Suspension bush replacements
Suspension bush replacements
I'm keen to replace all the suspension bushes on my sprint with the Jigsaw poly bushes. The reality is with work, flat refurbishment and a small garage it'll be far better for me to get a garage to do the work if it is to be done this century (as much as it runs against the grain). <br>
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Does anyone have any recommendations for garages within reach of South-West London? I'd certainly like someone with knowledge and sympathy for dollys to do the work.<br>
<br>
Also how many hours would be reasonable to expect for a garage to complete the work?<br>
<br>
Cheers<br>
<br>
Clive
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<br>
Does anyone have any recommendations for garages within reach of South-West London? I'd certainly like someone with knowledge and sympathy for dollys to do the work.<br>
<br>
Also how many hours would be reasonable to expect for a garage to complete the work?<br>
<br>
Cheers<br>
<br>
Clive
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Re: Suspension bush replacements
err...Mr Tilson? Hampton?
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Re: Suspension bush replacements
time-wise quite a big job, potentially to do a full set front n rear probably a good couple of days solid IMO, but im not a mechanic so maybe quicker, maybe longer...<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
<p>project orange - slow progress<br>
project black - coming on, could be sold...<br>
project white - pimp my tolly, next year!</p><i></i>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
<p>project orange - slow progress<br>
project black - coming on, could be sold...<br>
project white - pimp my tolly, next year!</p><i></i>
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No way...
would I quote for this cos there is so much that can go wrong in terms of rusted bolts and pressing in/out old and new. The rear radius arms are known gits to do...<br>
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If it aint broke dont fix it I say....<br>
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I'm not doing much for others at the mo cos I'm back in IT and pruning my own projects. If you want I can recommend Colin at Willow Classics but I doubt he would want this kind of work either...<br>
email me off list for his number..<br>
<br>
Jonners
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If it aint broke dont fix it I say....<br>
<br>
I'm not doing much for others at the mo cos I'm back in IT and pruning my own projects. If you want I can recommend Colin at Willow Classics but I doubt he would want this kind of work either...<br>
email me off list for his number..<br>
<br>
Jonners
<p></p><i></i>
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- Posts: 70
- Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2003 4:27 pm
Re: No way...
Last year Jigsaw quoted me around £850 to do the lot. They based this on 16 hours labour plus parts.
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^
How about doing it yourself,but just replacing a corner at a time over a longer period? I did this myself over 6 months and it took about 4 hours a corner even though i am not that knowledgable at mechanics..i used superflex,and they are superb.A good selection of spanners,a vice and a can of penetrating oil just in case.<br>
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Its a cheaper option by far if money is a bit tight.
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<br>
Its a cheaper option by far if money is a bit tight.
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Re: ^
im doing mine myself, but the car isnt required to be on the road, theres no tight timescale on it, ive tied it in with renovating all the arms/wishbones etc, which does make it easier coz its all clean and all in bits so easy to work with.<br>
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if I was going to do it in stages and keep the car mobile, I'd tackle it by doing mirrored chunks on both sides at a time (thats a rubbish description) to keep the car handling evenly.<br>
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i.e. top wishbone bushes on both sides one weekend, tie rod bushes next weekend, subframe bushes next weekend etc etc<br>
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<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
<p>project orange - slow progress<br>
project black - coming on, could be sold...<br>
project white - pimp my tolly, next year!</p><i></i>
<br>
if I was going to do it in stages and keep the car mobile, I'd tackle it by doing mirrored chunks on both sides at a time (thats a rubbish description) to keep the car handling evenly.<br>
<br>
i.e. top wishbone bushes on both sides one weekend, tie rod bushes next weekend, subframe bushes next weekend etc etc<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
<p>project orange - slow progress<br>
project black - coming on, could be sold...<br>
project white - pimp my tolly, next year!</p><i></i>
Re: ^
<!--EZCODE QUOTE START--><blockquote><strong><em>Quote:</em></strong><hr>if I was going to do it in stages and keep the car mobile, I'd tackle it by doing mirrored chunks on both sides at a time (thats a rubbish description) to keep the car handling evenly.<hr></blockquote><!--EZCODE QUOTE END--><br>
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Definetely the right approach, you dont want to stick it in a ditch.<br>
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Its a worthwhile upgrade, but if if time is limited think about doing just the most critical bushes which are front tie bars (easy job), front upper wishbones and rear upper tie bars. <br>
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Those seem to take the worst punishment.<br>
<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.smifter1971.pwp.blueyonder.c ... >Smifter's Dolomite Sprint Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--><br>
<br>
Scary XE powered 1974 Dolomite Sprint Trackday Experiment. Maybe someday soon<br>
<br>
2002 Octavia VRS - 20 valves, leather, a turbo and 146mph - Czech it out!! </p><i></i>
<br>
Definetely the right approach, you dont want to stick it in a ditch.<br>
<br>
Its a worthwhile upgrade, but if if time is limited think about doing just the most critical bushes which are front tie bars (easy job), front upper wishbones and rear upper tie bars. <br>
<br>
Those seem to take the worst punishment.<br>
<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.smifter1971.pwp.blueyonder.c ... >Smifter's Dolomite Sprint Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--><br>
<br>
Scary XE powered 1974 Dolomite Sprint Trackday Experiment. Maybe someday soon<br>
<br>
2002 Octavia VRS - 20 valves, leather, a turbo and 146mph - Czech it out!! </p><i></i>
Re: ^
I would say there is very little point in doing the subframe for general road use, the bits of rubber that actually do the work are generally in good order, the rest you could do on a Saturday afternoon with a following wind...
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<p></p><i></i>
Suspension bush replacement
Thanks for all the opinions. You’ve convinced me I should just get on and do it myself, and I can do it a pair at a time. Last time I tackled suspension bits had a compressor, impact wrench and some acetylene; which I no longer have and made me dread those long rusted bolts. Still have an angle grinder and a long breaker bar so will no doubt be putting those into service.<br>
<br>
Totally agree with "don’t fix what aint broke", but the suspension feels very loose and a nasty metal to metal clonk when turning left (from the right side); so think all of the bushes deserve replacement. Will have to convince ‘er indoors to let me more time in the garage…<br>
<br>
While doing it I want to check the ball joints – got through MOT no problems, but would like to check. How should this be done? Think I remember MOT men jacking on the subframe and tyre levering to see for play – is this right and how much play is acceptable?<br>
<br>
Cheers<br>
<br>
Clive<br>
<p></p><i></i>
<br>
Totally agree with "don’t fix what aint broke", but the suspension feels very loose and a nasty metal to metal clonk when turning left (from the right side); so think all of the bushes deserve replacement. Will have to convince ‘er indoors to let me more time in the garage…<br>
<br>
While doing it I want to check the ball joints – got through MOT no problems, but would like to check. How should this be done? Think I remember MOT men jacking on the subframe and tyre levering to see for play – is this right and how much play is acceptable?<br>
<br>
Cheers<br>
<br>
Clive<br>
<p></p><i></i>
Re: Suspension bush replacement
The <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_250.htm">MOT teters manual</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> says a reason for failure is: 'excessive play in any suspension swivel pin or suspension ball Joint'. Trouble is 'excessive' is subjective. Far too many MOT testers consider 'detectable' and 'excessive' to be interchangable. My advice is make your own judgement, it's your life and your wallet.<br>
<br>
Tinweevil
<p>1978 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/704">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Blue, a bit tetley. - Current daily drive.<br>
1972 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/754">Spitfire IV</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> No name, in bits.<br>
1968 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/705">GT6 II</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Little blue, nice!<br>
1973 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/755">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> VA41, seriously tetley.<br>
1980 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/864">Dolomite 1500HL</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Orange, really quite tidy.</p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... nweevil</A> at: 5/8/06 6:47 pm<br></i>
<br>
Tinweevil
<p>1978 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/704">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Blue, a bit tetley. - Current daily drive.<br>
1972 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/754">Spitfire IV</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> No name, in bits.<br>
1968 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/705">GT6 II</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Little blue, nice!<br>
1973 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/755">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> VA41, seriously tetley.<br>
1980 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/864">Dolomite 1500HL</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Orange, really quite tidy.</p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... nweevil</A> at: 5/8/06 6:47 pm<br></i>
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