Lowered suspension and larger wheels for track days?

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MaddMart
Posts: 1154
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2003 8:35 pm

Track Cars

#16 Post by MaddMart » Wed Aug 23, 2006 11:05 am

Let's not misunderstand what Track Days are about. It's not about racing (although a fair bit competitiveness does creep in). The car itself can be (and often is) a bog standard road going car & therefore there's no reason a 1500 Dolly can't be tracked in it's original form. Why do I bother driving my Sprint around the track when I have an S2000 that would do a lap far quicker? It's about pushing your car and yourself to the limit, whatever that may be, in a relatively safe environment. It's a great buzz when you're on track whether driving or as a passenger. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START 8) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/glasses.gif ALT="8)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p>Martin<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

Carsreunited
Posts: 1673
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2003 6:45 pm

Re: Track Cars

#17 Post by Carsreunited » Wed Aug 23, 2006 1:29 pm

I have to say that 2" lowered is only good for the pimped look. On track it won't be adviseable either. You would be suprised at how bumpy most curcuits are. I did a track day at Rockingham a few weeks ago in my Elise and at one point in the track, you can hear the front undertray scraping the track as it bottoms out, that was into a 30mph bend!<br>
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I regularly get the tyres chirping the wheel arches on the racer on 13's with stiffer springs (probably too stiff) and adjustable Avo's. I think one of the guys in NZ races a brown dolly with 15" MGF alloys. Might be worth asking his advice.<br>
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As for the 1500 engine, the decision is yours. If you want to be flying around embarrasing more modern machinary then go for a different lump, if you want to do it for fun then stick with the 1500. Make sure it is built very well. Might be worth popping along to a TSSC race and speaking to the few guys who actually have them<br>
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Best of luck either way and keep asking questions.<br>
<br>
Scott

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whitewizard
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:02 pm

Re: Track Cars

#18 Post by whitewizard » Wed Aug 23, 2006 5:59 pm

Thanks for the advice guys but you may have misinterpreted my ideas. I am a complete Triumph novice, not car novice as I have had may track/road escorts/capris etc over the years but a friend has just aquired a yellow 1500 from this very site and is intending tol restore her. I on the other hand have got a fairly different approach. My car is not quite as good as his and although you may not like it, I have no intention of a restoration. I will sell all the trim/chrome, interior etc to genuine restorers so it doesn't go to waste and then have a great laugh with the rest. Looks are more important with this idea than practicality and i can not thank you all for your words of wisdom that 15" wheels won't work so i'll scrap that idea but i am determined to get it scraping the tarmac so a sump guard etc may be needed! As for tyre wear etc, I don't mind if tyres only last 1000 miles as its gonna be used probably only a couple of times a month at most. I was looking at maybe then buying a Sprint in the new year if I enjoy the experience of working on Triumph's as much as i have Fords over the years. I may jump ship as I have been lokking for a mint RS2000 or Harrier and wanted to pay no more than 6k but can't get one for that! You guys seem to have as much fun with your Sprints etc so i may give that a go instead. Thanks again guys... Ps where can i get a strut brace for the 1500 and i hope i haven't offended anyone.

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tinweevil
Posts: 573
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2004 3:05 pm

Re: Track Cars

#19 Post by tinweevil » Wed Aug 23, 2006 8:36 pm

Welcome Wizard,<br>
<br>
You're gonna grin 'till your face aches. 1500's are cheap as to fix compared to anything blue awful, sorry, blue oval. Sprints are a lot less cheap to fix but a helluva lot cheaper than an RS to aquire. With that sorta budget and attitude I say again you'll grin 'till your face aches. 6 grand should see you in a beeeutiful sprint for the road that will eat a stock RS in all but the twistiest twisties with a trim level leagues above and still leave a bloody good 4 figure budget for the track car.<br>
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Keep us posted, this sounds an interesting project.<br>
<br>
Tinweevil<br>
<br>


<p>1978 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/704">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Blue, a bit tetley. - Current daily drive.<br>
1972 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/754">Spitfire IV</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> No name, in bits.<br>
1968 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/705">GT6 II</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Little blue, nice!<br>
1973 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/755">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> VA41, seriously tetley.<br>
1980 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/864">Dolomite 1500HL</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Orange, really quite tidy.</p><i></i>

davepoth
Posts: 856
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 9:46 pm

Re: Track Cars

#20 Post by davepoth » Wed Aug 23, 2006 9:12 pm

And as I said earlier, upgrading a 1500 to sprint running gear is not that difficult, the only body modification necessary is the transmission tunnel as the gearbox is bigger, but that bolts in, so it's really easy.

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dollyboy
Posts: 474
Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 11:15 am

Re: Track Cars

#21 Post by dollyboy » Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:56 am

<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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another little essay from me! 1500's are great cars in their their own right and good fun, but I wouldnt go chucking £££'s at one unless its a resto or labour of love because the amount spent vs the gain is disproportionate and you're very unlikely to get it back.<br>
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converting one to sprint gear if you want to do it properly will require subframe and mounts, front end wiring, engine, gbox, tunnel, propshaft, diff, axle and rear brakes. the best way to get this lot is from a knackered donor car, but you'd probably do better doing up/re-shelling the donor car.<br>
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all the lowering chit chat - 2" from standard will be fine. use the yellow sprint or SE on the cover of rimmers catalogue as the base/control model. a standard car on standard fresh springs will sit unladen on a level flat surface with a gap of around 2.5" between the top of the tyre and the arch (front), Hi Lux styleeee! take 2" off that and you'll still be higher than lewis's recent beast. issue is that most dollies out there on standard springs will sit lower as the springs are probably tired, being maybe half the age of the car or older, my '79 sprint was still on its originals before i stripped it.<br>
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stick with sprint wheels, there's plenty about for sensible £, they look great if polished and 185x60 or 65 tyres will fit happily and cope with anything you'll chuck at it on road as well as track.<br>
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as far as sprint drive train is concerned compared with 1500/1300 (and 1850 for that matter), everything behind/rear of the gearbox is different/chunkier apart from brake back plates and a few bolts and fittings - part numbers tell all. could be just lengths and fittings that are different on some parts but anything thats not actually chunkier should have been, but possibly wasnt down to cost.<br>
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I'd just run your 1500 ragged and get a sprint or sprint donor next year! <br>
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just my opinion for what its worth, but im no heroic mechanic.<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p>project orange - gradual progress<br>
project STEALTH - PASS!!! <br>
project white - AAARGGGHHH!!! too many cars!!!</p><i></i>

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