The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

AutoCad...so cumbersome

...but then I did dispense with some hidden detail and a section...

Alan,
Absolutely brilliant CAD drawing.

there is an O ring on the market with a 24mm internal Dia and a 31 mm o/d which would be suitable.

I'll look for the missing dims.

Malcolm

Fusion 360 actually.

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450

I will peel out a dizzy with adapter out of an engine next week.

There's no chance that an o ring does fit as the 123 diameter is slightly smaller than the Lucas one. I have 123 dizzies in stock and will measure as once an adapter is fitted you can't remove it anymore.

Jeroen.

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Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com

Is there enough room on the Dizzy bracket, to make it clamped to the 123 Dizzy, and then still fit in the Sprint block ?

Just caught up on the thread.

Great news we are close to getting a drawing prepared for fabrication.

Great that members will soon be able obtain a bracket and do the 123 conversion.

Cheers guys.

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Sprint, ;- DBL 532V

How do you make sure the dizzy is timed up correctly before it goes into the adapter? The adapter obviously has the usual amount of adjustment when fitted but it has to be approximately to begin with.

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Russ Cooper
Dursley
UK

That is the way that I did it using a Lucas 45D clamp (from a Dolomite 1500).
I welded on lugs which I then drilled, to use the tapped holes in the engine block.


By the way, I didn’t bother with an O-ring and it didn’t leak oil


Ian

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It's measuring, checking and marking. Engine in bdp, fit the dizzy without the adapter using some tape around to centrate and have the rotor and housing in the correct position and the green 123 light on and mark the engine bolt hole on the dizzy housing with some pemanent marker. Then you know where the slots of the adapter have to be. Be carfull to have the dizzy also at the correct hight as the orientation differs also when the dizzy is vertically moved. Mark the tape or make a temporary washer or something else that holds the dizzy at the correct height not being able to be pushed in too deep. It's even possible to use a few layers of cardboard to have a set of rings with the correct thickness the same of the adapter.

The adapter does fit directly on to the block. Here's an old pic.

Jeroen

_________________
Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com

Ian, any pictures to help those of us thinking about doing this please?

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Russ Cooper
Dursley
UK

I don’t have that car anymore and it was over 10 years ago
so I think the answer is no, sorry





Ian

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TDC Forum moderator
PLEASE help us to maintain a friendly forum,
either PM or use Report Post if you see anything you are unhappy with. Thanks.

Good afternoon, I have attached the drawings for my dizzy adaptor. I only have the top and side drawings but it should give you the dimensions you need. It bolts to the block and uses a standard dizzy bracket to hold the 123 in place. It is the single best improvement I have made, once I had played with the advance curves it felt like a different car.

I don't know how, but the machine shop made it in a mirror image. You'll see what I mean when you look at the drawings and photos. It makes no practical difference so I didn't bother having it re-manufactured. If you do make a bracket be sure to get the machine shop to drill the drive gear to accept the larger roll-pin - The drive gear appears to be made of a metal harder than Superman and my drill wouldn't touch it!

The advantages: 1) It uses the dizzy O-ring so no oil leaks 2) It can be removed if there was ever a problem with the dizzy 3) Infinitely adjustable 4) Cheap to produce

The disadvantages: 1) A little fiddly to install 2) The dizzy is held against the upward force of the drive gear by the dizzy clamp - This is the main disadvantage compared to the friction-fit design earlier in this topic. Mine has never slipped but it could 'pop-out' if it wasn't tightened correctly. 3) It must be statically timed, however the 123 has a built-in light for static timing.

******PLEASE NOTE****** I am not an engineer and this is something I created with a pen and paper in my kitchen as a DIY adaptor for my car only. I am posting the drawings to help the other club members that are creating their own brackets. If you use the drawings/dimensions you do so at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage you may cause to your Dolly, dizzy or fittings.

Cheers TFN.

Thanks for the private emails and for taking the time to dig out your drawings and for sharing your experience.

I am not sure who wants to lead this from the club in terms of getting this into production ?

It would be good to get some ideas on timing, when available etc.

Cheers.

R.

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Sprint, ;- DBL 532V

You are welcome.

I've done a little under 1000 miles with it and all seems well so far. I'm pulling the engine in late spring for some head work. I'll take the opportunity to remove the dizzy and jackshaft and check for any abnormal wear, etc. I'll post anything of note.

You are welcome.

I've done a little under 1000 miles with it and all seems well so far. I'm pulling the engine in late spring for some head work. I'll take the opportunity to remove the dizzy and jackshaft and check for any abnormal wear, etc. I'll post anything of note.