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rust proofing
Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 9:58 pm
by rooboy
hi guys,am a newbie to dolomites,have just brought a 1500 dolly automatic an ebay purchase with only 35,000 miles on it mechanically good bodywork ok to good but some berk has resprayed it metro red i think it was vermillion originally but i would like some advise on waxoiling it where the hell do i start?

Re: rust proofing
Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 10:14 pm
by Nathan Mwk 627G
Welcome...
wax oil everywhere possible..
Floor
door bottoms
front nose
under front wings
box sections at the top of the innerwings
Sills
Wheelarches
rear valance
boot floor
A/B/C posts
box sections Under the floor
box section where wiper motor/washers sit
Everywhere mate.....it wont do the car any harm to pile it on
Remember if any box sections under the car look like they may need welding in the short future, hot wax oil isn't nice falling on your head!!!
Your car sounds a nice Dolly...got any photos??
Nathan
Re: rust proofing
Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 10:49 pm
by Purplebargeken
Yep, exactly what nathan says.
All the best.
Ken
Re: rust proofing
Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 4:35 pm
by Si
I think I've got a copy of the Dinitrol guide for the Dolly range - shows which holes to spray into, where to drill new holes for spraying and which holes to leave open and which to blank-off. Let me know if you want a copy and I'll scan it in and e-mail it over.
Re: rust proofing
Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 7:52 pm
by Sprintinbits
Si wrote:I think I've got a copy of the Dinitrol guide for the Dolly range - shows which holes to spray into, where to drill new holes for spraying and which holes to leave open and which to blank-off. Let me know if you want a copy and I'll scan it in and e-mail it over.
That would be incredibly useful Si!
Any chance you could post it up for all to see?
I'm sure I'm not the only one who is after this info.
It would be most splendid

Re: rust proofing
Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 10:08 pm
by rooboy
thanks si i heard that the dinitrol gear is very good any chance of location of where to spray ta richard(rooboy)
Re: rust proofing
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:10 pm
by Si
OK, lots of interest then, I'll scan it in tomorrow at work then decide what to do with it, anyone know how/if I can make it a sticky or if Andy P needs to do it as forum owner?
Re: rust proofing
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:20 pm
by Si
Forgot to say, I get most of my Dinitrol products from Rust.co.uk, and i'd recommend the proper spray kit for the cavity wax and especially for the underseal which I get in the 1litre cans (the spray head screws directly onto the top of the can). Be warned, Dinitrol ain't cheap, I originally got my cavity wax in a 5 litre can (ideal size) but they seem to be discontinued so its now done in 1 litre or 20 litre quanities, or they do cavity and undeseal waxes in aerosol cans but they always cost more but depends if you have access to a compressor.
From what i've read, Dinitrol is better than Waxoyl, I've used both in my time but now stick to Dinitrol although Waxoyl never gave any problems, I'm just going off what i've read about.
Re: rust proofing
Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 11:20 am
by SprintMWU773V
Dinitrol is good stuff as it's much better at running into seams than Waxoyl. My tip of the day is to put the can in a bucket of hot water at this time of year to make it even runnier. Bilt Hamber wax is also good and comes in 5litre cans for compressor spraying. Waxoyl is still a great product for generally spraying under arches and stuff as it's clear and doesn't tend to wash off.
Re: rust proofing
Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 10:04 pm
by jeroensprint
Hello, do you know Owatrol in the UK?
This is a transparant very thin oil product that stops rust. You can mix it with some primers. When you spray the Owatrol in your doors it runs through the spotwelds area between the frame and the skin. When you spray it inside a wheel arch after welding a new part in it runs through the tiny little holes you've missed.
I've once sprayed it on a bare metal piece on my car and after a half year of driving no rust on the metal. It is a very good sealer. My yellow sprint was painted 9 years ago with Owatrol underneath it and no blistering etc. after all these years.
10 years ago you had to buy in 25 liter can but now you can buy per litre. It is not an waxoil or bitumen but when you have a rusty spot it stops.
In Holland it is used in the boat/ship industry. It goes on the big ships before painting. It works for the salty water and does very well on cars.
I do not have any interests in the Owatrol firm Owachem so this is not a comercial. I'm using it for 15 years now with no problems.
Jeroen Rothman Holland
Re: rust proofing
Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:23 am
by zombeh
Re: rust proofing
Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:23 pm
by Si
here's some jpeg images of the dinitrol guide, if the quality's no good, let me know and I'll email the pdf file, its for the 1300, but apart from the front and rear subframes its pretty similar for the rest of the range.
cheers
Re: rust proofing
Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 10:55 am
by hutch76
Must admit its always been Waxoyl I've used. As has been said, keep the tin in a bucket of boiling water. The waxoyl then becomes very runny, and gets everywhere.
The best thing i've ever seen though, was on VUC. The original owner had his local garage coat the underside with used engine oil, every year. After a day with a pressure hose, and more than a gallon of Gunk, there was not so much as a single bit of surface rust on the underside. Never seen anything like it.