The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Apologies, this has probably been brought up before.

Was wondering, before getting my original rad re-cored, if anyone has had any success with fitting an alloy + plastic radiator from a modern car in a toledo/dolly 1300? the side mount brackets look like it'll make fitting anything non standard somewhat difficult. I'm not really after anything overkill - my engine doesn't overheat, would just like something a bit more robust than the old brass radiator. I am fitting an e-fan to my car so something with one of those as standard on with a nice shroud would be great.

Cheers!

I haven’t done this myself,
but I would consider VW Golf type radiators,

that is if you are prepared to change the thermostat housing and make a bespoke top hose.



A long time ago I fitted a Saab radiator to a Dolomite 1850.
A Saab radiator will fit a Toledo but will require bespoke hoses….
I am thinking that a VW radiator will be less difficult for an ohv engined car?



Ian

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282668440706 ... Sw4Kdeb4wL

As both inlet and outlet are on the same side it will be necessary to make a bespoke top hose,
either using the original thermostat housing combined with a 135 elbow/90 elbow/straight 32mm hose
or change to a thermostat housing facing the other way (such as TR7)


You would really be best to also employ a header tank....




Ian.

The small golf rad didn't cope with the heat when I fitted a TR7 engine. Faster you drove, hotter it got. So changed to a larger Passat version which is fine.
Odd, as the small golf rad cools my 180+bhp spitfire fine, so must be airflow issues.

The 1500 Dolomite rad is 3" deeper (taller) but otherwise the same size and fitting as the original, though you do need the 1500 lower brackets if these have been removed. Otherwise a bolt in job with something like a 20% increase in cooling capacity.

If you're dead set on a modern crossflow rad, the Saab 9-3 one fits the car without cutting anything, is easy to make brackets for and is more than capable of dealing with the cars cooling requirements, it cools my 2.2 litre Vauxhall motor perfectly, even in 30+ degree summer ambients. Though you will need a header tank, as with most modern rads.

Steve

thanks all - header tank just being unpressurised tank that sits above the height of the rad? is there a nice one that fits from another model or best to buy a generic one and mount it high up?

I am not too concerned about cooling capacity, just want something reliable as this is the third time i've had to get the soldering iron out to fix a radiator - modern rads don't seem as fragile, or maybe i've just had bad luck!

cliftyhanger wrote: ↑Wed Oct 12, 2022 6:39 pm Odd, as the small golf rad cools my 180+bhp spitfire fine, so must be airflow issues.

That is an interesting observation Clive.

From Google searches taking me to read track test articles I gather that the coolant flow rate
has a big bearing on cooling efficiency…..
A Zetec water pump performs better than a TR7 one?

The only comment I found was that a Zetec is capable of 200 litres per minute
(It was just a comment on the Sideways forum),
I didn’t try particularly hard but couldn’t find info for different engines on Google.


Ian

sprint95m wrote: ↑Wed Oct 12, 2022 10:05 pm

cliftyhanger wrote: ↑Wed Oct 12, 2022 6:39 pm Odd, as the small golf rad cools my 180+bhp spitfire fine, so must be airflow issues.

That is an interesting observation Clive.

From Google searches taking me to read track test articles I gather that the coolant flow rate
has a big bearing on cooling efficiency…..
A Zetec water pump performs better than a TR7 one?

The only comment I found was that a Zetec is capable of 200 litres per minute
(It was just a comment on the Sideways forum),
I didn’t try particularly hard but couldn’t find info for different engines on Google.


Ian

No idea about the relative flow rates, but I fully expect the ford engine to be much better than a slant 4 engine. But they can't be too bad as the Stag uses the same pump?
The VW rads have a core that is quite thin. Uprated versions are available, at a price.

As to header tank, te usual approach is to have a pressurised type, ideally with a small feed from te top of the engine, and a larger hose to teh bottom hose somewhere. That helps air to be removed from the cooling system. I use a Corsa header tank, but lots available.

jackharper wrote: ↑Wed Oct 12, 2022 9:19 pm thanks all - header tank just being unpressurised tank that sits above the height of the rad? is there a nice one that fits from another model or best to buy a generic one and mount it high up?

I am not too concerned about cooling capacity, just want something reliable as this is the third time i've had to get the soldering iron out to fix a radiator - modern rads don't seem as fragile, or maybe i've just had bad luck!

I think if you have an old radiator that is consistently springing leaks, then that is your problem, it's just an old rad that is past it's use by date!

A better used one will probably sort it, or, for a a few dollars more, get the original recored, this will probably see you out!

A header tank should be the pressurized sort, there is a Volvo one (940?) that is well thought of by the Sprint fraternity as it includes a level sensing float switch, i've had good results from the old Volvo 240 tank available from scrappies everywhere and a good fit ahead of the n/s strut tower, just where you want it on that engine.

Steve