rear wheel-bearing removal

[BDN712V]

I've eventually managed to remove the hub, and even managed to get the half shaft out on one side....<br>
<br>
...but I can't get the bearing to move in the slightest!!<br>
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Are they usually this difficult to shift, and does anyone have any ideas to get them off!<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
Tim

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[Dave]

They are difficult (impossible to get off by hand, even with the standard amateur type of bearing puller) Dont waste your time trying to get it off take it to an engineering shop and get them to press it off.<br>
I took mine to Vernon Brown in High Wycombe and it finally came loose at 11 tons of pressure shot of the press and went thru the corrugated asbestos roof and landed in the stream behind. Still only charged me £7 though.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[AndyThomas]

Having replaced both wheel bearings on my Toledo I agree with Dave. Don't try getting them off your self but find a garage / workshop with a hydraulic press. They need a lot of force to release.<br>
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To assist the reassembly process measure the location of the old bearing from the end of the half shalf before you remove it as the measurement in the Haynes manual can be out.

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[BDN712V]

Brute force and LOTS of stupidity got the old ones off, but went through to use a hydraulic press to put the new ones on. Was extremely easy then!!<br>
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There is a little mark on the halfshaft where the bearing sits (checked beforehand), so that wasn't a problem. However, the hardest part in it all was removing one of the hubs - I now have two knackered pullers!!<br>
<br>
Still, it now feels a lot smoother, and certainly is a lot quieter, so job's a good 'un!<br>
<br>
Tim

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[Dave]

You must have been extremly brutal or built like a gorrilla<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[BDN712V]

Errrr...no, actually!! Seeing as the old bearings were well and truly shot (extreme amounts of play) a stone chisel carefully struck with a large hammer did the trick with no damage to the half shafts (there was some precision to it) and it popped off. However, after the ease of pressing on the new bearings, I wish I'd pressed off the old ones. Could have had some fun with the roof then!!<br>
<br>
Anyway - the proof is in the smoothness and silence of the ride<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
Tim

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[george]

if you want to remove these bearings i used to and still do on some remove the outer race cut accros the bearing with an angle grinder through the hardened part this leaves the softer inner<br>
place on a vice and cut into the grove left by the grinder with a sharp chisel and bang with a good hammer blow it splits the bearing easy make sure you've got the bottom of the race on the vice as you're hitting against it and you wont damage the shaft old fords had a collar that was removed like this before you removed the bearing<br>
and be careful with grinder not to damage the shaft !!!

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[Riff Raff]

Had to replace a rear bearing on my old dolly (RIP) many years ago. Mechanic ended up using a slide hammer to get the hub and bearing apart. Seem to work well until 2 days later when happly racing around some of the country roads. Rear of the car dropped and I saw my rear wheel overtake me.<br>
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Ended up 20 foot into a corn field!<br>
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Slide hammers can damage your wheel studs!<br>
Stick with pressing or cutting - and check everything when you put it back together!

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[BDN712V]

Would definitely agree that using a hydraulic press is the easiest way, the quickest way, and the safest way... unless you destry an assy. roof!<br>
<br>
Tim

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