Timing...

[AdeyB]

Hi<br>
Just got the Sprint back with its nice stage-2 head and fast road cam. It goes very well but I have a problem:<br>
<br>
When the Kenlowe kicks in it virtually stalls the engine. It does something similar on my TR4, but the cam on that isn't quite so hairy so the idle isn't as lumpy, so it doesn't kill the engine (although it has to idle @ 1000rpm). The Sprint, on the other hand, if it's not idling @ ~1500rpm without the Kenlowe on will almost stall when the fan eventually cuts in.<br>
<br>
Anyone else had this?<br>
So, I was wondering if the timing has been set correctly.<br>
What static timing have people found is needed (Approx), on a fast road cam? I was @ 10*BTDC on the standard set up.<br>
<br>
any ideas? or is this normal?!!<br>
<br>
Adey

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[SMIFTER]

No its not normal!<br>
<br>
Is the cam timing correct? I always managed an 1100rpm idle quite smoothly on an STR91 with 45's so a fast road cam should at least be similar.<br>
<br>
Regarding static timing - you need to look at dynamic timing really. For what its worth i found the STR91 best at 13deg.

<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.smifter1971.pwp.blueyonder.c ... >Smifter's Dolomite Sprint Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--><br>
<br>
Featherweight 1974 Dolomite Sprint - Soon to be XE'd, NOS'd, Megasquirted and 5 linked Lash up to scare myself (and my wallet) senseless<br>
<br>
2004 Smart Roadster (company car!!) - 698cc of turbo'd adrenaline fuelled rollerskate - destined to classic status thanks to Daimler Chrysler bean counters.<br>
<br>
1997 Audi A4 2.6 to chill out after the above and fill with baby products.....<br>
<br>
2005 Trek 1400 (ok its not a car but still fast) - <br>
a bit like Lance Armstrong but slower and fatter</p><i></i>

[AdeyB]

The cam timing seems fine as it will idle nicely @ 1000-1100rpm and screams its way upto the red line no problem. So, the issue seems to be with the kenlowe then.<br>
<br>
Where have you taken the +ve feed for the fan from? <br>
<br>
I'll check the current draw on it too in case it's pulling too much. Other than that, I'm a bit stumped!<br>
<br>
Any further ideas?<br>
cheers<br>
Adey

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[AdeyB]

having scoured several web pages and BBs it would appear that my alternator may not be as efficient as it once was...<br>
<br>
something else to check!<br>
<br>
still open to any ideas though <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
cheers (again)<br>
Adey

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[Carsreunited]

Never noticed any discernable drop in revs when my electric fan was on.<br>
<br>


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[davepoth]

A bad alternator and a lumpy cam are probably conspiring. Was the electrical system under a heavy load (big stereo, headlights, rear demister)?

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[Jon Tilson]

is a bit late for this cam. As GS says around 13 will be better. Where are you taking the fan feed from?<br>
Put a meter on the coil with the earth on the block and look at the volts as the fan comes on. You may find that you have a non earthy earth....and are changing the coil voltage. Check all your earth straps, engine to body to battery as they can corode. Slow turning starter is often a clue.<br>
Jonners

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[AdeyB]

The alternator is (probably) the original 17ACR. My Sprint is (was) relatively untouched and so far I've had to overhaul the starter (among other things) so it's no surprise that the alternator is on its way out. The lights never seem really bright even though the dipped have been halogen converted.<br>
<br>
I've got an 18ACR that can go on it (45A output I think as opposed to the 36A of the 17ACR).<br>
<br>
Thanks for the help!<br>
Adey

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[dollysteve]

The kenlowe does draw a fair amount so I reckon the alternator needs to be tip top, personally I went the route of fitting the montego one, it fit`s straight on and actually looks a whole lot better than the 17 ACR that should be there, now, with all the lights, heater, kenlowe runnning the volt meter barely moves from just below the 13 mark. With regards the wiring I think it`s important to wire the fan via a relay with the load being taken straight of the battery and the switched live obviously from the fan switch.

<p>1976 Dolomite was a 1500<br>
1976 Dolomite 1850 HL Auto<br>
1979 Dolomite 1850 HL Man o/d<br>
1989 Noisy Mini 1340 <br>
1995 2.3 Saab 900<br>
1968 1300 FWD</p><i></i>

[AdeyB]

A quick phone call to Mark @ jigsaw has confirmed that it is very likely to be the alternator and that this is more of a problem now that the new cam has created a lumpy idle.<br>
<br>
All I need to do now is fit the bits! (fingers crossed)<br>
<br>
Even before the cam was changed, if the lights were on the Voltmeter would take a dive to just below 12V even when running ie not stationary, and that was without the fan running - makes sense now, durrrr...<br>
<br>
cheers<br>
Adey

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[davepoth]

Good job you've caught it now. The lights would have been draining the battery in that situation. A similar thing happened to me and I ended up at the side of the road on a wet december night with no battery.

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[AdeyB]

Top of Wrynose pass in the Lakes @ 1.30am on LEJOG - dead alternator, flat battery... -13*C too (brass wotsits I can tell you!)<br>
<br>
not fun<br>
<br>
The RAC guy was great though. He put the TR on front wheel pans - we asked him if he could get us to Carlise in under an hour so we didn't miss the Main Timing Control. He didn't do, but he half didn't try! The back of the TR was sliding all over the place, how it didn't hit an oncoming car I'll never know. We we're bricking it in the back seat whilst his wife and kid slept peacefully in the front!

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