Go on then. How do you get the downpipe off a sprint

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iandollysprint

Go on then. How do you get the downpipe off a sprint

#1 Post by iandollysprint »

Replacing my stainless steel sprint system for a 2inch rimmers sport one.

Taking the sytem apart carefully from the rear is a dodle but how on earth do you get the down pipe off the manifold?

Do you have to remove the starter to get access to the nuts? It was a bit dark in the garage last night looking from underneath but it didn't seem obvious to me.

Any help would be appreciated.

Ian
Lewis

#2 Post by Lewis »

I took the starter off mine when I took the whole manifold off......one of the bolts sheared off.

Sorry, can't remember any more than that :(
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tinweevil
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#3 Post by tinweevil »

Remove the heater fan and do it from above. Two are fairly easy of access then. You'll only get the ring end of a combination spanner in there so hope and pray they are studs and brass nuts not the steeeeeeeupid OE bolts.

Tinweevil
Last edited by tinweevil on Fri Jan 05, 2007 1:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1978 Pageant Sprint - the rustomite, 1972 Spitfire IV - sprintfire project, 1968 Valencia GT6 II - little Blue, 1980 Vermillion 1500HL - resting. 1974 Sienna 1500TC, Mrs Weevils big brown.
Jon Tilson
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Why take it off?

#4 Post by Jon Tilson »

If it is sound, has a good condition end and isnt blowing at the manifold flange just leave it in place and fit the exhaust to your downpipe with a reducer.

You wont notice any difference in power and you can leave the downpipe until it really needs changing. In the mean time give it some plus gas on the bolts...think about sourcing a spare manifold for when it has to come off.

Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
Dollyboy

#5 Post by Dollyboy »

mine had sh1tty bolts, sheared the middle one, mr speedy kindly re-helicoiled and fitted nice new studs with brass nuts... proper job!

:D

ps - mine was off the car so not sure about access. my access will possibly be more difficult when the job's done anyway, hi torque starter and weird sump with wings, meaning engine out to get starter off!
2F45T4U

#6 Post by 2F45T4U »

I spend half the time driving round with only one starter bolt, bottom one always buggers off!

Hey Kev why not use one of thos flexi drives for drills and mount the starter somewhere more convenient :lol:
Jon Tilson
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Thats why...

#7 Post by Jon Tilson »

them bolts are fitted with a plain and spring washer. They dont come off then...
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
melj

#8 Post by melj »

Good question and related to one I was going to post!

I intend to replace the downpipe on my 1500 fwd in the very near future (has to be done, pretty noisy) and was also wondering on the best methods to make sure the manifold studs don't shear off. It's extreeeemely rusty there.
The middle and rear were already replaced with s/s when I bought it, leaving me with the tricky bit!
iandollysprint

#9 Post by iandollysprint »

tinweevil wrote:Remove the heater fan and do it from above. Two are fairly easy of access then. You'll only get the ring end of a combination spanner in there so hope and pray they are studs and brass nuts not the steeeeeeeupid OE bolts.

Tinweevil
Used your method. Came off easily!
Complete Standard stainless steel exhaust is now on ebay.
Jon Tilson
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Cant find it...

#10 Post by Jon Tilson »

I could be up for that...
pm me if you like...

Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
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