Sprint Ignition
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Sprint Ignition
Seeking a new condenser for my Sprint to go with the points i have bought. Rimmers say they will not have any condensers in until 30 June! Any ideas?
Also, I am tempted to convert to electronic ignition (is that legit?). Can anyone advise on a good make to buy and the suppliers please.
Many thanks
Terry
Also, I am tempted to convert to electronic ignition (is that legit?). Can anyone advise on a good make to buy and the suppliers please.
Many thanks
Terry
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Re: Sprint Ignition
A sprint condensor has a longer lead but there is a similar condensor with a short lead, i just made up and extsnion lead.
I fitted a Simon BBc unit to my 1850, the Accuspark on my 1300 didnt last long.
Malcolm
I fitted a Simon BBc unit to my 1850, the Accuspark on my 1300 didnt last long.
Malcolm
1942 Willys Jeep
1960 1385 Austin Mini
1975 Dolomite Sprint Automatic
1973 Dolomite 1850 Automatic
1976 Dolomite 1300 (aka Lucky)
1960 1385 Austin Mini
1975 Dolomite Sprint Automatic
1973 Dolomite 1850 Automatic
1976 Dolomite 1300 (aka Lucky)
Re: Sprint Ignition
There is a post on here about rebuilding a 44D4 dizzy by James Shepard.
Superb job with lots of excellent pictures and he used a Lumenition Magnetronic which fits neatly inside.
This is one of his pictures
Superb job with lots of excellent pictures and he used a Lumenition Magnetronic which fits neatly inside.
This is one of his pictures
Russ Cooper
Dursley
UK
Dursley
UK
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Re: Sprint Ignition
Hi Terry.
If you decide to stick with the points and condenser, I can recommend a set from: https://www.distributordoctor.com/
Not the cheapest, but good quality and most importantly reliable.
Kind Regards
MC
If you decide to stick with the points and condenser, I can recommend a set from: https://www.distributordoctor.com/
Not the cheapest, but good quality and most importantly reliable.
Kind Regards
MC
Matt Cotton
TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
TDC/TSSC group meeting - 3rd Tuesday of the month
1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU
TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
TDC/TSSC group meeting - 3rd Tuesday of the month
1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU
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Re: Sprint Ignition
Hi
My ten pence worth...
I tried the luminition system and had mixed results with it using a std distributor, cap and SU carbs. Maybe the way it was set up.
I now have an Aldon (non vacuum) distributor using an ambassador cap, small rotor arm, the accuspark system and webers - its been in about 8 years. Starts on the button hot or cold. Haven't had any problems with it - works fine. Keep a spare system in the car just in case, wasn't particularly expensive in the grand scheme of things.
Ultimately I'd like to move to the 123 programmable distributor - price is high but from those who use it - it's fit and forget.
My ten pence worth...
I tried the luminition system and had mixed results with it using a std distributor, cap and SU carbs. Maybe the way it was set up.
I now have an Aldon (non vacuum) distributor using an ambassador cap, small rotor arm, the accuspark system and webers - its been in about 8 years. Starts on the button hot or cold. Haven't had any problems with it - works fine. Keep a spare system in the car just in case, wasn't particularly expensive in the grand scheme of things.
Ultimately I'd like to move to the 123 programmable distributor - price is high but from those who use it - it's fit and forget.
1976 Taihiti Sprint
2024 volvo XC90 T8 Hybrid
2011 Landrover Defender pickup - twisted
2023 Porsche 911 Carrera T Manual!!
2021 Toyota Yaris GR-Four
2015 Audi RS4 Avant (V8!!)
Gone but not forgotten 2008 BMW M5 (E61) Touring (George, as in Best, as it likes a Drink) to be replaced soon...... Epic epic car
2024 volvo XC90 T8 Hybrid
2011 Landrover Defender pickup - twisted
2023 Porsche 911 Carrera T Manual!!
2021 Toyota Yaris GR-Four
2015 Audi RS4 Avant (V8!!)
Gone but not forgotten 2008 BMW M5 (E61) Touring (George, as in Best, as it likes a Drink) to be replaced soon...... Epic epic car
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Re: Sprint Ignition
i would go for an Accuspark Module (or similar).
one of the first things i´m doing to all my "historic" cars since around 10-15 years is : converting the points-dizzy to electronic module.
in most cases i used accuspark, when accuspark wasnt still on the market i used petronix ignitor
its usually fit&forget...never changing points or condensators anymore..especially as nowadays quality of those items has become so bad that it´s unrealiable to drive around with them.
and i never had any failure with those hall-effect modules....
one of the first things i´m doing to all my "historic" cars since around 10-15 years is : converting the points-dizzy to electronic module.
in most cases i used accuspark, when accuspark wasnt still on the market i used petronix ignitor
its usually fit&forget...never changing points or condensators anymore..especially as nowadays quality of those items has become so bad that it´s unrealiable to drive around with them.
and i never had any failure with those hall-effect modules....
Last edited by GinettaG15 on Thu Mar 30, 2023 11:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sprint Ignition
check out my post by putting in H&H ignition. 10yearsafter.
Bob
Bob
Re: Sprint Ignition
Terry.
If money is not a problem, go for a 123.
My Sprint has been in storage since October last year. I have not started it for three months. Three turns of the key today it fired up, and idled at 800rpm like it was started and running yesterday.
The 123 is a superb bit of kit that is hard to beat.
The down side is they are pricey.
Richard.
If money is not a problem, go for a 123.
My Sprint has been in storage since October last year. I have not started it for three months. Three turns of the key today it fired up, and idled at 800rpm like it was started and running yesterday.
The 123 is a superb bit of kit that is hard to beat.
The down side is they are pricey.
Richard.
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Sprint, ;- DBL 532V
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Re: Sprint Ignition
the 123 is imo an expensive alternative for the so not talented mechanic.
its still a dizzy (for people who prefer the classic look and who demand modern electronic, this might be the "only" reason to invest):
why i say this:
its still a rotating dizzy with a cap, a finger , a sparc which has to jump from the finger to the cap.
a dizzy-less solution like Megajolt or Nodiz is the "modern" way to go:
full electronic, no rotating parts, no wear parts but you need some knowledge in fabricating and spannering (installing a trigger wheel to the crank pulley for example)
so if you have the money, if you prefer an easy installation and if you are not so talented in fabricating: go for the 123
if you a good inspannering: got for the Megajolt or Nodiz.
if you are on a tight budget: go for a simple hall-effect module.
this said: both full electronic solutions (Mega and Nodiz) can be extended by a TPS, where you than have a full 3D mapping available.
3d Ignition with the correct mapping will really change such an oldschool engine.
Ask the Ford Escort or the Kitcar-Guys....most will tell you "installing the 3D ignition transfered the engine in a way that i thought i gained 10-15BHP"
its still a dizzy (for people who prefer the classic look and who demand modern electronic, this might be the "only" reason to invest):
why i say this:
its still a rotating dizzy with a cap, a finger , a sparc which has to jump from the finger to the cap.
a dizzy-less solution like Megajolt or Nodiz is the "modern" way to go:
full electronic, no rotating parts, no wear parts but you need some knowledge in fabricating and spannering (installing a trigger wheel to the crank pulley for example)
so if you have the money, if you prefer an easy installation and if you are not so talented in fabricating: go for the 123
if you a good inspannering: got for the Megajolt or Nodiz.
if you are on a tight budget: go for a simple hall-effect module.
this said: both full electronic solutions (Mega and Nodiz) can be extended by a TPS, where you than have a full 3D mapping available.
3d Ignition with the correct mapping will really change such an oldschool engine.
Ask the Ford Escort or the Kitcar-Guys....most will tell you "installing the 3D ignition transfered the engine in a way that i thought i gained 10-15BHP"
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Re: Sprint Ignition
Many thanks for all your responses, very helpful.
I am tempted to go down the 123 Ignition route.
Cheers
Terry
I am tempted to go down the 123 Ignition route.
Cheers
Terry
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Re: Sprint Ignition
I have to correct this, true the 123 dizzy has a cap and rotor but that is where the similarity to a normal dizzy begins and ends. the 123 has no mechanical bobweight advance, the REAL bugbear of old school distributors, instead it has a fully mappable setup inside like the best Megajolt/Nodis systems.GinettaG15 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 30, 2023 11:56 am the 123 is imo an expensive alternative for the so not talented mechanic.
its still a dizzy (for people who prefer the classic look and who demand modern electronic, this might be the "only" reason to invest):
why i say this:
its still a rotating dizzy with a cap, a finger , a sparc which has to jump from the finger to the cap.
a dizzy-less solution like Megajolt or Nodiz is the "modern" way to go:
full electronic, no rotating parts, no wear parts but you need some knowledge in fabricating and spannering (installing a trigger wheel to the crank pulley for example)
so if you have the money, if you prefer an easy installation and if you are not so talented in fabricating: go for the 123
if you a good inspannering: got for the Megajolt or Nodiz.
if you are on a tight budget: go for a simple hall-effect module.
this said: both full electronic solutions (Mega and Nodiz) can be extended by a TPS, where you than have a full 3D mapping available.
3d Ignition with the correct mapping will really change such an oldschool engine.
Ask the Ford Escort or the Kitcar-Guys....most will tell you "installing the 3D ignition transfered the engine in a way that i thought i gained 10-15BHP"
Because of the design of the Sprint engine, where the jackshaft drives the distributor, which, in turn, drives the oil pump, it is impractical/impossible to delete the distributor entirely, even if (as I would) you go for a crank sensor and EDIS.
So you might as well make the most of this design oddity and use a 123!
Steve
PS We used Mahesh's 123 fitted Sprint on the 2018 RBRR, 2166 miles in 50hrs 1 min. It performed faultlessly, went like a train and averaged 43mpg over the distance. And that's still on SU carbs. Its a brilliant bit of kit and well worth the expense IMO!
Mahesh has the cleverest cost option, bluetooth connectivity that lets him tweak the map from his PHONE!
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
Re: Sprint Ignition
I drive a classic car to get away from modern electronics!
I use new old stock Lucas or Intermotor points, which can usually be bought off ebay cheaper than Rimmers new ones.
The trouble with modern points is that the plastic heel is too soft a material, meaning they wear out faster. I have done around 6000 miles on my current nos ones, and have needed to adjust them once.
Condensors, are another area where new ones are best avoided, I only use nos on them as well, and never have any issues.
Modern poor quality replacement parts, have given points, and condensors a bad name.
I use new old stock Lucas or Intermotor points, which can usually be bought off ebay cheaper than Rimmers new ones.
The trouble with modern points is that the plastic heel is too soft a material, meaning they wear out faster. I have done around 6000 miles on my current nos ones, and have needed to adjust them once.
Condensors, are another area where new ones are best avoided, I only use nos on them as well, and never have any issues.
Modern poor quality replacement parts, have given points, and condensors a bad name.
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Re: Sprint Ignition
You can fit a vacuum and a black dizzy cap to an 123 just for the looks....
An 123 is not your average conversion as Steve already mentioned. These programmable have also dual curves and ideally for my LPG conversions. One curve for LPG and one for petrol to have it not pinking.
It switches automatically with the choosen fuel.
Jeroen
An 123 is not your average conversion as Steve already mentioned. These programmable have also dual curves and ideally for my LPG conversions. One curve for LPG and one for petrol to have it not pinking.
It switches automatically with the choosen fuel.
Jeroen
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Re: Sprint Ignition
thats true...same applies at Ford´s SOHC (pinto) powered cars....you need to leave the dizzy (or some remaings) fitted to drive the oilpump. but plenty of owners still convert to 3D ignition (Megajolt or Nodiz...mappable via Smartphone as well)....i must admit that the 123 thing is more common in the Triumph and MG community, than at Ford´s.....you hardly find Escorts or Cortina´s running with 123.....as you can see from my words, i´m originally a "Ford-Man"...now in the Triumph world.Carledo wrote: ↑Thu Mar 30, 2023 8:58 pmI have to correct this, true the 123 dizzy has a cap and rotor but that is where the similarity to a normal dizzy begins and ends. the 123 has no mechanical bobweight advance, the REAL bugbear of old school distributors, instead it has a fully mappable setup inside like the best Megajolt/Nodis systems.GinettaG15 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 30, 2023 11:56 am the 123 is imo an expensive alternative for the so not talented mechanic.
its still a dizzy (for people who prefer the classic look and who demand modern electronic, this might be the "only" reason to invest):
why i say this:
its still a rotating dizzy with a cap, a finger , a sparc which has to jump from the finger to the cap.
a dizzy-less solution like Megajolt or Nodiz is the "modern" way to go:
full electronic, no rotating parts, no wear parts but you need some knowledge in fabricating and spannering (installing a trigger wheel to the crank pulley for example)
so if you have the money, if you prefer an easy installation and if you are not so talented in fabricating: go for the 123
if you a good inspannering: got for the Megajolt or Nodiz.
if you are on a tight budget: go for a simple hall-effect module.
this said: both full electronic solutions (Mega and Nodiz) can be extended by a TPS, where you than have a full 3D mapping available.
3d Ignition with the correct mapping will really change such an oldschool engine.
Ask the Ford Escort or the Kitcar-Guys....most will tell you "installing the 3D ignition transfered the engine in a way that i thought i gained 10-15BHP"
Because of the design of the Sprint engine, where the jackshaft drives the distributor, which, in turn, drives the oil pump, it is impractical/impossible to delete the distributor entirely, even if (as I would) you go for a crank sensor and EDIS.
So you might as well make the most of this design oddity and use a 123!
Steve
PS We used Mahesh's 123 fitted Sprint on the 2018 RBRR, 2166 miles in 50hrs 1 min. It performed faultlessly, went like a train and averaged 43mpg over the distance. And that's still on SU carbs. Its a brilliant bit of kit and well worth the expense IMO!
Mahesh has the cleverest cost option, bluetooth connectivity that lets him tweak the map from his PHONE!
Re: Sprint Ignition
B8WLY wrote: ↑Wed Mar 29, 2023 4:51 pm Terry.
If money is not a problem, go for a 123.
My Sprint has been in storage since October last year. I have not started it for three months. Three turns of the key today it fired up, and idled at 800rpm like it was started and running yesterday.
The 123 is a superb bit of kit that is hard to beat.
The down side is they are pricey.
Richard.
Richard, I was looking at the 123 option but the adapter problem put me off.
Yours looks very neat so how did you manage that please?
Russ
Russ Cooper
Dursley
UK
Dursley
UK