Exhaust Replacement for 1500

[DrearyNonsense]

Happy Sunday folks, it’s a sunny day and I managed to get the brown-mobile’s rusty old exhaust off yesterday, new one in the living room so this is today’s job.

I’ve got endless pictures of removal to make a step by step guide up to now but just looking for any tips and tricks for getting the new one on. I’ve got 7 steps from the Haynes manual but it surely isn’t that easy…

Just looking for any tips or tricks that you lot might have to make this easier - I’m doing it all on the road outside home with fairly basic tools. Sealant on the joints (how much?), make sure manifold is true (straight edge and sanding block?), all joints torqued up very tight - less important for the mount - most. important for the gasket so I’ll try to find a number!

Trying to prove an absolute idiot can do most of this stuff so any tips to make life easier are appreciated

Follow up question:
While I’ve removed the downpipe, it’s not exactly out of the car yet… Do we reckon that’s doable without removing carbs? I’ve not got any replacement gaskets for that so don’t really wanna remove if it can be avoided but it’s super tight under there.

[DrearyNonsense]

Follow up question:
While I’ve removed the downpipe, it’s not exactly out of the car yet… Do we reckon that’s doable without removing carbs? I’ve not got any replacement gaskets for that so don’t really wanna remove if it can be avoided but it’s super tight under there.

Update after today’s work, I think it’s pretty safe to say:

If you want to install a new front pipe on a 1979 Dolomite 1500, you’ll have to remove the carburettors.
(Haynes doesn’t actually mention this - it only goes as far as removal - not ‘removal’’?)

Hope that’s useful for someone coming here from Google’s SEO.

I’ve been doing this on a very steep kerb, drivers’ side - I’ve not got a big jack or a pit, didn’t use my axle stand. Space is pretty damn tight underneath but i doubt anything more actually gives you enough wiggle room to get the chunkier bits through the bottom.

Mine was already shot at the end so I cut it in half to get it out in two.
1. Cut where it straightens up, that just came down after taking the bracket off.
2. The two wobbly pipes -name? at the manifold have enough room towards the radiator, but too tight with carbs in the way - I just came back down below the radiator.
saveable but I’ve got new front to back anyway, that’s fine and I can see a world where getting the whole thing in or out from above would be much easier.

So it looks like I need some carb gaskets on order too?

Don’t need lots more wiggle room from above, but exhaust isn’t spaghetti, it’s damn stiff and wedging it is just metal on metal - maybe a an inch or two so hopefully it just flies in place pretty quick if i take the carbs off temporarily?

Is that going to be painful haha?

Oh - goggles, a mask and gloves - only working under there for max 5-10 mins at a time. Not pleasant…

[bazyerma]

Hi

My 1500TC has a flange break on the manifold and did not have to remove the carbs, but you are correct that the manifold and inlet are one part.

I have a parts manual that shows a bit more than Hynes if you want me to email it, PM me your address.

Regards

Barry

[DrearyNonsense]

My 1500TC has a flange break on the manifold and did not have to remove the carbs, but you are correct that the manifold and inlet are one part.

Really useful info there Barry - thank you.

Is yours single or twin carb? Might be enough room with one but I haven’t seen where they’re mounted.

Popped you a PM for that manual, could be my golden ticket!

- Alex

[bazyerma]

Hi

Minw is a 1975 1500TC, so its twin carb and RWD.

Regards

Barry