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Keeping rot out of a new pannel
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 3:24 pm
by cleverusername
My boot lid has rot in various places, so I have bought a replacement, which apparently has never been fitted to a car. Looking at it I can believe it, there isn't any rot or any sign of rot on it. Still in the original black shipping paint. So the question is how do I stop it dissolving once it is fitted?
I can see the problem areas, it is double skinned and spot welded. So how do I stop the rot getting between the metal skins?
Re: Keeping rot out of a new pannel
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 3:44 pm
by GIX 7
Waxoyl. Lots of it. Thinned down.
Re: Keeping rot out of a new pannel
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 11:21 pm
by GlenM
Dinitrol, or Dynax both far better than Waxoyl.
Re: Keeping rot out of a new pannel
Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2020 10:49 am
by dollyman
As above Dynax s50. Waxoyl i'm afraid is now rubbish and goes hard on panel work. Ok for underneath if you want to do it every year.
Tony.
Re: Keeping rot out of a new pannel
Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2020 12:08 pm
by Manta
As above, Bilt Hamber do a cavity wax that is excellent, gets in-between the seams.
Highly recommended.
this is a clear one
https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-pr ... s/dynax-uc
or black
https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-pr ... s/dynax-ub
Re: Keeping rot out of a new pannel
Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2020 12:13 pm
by mahony
Not used bilt/Dinitrol but did use waxoyl many years back with no rust coming through on the doors and sills ( car is garaged thought ), i now just top it up with motorcycle chain oil which sticks like glue and initially gets into most of the seams
Re: Keeping rot out of a new pannel
Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2020 9:46 am
by cleverusername
I am going to sound a note of caution about dinitrol. My father used it to rust proof the sills of his Rover 75. Did it work? Nope, the backend of the offisde sill dissolved, and was reduced to nothing. To be fair it was mainly black rust, which I believe is an oxide which forms in a low oxygen environment. So the protection may have done something. I literally managed to knock over a foot of the sill away with a few gentle hits with a hammer.
The problem was getting the dinitrol off for welding was extremely difficult. Even after using a load of thinners and scrapping it out. There was still enough left to contaminate the weld pool, disrupt the weld arc and create annoying small fires when I welded in a repair section. This has made me a bit wary of cavity waxes.
Fine if they work but if they don't they are just storing up trouble for when you need to repair that part of the car.