The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Horn wires are purple with black trace.

The starter lead(s) runs from the battery across the back of the front subframe front crossbar, there should be 3 in all, the thick red, a white with red trace that fires the solenoid and a white/yellow which is the ballast override lead for cranking.

Temp sensor is green with blue trace.

HTH, Steve

A couple of pics showing route of cables as Steve describes. 1st with subframe removed and then with subframe fitted.

new to this wrote: ↑Fri Aug 28, 2020 8:56 pm Thanks Steve and Roger

thats a big help now on to the next bit of wiring , are there plug and sockets to the head lights inners and outers

Only on the back of the light units themselves; and then all the way back to the connector at the base of the steering column,

Thanks Dave

P.S are the main beam = blue/white ? Yes
Dip beam = blue/red ? Yes

are side lights = front parking lamps ? Yes , they seem to go under various names depending on which continent you are on.

Tony.

new to this wrote: ↑Sun Aug 30, 2020 11:24 am Is the wiring for side lights Red ? Yes. Note the error on the post VA15000 wiring diagram if you have an Automatic Sprint with the selector panel.

The main power block ( red lead and brown wires) can you get inside it need to replace my red power lead or can you buy the blocks

This power block thing can be dismantled but there is the danger of cracking the plastic due to oil , heat and old age. And that would completly ruin it. Essentially it is a big crimp connector to enable a connection to the high current connectors. I remember James on here ( James 467 ) had a mini-project on going to investigate a source or get them re-made.

Thanks Dave

Tony.

MIG Wielder wrote: ↑Sun Aug 30, 2020 2:01 pm

new to this wrote: ↑Sun Aug 30, 2020 11:24 am Is the wiring for side lights Red ? Yes. Note the error on the post VA15000 wiring diagram if you have an Automatic Sprint with the selector panel.

The main power block ( red lead and brown wires) can you get inside it need to replace my red power lead or can you buy the blocks

This power block thing can be dismantled but there is the danger of cracking the plastic due to oil , heat and old age. And that would completly ruin it. Essentially it is a big crimp connector to enable a connection to the high current connectors. I remember James on here ( James 467 ) had a mini-project on going to investigate a source or get them re-made.

Thanks Dave

Tony.

Tony

Thanks , Ill have a go at cutting one open to see if i can replace my power lead

Thanks Dave

I suggest you read my article on fitting headlight relays which was included in the latest of Dolly Mixture, issue 198 August - Sept 2020.
My cars are all 1977 or later 1500HLs so have a look at the photographs in the articles to check that you car is wired the same before you order any of the connectors. The details of the various suppliers I used is given on page 18.

new to this wrote: ↑Fri Sep 04, 2020 8:05 pm Ive got some more wires melted/burnt ,theres a plug and socket near the gearbox bellhousing Geen wires for reversing lights and white/red starter inhibitor, the green wires have melted in to the other wires think a wire must have got trapped ?

Think the ingition switch is faulty as theres no ingition supply at the fuse, are they like the Stag you can replace just the switch unit wires ?

Dave

OUCH! The bellhousing plug feeds the overdrive too via a subloom. But the most important green lead goes straight back to the fusebox, ignition live fused side. And from there (backtracking via the fuse) to the ignition switch. Now the fuse SHOULD have protected the ignition switch and wiring from damage when the short occurred (almost certainly in the o/d wiring up the gearstick) but who knows, you will have to examine it yourself and decide whether the problem goes further.

There should be 2 white wires at the unfused side of the ignition live fuse. Sometimes they are both in one tag, other times the 2 are separate (think it's a series thing) If there are 2 separate tags, pulling the smaller one off will not give you power at the tag, only the fatter one is live in from the switch, the smaller one takes current back to the voltmeter and a couple of other bits in the dash. Counterintuitive but that's how it works!

Yopu'll need to track the current all the way from the switch itself. The switch comes separate from the lock mech but includes a short loom down the column which meets the main loom at a plug to the left of the steering column near the choke.

Steve