Sprint Distributor Cap - Which One?
Posted: Fri Dec 10, 2021 12:41 am
Went for a drive today and the car had a chronic misfire across the rev range and across a range of throttle openings - tacho was fine all the time so assumed problem was on the HT side.
I took the distributor cap off and was dismayed to find a nice film of silver metal dust on the inside and all four contacts were quite burnt on the edge. The rotor arm has not been making contact so I assume the metal deposit is caused by the arcs and sparks. This was a new cap last year, along with new rotor arm and new leads and everything else on the ignition side - leads, cap and rotor arm all from the same supplier, not from the Distributor Doctor who quote "couldn't get stock of decent quality caps". The cap is taller side entry one with plug in leads. I noticed that it was poorly moulded around the 4 contacts and also that they were - or appeared to be made of aluminium and not brass. Anyway I cleaned it out and tried again. It was much improved but was still missing.
Returned home and refitted the old cap, rotor arm and leads - the shorter "original"? with screw in leads. This is well worn as the previous owner fitted electronic ignition and the rotor arm sat too high so "shaved" some of the contacts. Car now runs OK and only coughed a couple of times.
I want a new replacement as my original is not in the best shape - though works better than the "new" one. Question is what is the best cap to go for? Do I go for a new GDC134 (original type) and hope the quality is OK or is there a better alternative.
I am running with points and a condenser - they are good genuine N.O.S. Lucas orange box items and swapping them makes no difference. Hot swapping the coil makes no difference either. Leads are new with no sign of tracking and no tell tale "ticking" or visible blue streaks in the dark, so I am convinced it is the cap.
One other thing, I do not have the RTC316 spark guard - is it essential with the shorter cap?
Thanks
Roger
_________________
1975 Sprint Man O/D in Honeysuckle Yellow
1971 Stag Auto White
Too many cars, too little time!
I took the distributor cap off and was dismayed to find a nice film of silver metal dust on the inside and all four contacts were quite burnt on the edge. The rotor arm has not been making contact so I assume the metal deposit is caused by the arcs and sparks. This was a new cap last year, along with new rotor arm and new leads and everything else on the ignition side - leads, cap and rotor arm all from the same supplier, not from the Distributor Doctor who quote "couldn't get stock of decent quality caps". The cap is taller side entry one with plug in leads. I noticed that it was poorly moulded around the 4 contacts and also that they were - or appeared to be made of aluminium and not brass. Anyway I cleaned it out and tried again. It was much improved but was still missing.
Returned home and refitted the old cap, rotor arm and leads - the shorter "original"? with screw in leads. This is well worn as the previous owner fitted electronic ignition and the rotor arm sat too high so "shaved" some of the contacts. Car now runs OK and only coughed a couple of times.
I want a new replacement as my original is not in the best shape - though works better than the "new" one. Question is what is the best cap to go for? Do I go for a new GDC134 (original type) and hope the quality is OK or is there a better alternative.
I am running with points and a condenser - they are good genuine N.O.S. Lucas orange box items and swapping them makes no difference. Hot swapping the coil makes no difference either. Leads are new with no sign of tracking and no tell tale "ticking" or visible blue streaks in the dark, so I am convinced it is the cap.
One other thing, I do not have the RTC316 spark guard - is it essential with the shorter cap?
Thanks
Roger
_________________
1975 Sprint Man O/D in Honeysuckle Yellow
1971 Stag Auto White
Too many cars, too little time!