Friend in need episode 2

[2F45T4U]

First things first, as if theyd come in any other position, I checked the 205 GTI owners club forum but I cant register to it and the other GTI forum I came across was full of chavs talking about ICE and hooge alloy wheels.<br>
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My mate Richard with the low money has won the lotto, well not really but he has been given a 205GTI 1.6 with 10 months MOT for free by someone in his family!!! His plan is to sort out the little niggles and then flog it on, with the money he gets for it he wants a 1300 dolly! There is deffinatly something wrong there, A 17 year old trying to flog his GTI for a 1300 dolly! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ns/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Well anyway the little niggles are;<br>
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1) its losing water, it doesnt appear to be dripping from anywhere and its had a compression test before that showed it wasn't the head gasket BUT the test was done by a reputably shite garage and there is a smell of petrol on the oil filler cap but NO white stuff present.<br>
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2) the clutch started slipping today big time, as if you had it out half way and drove around. deffinate smell of clutch burning but the feel in the pedal stayed the same. New one needed? <br>
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Yay another car to tinker with! And its right that if you can drive a Dolomite with its prehistoric braking system and clutch that Lance Armstong would have leg ache with you can drive any euro box with ease <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Cheers, Adam

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[SprintV8]

Compression Test would not show a Head Gasket.<br>
Does it still run well.<br>
What you need is a Block Test simple little Chemical that goes into a small tube inplace of the rad cap.<br>
If the gasket is showing sing's of leaking the Chem goe's from Blue to Yellow/Green,<br>
Most Decent garages use this and some cr#p one's as well.<br>
Where this white stuff idea come's from is cr#p.<br>
If you have a low milage car that only does short journeys condensation will form around the oil filler cap and anywhere else.<br>
You need to adjust this not so hard rule to allow for milage and what use the car has had.<br>
Good thing if buying a car as most people think it's true.<br>
Clutch<br>
Any adjustment left slacken off slightly and try again,<br>
Chances are thought the box will need to come out to replace the clutch?.

<p>1980 Dolomite Sprint V8 (They laugh at me because I am different. I laugh at them because they are all the same!)<br>
1997 Vauxhall Calibra 2.0 16v SE8<br>
2003 Suzuki GSX1300R (http://www.SuzukiHayabusa.co.uk http://www.UKbusas.org)<br>
Ronnie Barker A Legend.</p><i></i>

[algtj]

Not sure if this helps as Ive no experience with the 205, but worked on a Zetec.<br>
On initial starting the engine was a little smokey like heavy condensation. When warmed up it was fine, then on standstill in traffic started running rough until away again (moisture laden exaust smoke again) Parked the car up and removed spark plugs, on looking in onto the tops of the piston, as the engine cooled water appeared. Head gasket changed.<br>
My opel Ascona kept overheating, had good flow through radiator, no mixing of oil and water changed head gasket, works a treat now.<br>
What I am trying to say is some times the obvious is negated because the symptoms are misleading as with the opel. Changed all the bloody cooling system before I got to the head gasket!!!<br>
It sounds to me your mates car is burning the water off somehow, like the zetec.

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[2F45T4U]

The idle is crap, very similar to my car if you come off the choke to quick when its cold. Up and down between 1000 and just under 500 RPM. <br>
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One other thing I forgot to mention is that the engine struggles with the electrical items on, revs up nice and quickly but didnt want to idle. When we had the heaters on full whack and the wipers on the engine cut out a few times from idle. <br>
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Cheers, Adam

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[algtj]

Shenpar motor sport Tel 01332 862901. Or Autofive on 01204 579599/ 07000 205484. Ask for Rob or Mark.<br>
These are the 205 specialists as listed in Retrocars mag.<br>
I know autofive guys are good for parts and advice as they were based in my hometown before expanding, and a few of mates have used them.

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[dollyinbits]

1) Coolant loss - Check metal coolant pipe behind shield in O/s wheelarch , these corrode & suffer from pinholes. Check alloy ( sometimes plastic ) water manifold low down on the back of the cylinder block below the exhaust manifold , again visible from under o/s arch with wheel off.<br>
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2) Clutch , as already mentioned check adjustment first , if the box needs to come out it takes about 2.5 hours to change a clutch in the workshop ( double this if working on your back in a muddy puddle etc )<br>
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3 ) Poor idle -Check & clean with carb cleaner or similar , all crankcase breather pipes , throttle body & disc , idle air valve. Check ignition timing , If all else fails adjust the stop screw on the throttle body to raise the base idle speed . Check the switch on the butterfly shaft clicks as you move on & off of idle position . If not file out the holes & re-position the switch slightly.<br>
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Andy

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[2F45T4U]

The water leak was soo rediculous, it had bene to a garage before to have them look for the leak and they couldnt find it. Had engine running for a few minutes with the bonnet open then I noticed steam coming from somewhere in the engine bay, open the throttle and a jet of water jsut came shooting out of a rubber heater pipe jsut off the thermostat <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Cheers, Adam

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[algtj]

Well, thats just saved you a head gasket!!!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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