Strange brake setup

[dollysteve]

<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DOLOMITE-TWIN-CAL ... dZViewItem" target="top">Brakes</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> <br>
I bet not many people thought of doing that. It would increase unsprung weight quite dramatically. I reckon these are off the same car as the springs/dampers, it kind of re enforces that the car was probably a good un.

<p>1976 Dolomite 1850 HL<br>
1979 Dolomite 1500<br>
1989 Mini 1340 Race Car<br>
1998 Fiat Bravo TD100</p><i></i>

[LewisK]

I've seen a few local cars with this setup, and have the calipers and T-piece to do it myself...never got round to it though. <br>
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The dolly uprights are mirrored so the mounts for the caliper already exist, just remove the shield as appropriate, bolt it on, fit the T and bang.<br>
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The only reason I haven't done it yet is I haven't worked out a suitable way to locate the T piece securely, that's not too obtrusive or hard to remove. The MOT man whined at the last fella I knew who had them like this, on his Sprint, as it wasn't secure <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Oh yes, and I agree with your theory about the car being a good'un...<br>
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But I really want some shocks and springs like that <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> but not from him preferably...ho hum <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.antchip.com/sig.jpg"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
<!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>got 4 cylinders, uses 'em all....</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... >LewisK</A> at: 4/8/05 10:06 am<br></i>

[metoo40]

What about brake pedal travel?? I'm no hydraulic expert, but i think you should put a greater displacement brake master cylinder to take the extra brake fluid necessary to push the pistons. <br>
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Or just having brake pedal going all the way to the floor before anything happens ! ! ! <br>
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[dollysteve]

Interesting point. I don`t think pedal travel will be an issue but i`m not sure about the master cylinder, it should be fine as the addition of another caliper shouldn`t alter the pressure in the system, once you put your foot on the pedal each caliper will get the same pedal, it`s just going to be more fluid, it will effectively double the stopping power but also chew through a set of discs twice as quickly and it`s also twice the amount of brake pads to change, the only car I have ever worked on with a similar set up was a Rolls Royce Silver Shadow but then that weighed over 2 tonnes and had full power brakes. I can`t see much point on a dolly.

<p>1976 Dolomite 1850 HL<br>
1979 Dolomite 1500<br>
1989 Mini 1340 Race Car<br>
1998 Fiat Bravo TD100</p><i></i>

[Carl]

This mod popped up years ago. I recall reports of brake discs overheating and it seemed to die a death fairly quickly.

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[Silvery]

That was my first thought when I saw them - Plenty of pad contact, but where does all teh heat generated go? Normally it goes into the disc, then back out through the exposed parts. Can't see a lot of exposed parts there, looks like a candidate for major fade! Might work with venteds though I suppose.<br>
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I love the way T2 says dismantled, as though that's somehow better than pillaged and butchered for profit... (says me, who's thinking of chopping up a saveable 1500hl <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :o --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... rassed.gif ALT=":o"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> )

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[tinweevil]

Pedal travel would increase as twice as much fluid needs to be put into the front system before pressure can be exerted. I've no idea if it would be enough to cause a problem tho because I've no idea what volume of fluid compared to a master cylinder full you have to shift normally.<br>
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Whether heat would be a problem would depend on the thermal transfer of the pad material. If they conduct well then you have a greater heat sink available. If they conduct badly then obviously more heat is trapped in the disk. Pads clearly do conduct or we wouldn't see fluid boiling but how does that rate of conduction compare to free air radiation? If you drive hard and then park without cooling your brakes the disks warp, does anyone know if the pad area is cooling too fast or too slow to cause this?<br>
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Disk wear may be reduced because the pressure required to stop in most instances is reduced. On the other hand if average brake pressure per stop is reduced you might start to get pad glazing.<br>
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Unsprung weight could be compensated if you could get alloy copy calipers made, they are not a complex shape. Would that be cheaper than Hi-specs or similar? I've no idea.<br>
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I've considered trying this setup many times over the years but never been able to think of a conclusive argument for or against. And still can't <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START : --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ohwell.gif ALT=":"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Tinweevil

<p>1978 Dolomite Sprint<br>
1968 GT6 II<br>
1972 Spitfire IV<br>
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