The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

I managed to damage a halfshaft/brake drum oil seal at a trackday earlier in the year resulting in oil contaminating my brake shoes therefore crap brakes. Jon Trackerjack came up with the mod of using a gear box oil seal in stead on the standard seals. What oil seal do I need and is it a simple job to do?



The Adam.

Dead easy for a man of your caliber.



Part No. 141756 (and they're cheaper than the proper seals).

Yeh thats the one, a proper modern seal, not leather.

I use a strip of 1/8 or 3mm (if your young) steel with a hole in it which I put through the seal and then straighten it so it hooks behind and yank the old un out.

Cheers track rivals


Ordered

I had the same problem after my first track day, fitted these about 3 years ago & many track days later they're still fine....touch wood.

Thats good to hear. The back axle I'm putting on mine will be bullet proof. I'm going to fit these oil seals and weld the centre pin to the larger pin it travels through. I done this to my last diff and it has stopped it from blowing up but as I welded it up after the pin had fallen out it had damaged the teeth on both gears resulting in one noisey diff. Lessons learnt

Is the same seal used on the other Dolomite axles?

Err how do I get the old seals out Is there any reason I can't smack it in half with a chisel?

trackerjack wrote:Yeh thats the one, a proper modern seal, not leather.

I use a strip of 1/8 or 3mm (if your young) steel with a hole in it which I put through the seal and then straighten it so it hooks behind and yank the old un out.

Didn't Work?

After a quick pre-MOT inspection today, I noticed a little too much oil seeping into the drums on the rear of my Sprint too
I was changing the cylinders anyway as I was sure the N/S was leaking (which it was).
Also, the exhaust has rubbed into the brake pipe too Better sort that out quickly

Questions are:-
When you strip the hub down to change these seals, does a lot of axle oil leak out normally?

Who would you recommend for the 141756 seals themselves? PartCo etc or is it Fitchetts/Moss/Wins only?

The C

Sprintinbits wrote:After a quick pre-MOT inspection today, I noticed a little too much oil seeping into the drums on the rear of my Sprint too
I was changing the cylinders anyway as I was sure the N/S was leaking (which it was).
Also, the exhaust has rubbed into the brake pipe too Better sort that out quickly

Questions are:-
When you strip the hub down to change these seals, does a lot of axle oil leak out normally?

Who would you recommend for the 141756 seals themselves? PartCo etc or is it Fitchetts/Moss/Wins only?

The C

No oil should not leak out unless your diff is overfilled the only reason it causes so much problems on track cars is the sheer speed causing oil surge and shaft flex.

Adam a plate with a hole in the centre that is wider than the seal a length of bar and something to slide along it to create a slide hammer put this in the seal at an angle straighten it so that you now have a secure plate behind the seal and slide whatever you have used up to the stop, and its defo coming out.
Sorry if my description is rubbish but I am no teacher

forgot to say Ive sorted mine Chiseled old seals in half and leaver them out. Axles now on the car and is so far leak free...

Ahh, cool! Thanks TJ

One further question regarding the castle nut.
Do you have to retighten it a specific way? I.e count the turns or use a torque setting?

The castellated nut needs toi be torqued to either approx 100ft-lb, and then line up the split pin hole.

The other trick we do with our race cars is to turn up a baffle from aluminim, with the outside diameter a push fit into the axle tube and a hole in the centre just large enough for the axle to pass through, file a small notch in the outside diameter to allow excess oil to drain back to the diff housing and make sure when you fit the baffle the nothc is at the bottom of the tube and this will limit the amount of oil that sloshes down the tude when cornering.

Philip