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Camber adjustment

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:45 pm
by ALGIK
Has anybody tried adjusting the camber on a dolomite by putting very thin shims behined the bottom ball joint as it bolts to the hub carrier????

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:47 pm
by 2F45T4U
Why would you need to when you can take shims out of the top arm?

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 9:35 pm
by DavePoth
Unless Daz has taken all of the shims out and wants more negative camber than that gives. I haven't done it, but I guess it should work, assuming there is enough thread spare on the relevant bolts.

Any idea of the weight distribution on ALG1K daz?

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 10:02 pm
by 2F45T4U
But as you'd be putting the camber after the ball joint that would give you odd results once you begun to turn the wheel for corners wouldnt it? As the pivot point for steering the wheels would no longer be perpendicular to the wheels roational axis...

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 10:16 pm
by DavePoth
It shouldn't, as you are adjusting the angle from the vertical of the vertical link wherever you change the camber. as long as it is outboard of the spring I don't think it could hurt.

Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 10:42 am
by Sprint36
Daz, how about putting a shim (washer) between the bottom of the mounting bracket and the subframe?

David

correct way

Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 1:11 pm
by slant4
Our friend is correct, adjust between the subframe and the upright (where the wishbone pivots are) using shims. Adjusting at the ball joint will give an undesireable effect and may result in odd stresses. Why do you need to increase the camber there ?

Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 5:48 pm
by ALGIK
One wheel has more camber than the other its only a deg but i want it spot on
Its a ball ache for me to remove the top shims thin them down refit and measure as my engine is a tighter fit than normal dolomites
I have a massive sump and its too tight to keep getting to the nuts ( IN HINSIGHT I SHOULD HAVE CAPTIVE WELDED THEM IN PLACE )
:twisted: :evil:

Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 5:49 pm
by ALGIK
2F45T4U wrote:But as you'd be putting the camber after the ball joint that would give you odd results once you begun to turn the wheel for corners wouldnt it? As the pivot point for steering the wheels would no longer be perpendicular to the wheels roational axis...
Its not a big amount of adjustment only a deg

Camber adjustment.

Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 8:53 pm
by Dolly racer 33
Daz, as was said earlier, space the track control arm from the subframe. I have---- it works.

Ken.

Re: Camber adjustment.

Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 9:16 pm
by ALGIK
Dolly racer 33 wrote:Daz, as was said earlier, space the track control arm from the subframe. I have---- it works.

Ken.
Cheers Ken
Nice to c u on board :D
I will try it this weekend
may have a run up the big long road by you.
You may hear me .

Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 11:49 pm
by Cousin Cleotis
spacers between the balljoint and upright sounds like a good idea, no need to adjust the toe each time you make a camber adjustment either, Porsche 962 lemans car uses the same method of camber adjustment.

Paul