 times ]

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 2:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 9:57 am
Posts: 659
Location: Dorset
Be careful of these regs if you're swapping engine, box and axle - doesn't leave much wiggle room.
Quote:
DVLA uses a points system to decide what registration number to give a radically altered vehicle.

Keep the original registration number
Your vehicle must have 8 or more points from the table below if you want to keep the original registration number. 5 of these points must come from having the original or new and unmodified chassis, monocoque bodyshell or frame.

Part Points
Chassis, monocoque bodyshell (body and chassis as one unit) or frame - original or new and unmodified (direct from manufacturer) 5
Suspension (front and back) - original 2
Axles (both) - original 2
Transmission - original 2
Steering assembly - original 2
Engine - original 1
Get a ‘Q’ registration number
You will not be able to keep your vehicle’s original registration number if one of the following applies:

it has fewer than 8 points
it has a second-hand or altered chassis, monocoque bodyshell or frame
there’s evidence that 2 vehicles have been welded together to form one (ie ‘cut and shut’)
Your vehicle must pass the relevant type approval test to get a ‘Q’ prefix registration number.
So you're ok if you dont modify the suspension or steering. The rest of the points are out of the window :(


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 3:03 pm 
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Future Club member hopefully!
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Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2015 11:02 am
Posts: 248
Quote:
Be careful of these regs if you're swapping engine, box and axle - doesn't leave much wiggle room.
Quote:
DVLA uses a points system to decide what registration number to give a radically altered vehicle.

Keep the original registration number
Your vehicle must have 8 or more points from the table below if you want to keep the original registration number. 5 of these points must come from having the original or new and unmodified chassis, monocoque bodyshell or frame.

Part Points
Chassis, monocoque bodyshell (body and chassis as one unit) or frame - original or new and unmodified (direct from manufacturer) 5
Suspension (front and back) - original 2
Axles (both) - original 2
Transmission - original 2
Steering assembly - original 2
Engine - original 1
Get a ‘Q’ registration number
You will not be able to keep your vehicle’s original registration number if one of the following applies:

it has fewer than 8 points
it has a second-hand or altered chassis, monocoque bodyshell or frame
there’s evidence that 2 vehicles have been welded together to form one (ie ‘cut and shut’)
Your vehicle must pass the relevant type approval test to get a ‘Q’ prefix registration number.
So you're ok if you dont modify the suspension or steering. The rest of the points are out of the window :(
Haha yeah, was careful to read the rules, as long as the suspension is the same type (double wishbone up front, trailing arm/satchel link at the rear), as well as using the stock steering rack (no power steering for me), I keep all those points.

And the chassis is going to be un-modified, the gearbox cover need “massaged” to cover the much larger Jag box but as it’s screwed on with a rubber gasket, I wouldn’t count it as part of the chassis, much like how bolt-on-wings aren’t part of the chassis on regular cars.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2020 2:02 pm 
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Location: Dorset
That's the same logic I went with with my MX5 swapped one. Seemed to go through 2 MOTs ok so far. Gearbox tunnel on mine also had a brief meeting with a hammer/welder and nobody has said anything.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2020 7:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 4:12 pm
Posts: 5786
Location: Highley, Shropshire
You are quite OK to do whatever you want with the tunnel housing, make your own entirely if you like!

By their own logic the bolt in tunnel is NOT part of the original monocque, so is outside the regs.

Even the Carledo's tunnel took a bit of bashing and welding to conform with the Omega gearbox (A Sprint one would have been much easier, but I didn't have one at the time) And I built the Dolomega tunnel from bits of 3 different ones!

Steve

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2 door '73 Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine OWF 797M (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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