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Jag V6 swapped Dolomite http://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=36047 |
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Author: | xvivalve [ Wed May 31, 2023 11:48 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite |
Are you anticipating any conflict between the heat from the exhaust and the cooling system, or are you planning an alternative location for the radiator? |
Author: | Boost All The Dollys [ Fri Jun 02, 2023 10:06 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite |
Quote:
Looks great! Is the sump baffled at all? Did you have to move the oil pickup?
Firstly, kind of. I put a plate in and just secured it with one or two welds so it’s not like a precise slow baffle but should be enough, the oil level is quite high so I don’t envision having many issues but if I do I can pull it off and add more weld. Yes and no, I had test fitted the exhausts before I did the sump and the passenger side exhaust was hitting the pick up point so I had bent it to try and make it fit but couldn’t so bent it back to as close as original as possible so it’s pretty close but might not be exactly. Quote:
Are you anticipating any conflict between the heat from the exhaust and the cooling system, or are you planning an alternative location for the radiator?
I’m running a front mount radiator so I don’t have to do much engineering or rear rad set up, I’m not a fan of them but I understand their necessity. I’m expecting a small amount of heat buildup but mainly because I don’t want to run any bonnet vents. I was also going to fit a skid plate as a way if both protecting the sump and to strengthen the subframe, but this limits the amount of air I can evacuate from the engine bay as this is where most of the air goes from the stock triumph. If I can get away with it, I might try and run some ducting out through the wheel wells via the holes in the subframe near the steering rack.If not, I was considering adding a bonnet vent as a last resort , either a small one similar to the Porsche 911 GT3 where it’s about 2-3 inches wide right at the nose of the car so it doesn’t mess with the look of the car too much or something bigger similar to the triangle bonnet vents on UR Quattros and Mantas but running down one side of the bonnet and balancing the look out with a NACA-esque duct to feed the engine. |
Author: | Boost All The Dollys [ Wed Sep 27, 2023 2:20 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite |
September Update. Hey all who are following this, hope you’ve had a good summer and have been enjoying the weather (sarcasm, it’s currently raining cats and dogs) I’ve been spending a lot of time working on the car the last month or two so I’ve got a lot of progress to share. First big point is I’ve finally mounted the radiator! It’s taken me a while to do just because of issues with the engines position close to the anti roll bar, namely that the front of the engine and the roll bar want to occupy the same space. To remedy this, I’ve moved over to an MX5 anti roll bar so I can mount it further forward and away from the engine. Since then, I’ve got the radiator and heater core plumbed up and waiting for coolant. I’ve also mounted the centre section of my exhaust. I’m running 2 cherry bomb style silencers, an X pipe and side exit exhaust which exit just before the rear suspension mount. I didn’t have the space to go over the axle like I had planned so this will have to do. They’re cut where the sill seam is so you can’t see them when you’re stood next to the car so I think they work perfectly. I’ve also been messing around with the speedometer and made an electrical conversion so it can take the VR sensor from the gearbox and calculate speed and display it on the original Smiths dial. The odometer needs some more work to it but that’s not as critical just yet. All in all, only a handful of small jobs are keeping it from being driven, if not to an MOT just yet. |
Author: | jackharper [ Fri Sep 29, 2023 9:39 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite |
Sounds good progress. Quote: I’ve also been messing around with the speedometer and made an electrical conversion so it can take the VR sensor from the gearbox and calculate speed and display it on the original Smiths dial. The odometer needs some more work to it but that’s not as critical just yet.
How are you doing this? with another microcontroller hooked up to a motor or something? btw, are you still using a speeduino for management?
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Author: | SprintV8 [ Mon Oct 02, 2023 9:10 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite |
Quote:
Sounds good progress.
I’m using a SpeedHut Speed Box. Quote: I’ve also been messing around with the speedometer and made an electrical conversion so it can take the VR sensor from the gearbox and calculate speed and display it on the original Smiths dial. The odometer needs some more work to it but that’s not as critical just yet.
How are you doing this? with another microcontroller hooked up to a motor or something? btw, are you still using a speeduino for management?
Which basically is an electronic box that converts a GPS signal to a motor inside the Speedbox to a cable which then connects to the Original Speedo. There’s no speed sensor on the six speed RX8 box as they use the ABS sensor for speed info. Keeping one of the original features. LOL. Not cheap new but managed to find a new one on an unfinished project. |
Author: | Boost All The Dollys [ Tue Oct 03, 2023 8:59 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite |
Quote:
Sounds good progress.
I used another arduino and built an enclosure and gearbox onto the back of the speedo unit to use a servo to move the speedometer needle. A mildly better idea would be to use a regular motor and drive the speedometer and odometer (basically replacing the speedo cable) but I was thick and didn’t do that. Quote: I’ve also been messing around with the speedometer and made an electrical conversion so it can take the VR sensor from the gearbox and calculate speed and display it on the original Smiths dial. The odometer needs some more work to it but that’s not as critical just yet.
How are you doing this? with another microcontroller hooked up to a motor or something? btw, are you still using a speeduino for management?
And yes, still using the speeduino for engine management |
Author: | Boost All The Dollys [ Sat Dec 23, 2023 11:07 am ] | |||
Post subject: | Re: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite | |||
Christmas/End of Year update. Well, it feels like forever since I posted the last update but I’m getting closer and closer. Firstly, the car is now 95% mechanical done. Everything that the car needs to move and stop has been done, re-done, painted and installed. The only thing that’s left to work out is the handbrake cable but I have a plan for that. The issue I have is that the Fiesta calipers I’m using at the back don’t connect easily to the Dolomite cables and I can’t buy a set of Fiesta cables (I’ve no idea why). I think I can make the dolomite cables work with some tweaking but it’s not a super high priority for now. What I’ve been mainly working on is rust repair. Jesus Christ, the rust. I’m going to have PTSD from the amount of rust repair I’ve had to do. I knew there was some rust that needed repairing but every time I start the repair, I end up finding bad repair after bad repair, which leads me to cutting out more than I envisioned and taking far longer than I anticipated. So far, I’ve repaired the Drivers Side “A” Pillar and the front subframe mount, both were quite badly rotten. What I’ve been doing for the past week is the passenger side sill. At one point, I jacked up the car using the rear jacking point and as I lowered it down, I could hear the sound of rusty metal breaking, so my dad repaired as best he could (this was around 9 years ago). After finishing off the mechanical bits and pieces, I go through and start sorting out some of the more serious rust spots out and I have a look at that jacking point and after several years of being sat on axle stands, the rear half of the sill had started to fold in on itself. So I start cutting and find some terrible repairs that has left the sill reinforcer panel basically not attached at the bottom for the whole length of the sill . So I’ve had to cut out the entire outer sill panel (which was also very rotten along the bottom) and almost all of the lower inner sill (both rotten and badly repaired) and about an inch off the whole length of the sill reinforcer. I’ve made good progress so far on the repair; repaired most of the lower inner sill, significantly strengthened the rear jacking point with some 2mm plate, and made a repair panel for the reinforcer. This has been at least 40 hours so far and it’ll probably take another 40 to finish. Just my luck My new goal is to get it done and ready for February, which felt like a long way away when I set it last month but it’s only 5 weeks away. I’d best get a move on then Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all
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Author: | new to this [ Sat Dec 23, 2023 1:50 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite |
Ive been setting targets on mine as well inner rear arches so i can then do the outer arch When i did my rear brakes, i used the same hand brake cable as the calipers, then mounted the cable to the hand brake leaver Dave |
Author: | Boost All The Dollys [ Sun Dec 24, 2023 10:12 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite |
Quote:
Ive been setting targets on mine as well inner rear arches so i can then do the outer arch
That’s what I’ve done with the sill, basically gut everything but leave in a reference point or two and build out from there. Once you get enough done, I just removed the reference point that was rotten When i did my rear brakes, i used the same hand brake cable as the calipers, then mounted the cable to the hand brake leaver Dave I would do that but for some reason Ford or any other parts garage don’t sell the handbrake cable for the car I got the calipers off. The rear calipers are 2018+ Fiesta ST, I think the only one with rear disc brakesEither it’s not been released yet or it will never exist, I’m unsure. Also, have a strange two part cable from what I can tell. One cable that runs from the handbrake lever to **almost** the caliper that’s common across several models, and then there’s a short connector cable. I’ve managed to get the connector cable for the lower spec Fiesta that does kind of work but the spacing between the end of the wire and the bit that pushes against the caliper is too big. And I can’t connect the Dolomite cable to the Fiesta one as I’d need to make a mount and guide for it to stop it from flexing instead of pulling taut. But I’ll work it out…eventually |
Author: | new to this [ Sun Dec 24, 2023 1:23 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite |
Quote: Quote:
Ive been setting targets on mine as well inner rear arches so i can then do the outer arch
That’s what I’ve done with the sill, basically gut everything but leave in a reference point or two and build out from there. Once you get enough done, I just removed the reference point that was rotten When i did my rear brakes, i used the same hand brake cable as the calipers, then mounted the cable to the hand brake leaver Dave I would do that but for some reason Ford or any other parts garage don’t sell the handbrake cable for the car I got the calipers off. The rear calipers are 2018+ Fiesta ST, I think the only one with rear disc brakesEither it’s not been released yet or it will never exist, I’m unsure. Also, have a strange two part cable from what I can tell. One cable that runs from the handbrake lever to **almost** the caliper that’s common across several models, and then there’s a short connector cable. I’ve managed to get the connector cable for the lower spec Fiesta that does kind of work but the spacing between the end of the wire and the bit that pushes against the caliper is too big. And I can’t connect the Dolomite cable to the Fiesta one as I’d need to make a mount and guide for it to stop it from flexing instead of pulling taut. But I’ll work it out…eventually Dave |
Author: | ClassicFan [ Tue Dec 26, 2023 2:05 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Jag V6 swapped Dolomite |
Quote: I’ve made good progress so far on the repair; repaired most of the lower inner sill, significantly strengthened the rear jacking point with some 2mm plate, and made a repair panel for the reinforcer. This has been at least 40 hours so far and it’ll probably take another 40 to finish.
Chin up, just remember your looking at a saving something around £5,000 in labour costs by doing the welding work yourself...
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