Potential Buys
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 8:45 pm
Mig welding
save your £200 and use it to buy a welder. I taught myself. It doesn't take too long. Just practise on scrap steel for a couple of hours and read the instructions for the settings.<br>
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People only struggle to weld when they are in a hurry or not thoroughly cleaning the metal to bare clean steel first.<br>
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I will hopefully be becoming a little more active shortly and you are welcome to come along to anything Dayle perry and I organise regarding club meets.<br>
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Neil.
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People only struggle to weld when they are in a hurry or not thoroughly cleaning the metal to bare clean steel first.<br>
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I will hopefully be becoming a little more active shortly and you are welcome to come along to anything Dayle perry and I organise regarding club meets.<br>
<br>
Neil.
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mig
You don't need a 200 quid course you need practice! the mistake people make myself included is trying to weld to metal that is not sound enough. This is only possible in my exp. with gas welding but of course this causes all sorts of other problems distortion expense etc.....<br>
Make sure the parts to be welded are free from rust (BOTH of them) cut well back. Turn the gas well up, c02 is cheap if you are using a refillable bottle and you can't have too much. Spot weld are possible and useful,l drill a hole thru the top layer and then weld the circumference.<br>
Ensure a tight fit by using self tappers and or rivets. When done the weld should require a small amount of grinding back if it looks like bubble gum stuck to the metal more practice is needed..<br>
When happy spray with zinc rich primer, and or use a weld thru primer before welding.This is a primer that has a large amount of zinc and in theory allows the welding current to pass thru without burning off all the rust protection.
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Make sure the parts to be welded are free from rust (BOTH of them) cut well back. Turn the gas well up, c02 is cheap if you are using a refillable bottle and you can't have too much. Spot weld are possible and useful,l drill a hole thru the top layer and then weld the circumference.<br>
Ensure a tight fit by using self tappers and or rivets. When done the weld should require a small amount of grinding back if it looks like bubble gum stuck to the metal more practice is needed..<br>
When happy spray with zinc rich primer, and or use a weld thru primer before welding.This is a primer that has a large amount of zinc and in theory allows the welding current to pass thru without burning off all the rust protection.
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Area meet
Thanks Neil.Be nice to meet some of you gents (and ladies) in person.And see more cars 'course.<br>
The fringe benefit of going to college is I'll have a lovely workshop to practice in...!<br>
Plus I'd feel a lot better if I had some idea what I was doing.
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The fringe benefit of going to college is I'll have a lovely workshop to practice in...!<br>
Plus I'd feel a lot better if I had some idea what I was doing.
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Primer
I didn't think primer prevented rust <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START : --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ohwell.gif ALT=":"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
<p>1974 French Blue Sprint</p><i></i>
<p>1974 French Blue Sprint</p><i></i>
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 8:45 pm
welding
keep away from Oxy acetylene its out of the ark and totally unsuited to cars.<br>
A fella once said to me "oh but you can't weld rusty metal with mig welding" WHO WANTS TO WELD RUSTY METAL??<br>
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As long as you cut out the rotten stuff, then carefully prepare the new steel to a close butt joint or Joddled edge then you will have no problems. when you weld you essentially follow a pool of molten metal arount. I find that biasing your weld to the new piece and just lipping onto the existing steel and welding in short bursts gives neat results.<br>
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As others here have said. It isn't hard it just comes with practise.<br>
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get yourself a lock up and you won't look back.<br>
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Neil.<br>
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A fella once said to me "oh but you can't weld rusty metal with mig welding" WHO WANTS TO WELD RUSTY METAL??<br>
<br>
As long as you cut out the rotten stuff, then carefully prepare the new steel to a close butt joint or Joddled edge then you will have no problems. when you weld you essentially follow a pool of molten metal arount. I find that biasing your weld to the new piece and just lipping onto the existing steel and welding in short bursts gives neat results.<br>
<br>
As others here have said. It isn't hard it just comes with practise.<br>
<br>
get yourself a lock up and you won't look back.<br>
<br>
Neil.<br>
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rust
Primer doesn't stop rust,paint isn't waterproof!It acts by reducing potential difference across the steel. (Homogenous surface= no difference) Where there is a difference zinc prevents the steel vanishing by acting as a sacrifical anode,its oxidation products are also much less obvious than steel. Thats why they galvanize things.
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 8:45 pm
RUST
Nothing stops rust. As my old fella said. You dig a bit of rock out of the ground, melt it down and roll it out. and from that day on it begins the process of turning back into that little piece of rock. You only slow rust down by keeping the oxygen out. weld through etc is all a gimmick. do your welding, thoroughly clean then seal and paint. you've then done enough. all weld through does is make your welder spatter and burn your socks<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
Neil
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Neil
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Re: rust
I think that answered my question<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START >D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/grin.gif ALT=" >D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> thanks Dave
<p>1974 French Blue Sprint</p><i></i>
<p>1974 French Blue Sprint</p><i></i>
rust
you are right of course Russell, I'm interested in slowing it down long enough to see me out though!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> .<br>
I thought the idea of weldthru was to include zinc in the weld area,lots of cars rust from the area of the spot welds.There is a lot to be said for glue.
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I thought the idea of weldthru was to include zinc in the weld area,lots of cars rust from the area of the spot welds.There is a lot to be said for glue.
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 8:45 pm
GLUE.
I tried telling the MOT man that one once when trying to get a patched floorpan through the test<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Neil.<br>
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seriously. have you ever seen much rust at spot welded seems?? compare that to jacking points, sills etc.<br>
It cannot hurt, but in my experience most of it spatters off anyway. I prefer to just weld and then fill with paint, oil/ underseal mix and whatever snot is in my garage at the time.<br>
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for what its worth. when I paint underneath cars I grind to metal, brush paint with Jenolite double act,then pu7 seam seal, then spray stonechip, then etchprime, then top coat. <br>
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my cars only rust slowly (and weigh a few ton)<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
Neil.<br>
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my car
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Neil.<br>
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seriously. have you ever seen much rust at spot welded seems?? compare that to jacking points, sills etc.<br>
It cannot hurt, but in my experience most of it spatters off anyway. I prefer to just weld and then fill with paint, oil/ underseal mix and whatever snot is in my garage at the time.<br>
<br>
for what its worth. when I paint underneath cars I grind to metal, brush paint with Jenolite double act,then pu7 seam seal, then spray stonechip, then etchprime, then top coat. <br>
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my cars only rust slowly (and weigh a few ton)<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
Neil.<br>
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my car
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Oxy
Hmmm - Keep away from oxy?<br>
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I must admit that I have found oxy very good when welding up exhaust systems (a number of cars have weld up systems that are easy to do in one weld with Oxy - must be a swine with the mig torch, anyway mig is a bit naff (lots of splatter you just don't get with oxy) - wots wrong with Tig - a nice little system for about a grand that allows you to weld almost anything including aluminum (and no splatter) - pays yer money takes yer choice I spose - I would have the lot if I had the room and could afford it!<br>
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BodgerBen.
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I must admit that I have found oxy very good when welding up exhaust systems (a number of cars have weld up systems that are easy to do in one weld with Oxy - must be a swine with the mig torch, anyway mig is a bit naff (lots of splatter you just don't get with oxy) - wots wrong with Tig - a nice little system for about a grand that allows you to weld almost anything including aluminum (and no splatter) - pays yer money takes yer choice I spose - I would have the lot if I had the room and could afford it!<br>
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BodgerBen.
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