sprint starter

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sprint95m
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You need to

#1 Post by sprint95m »

use a 3/8 drive socket set. I use two long extension bars together so the ratchet is operated in the space at the front end of the subframe. (If my memory is right you use a 9/16"AF socket, preferably a deep version). The starter has three fixings (usually nuts on studs but early cars have bolts) with one of the three being extremely awkward as it is close to the block.
The car needs to be up on ramps for access from below.
Not an easy job I'm afraid :( .
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tinweevil
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#2 Post by tinweevil »

use a 3/8 drive socket set. I use two long extension bars together so the ratchet is operated in the space at the front end of the subframe.
Bot spollock on. 3/8 drive socket and a long extension, like 18 - 24" long, is what you need. 20 minute job with these, couple of hours at least without.
1978 Pageant Sprint - the rustomite, 1972 Spitfire IV - sprintfire project, 1968 Valencia GT6 II - little Blue, 1980 Vermillion 1500HL - resting. 1974 Sienna 1500TC, Mrs Weevils big brown.
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xvivalve
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#3 Post by xvivalve »

To re fix the top nut onto its stud, pack the socket with grease to hold the nut in place; you can feel it home quite easily, or if struggling, remove the blower and this enables you to get a finger in to help guide it in. I also use a 'wobble bar' style extension which I find helps; has to be 3/8 drive max in order to get the tool past everything.

Ramps not really required so long as you don't mind lying on the floor.

As Tin' says, 20 mins each way. :D
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xvivalve
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#4 Post by xvivalve »

Do you need a recon unit? Club stock can provide...
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