Best plugs?

[Mike L Taylor]

Had a quick look thru the title threads to see if anyone has posted anything to do with the best spark plugs for a Sprint but nothing showing. <br>
<br>
If my engine is (still) pinking, after the carburrettors and timing have been checked (magnatronic elec ign fitted), the fuel mixture has been turned up a bit (exhaust analyser is showing 2.9) do I need to fit a hotter plug than the Unipart GSP361's or the Champion S9YC's? I just went out and bought a set of NGK BP7EFS only to find that they won't even fit down the plug tube!!!

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[MaddMart]

The best plugs to use are NGK BP6EFS (6 not 7).<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-x-NGK-BP6EFS-Sp ... dZViewItem" target="top">cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-x-NGK-BP6EFS-Spark-Plugs-Triumph-Dolomite-2-0-Sprint_W0QQitemZ260034133667QQihZ016QQcategoryZ27383QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem</a><!--EZCODE LINK END-->

<p>Martin<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

[pmn74]

You really need NGK BP6EFS for the sprint, not BP7.

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[MaddMart]

Snap

<p>Martin<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

[blacksprint]

Steve Martin who used to have 'quicksprint' used NGK BR7EFS for an uprated engine, with the nitrous he used BR8EFS.<br>
<br>
Neil

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[Mike L Taylor]

Thanks very much guys. I'll get a set tomorrow. BTW, I took the Sprint on its' first run out today since the rebuild to Seaton in Devon (about 130 mile round trip). I noticed quite a bit of what I think was white smoke on acceleration (not big clouds but certainly big whisps) and the tick over was quite high at almost 1000 rpm. I also noticed that when changing up through the 'box, the engine revs don't fall off when releasing my foot from the throttle as they should. Before I started the run today, I decided to double check the dynamic timing after having fitted the elec ign yesterday. When setting the car up before the elec ign using the strobe I got the timing set at 10 degs before. However, this morning during the check after fitting the elec ign I noted that the engine was running quite fast and the timing was actually nearer 20 - 24 before! Obviously I reset it to 10 expecting this to sort it out but the revs still were around the 1000 mark. On the return leg I needed some fuel so I topped up with super unleaded (is that 98 octane??) in an attempt to reduce this pinking. What AM I doing wrong?

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[MalcGE]

To cure pinking you would need to go cooler. club has some orginal GSP381 BN7Y equivalents and the correct spec as detailed in the handbook. <br>
<br>
Not sure if we've asked, but has the head had a skim. read an article once about a Saab that displayed pinking after a head rebuild, Turned out the head had been skimmed and the edges of the combustion chamber were 'sharp' and thus creating hot spots that caused the pre-ignition (pinking). Off with the head and a gentle radius to the combustion chamber edges and it was cured.<br>
<br>
Would only recommed you use the cool running plugs if you have alloy plug tubes, legend has it they didn't like an oil bath and there were a few probs with plug insulator coming unstuck.

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[ALG1K]

The best plugs you can fit in a dolomite engine are Nippon denso IK range <br>
The Plugs will last the life of the engine <br>
No messing with feeler gauges<br>
just fit and forget<br>
But i havnt told you that <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[rich]

where do you get them , halfords<br>
<br>
sound good though<br>
sorry daz almost feel like i shoud be round for a area rep talking too , abo9ut the do's and don'ts of the sprint engine and ancilaries<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START : --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/ohwell.gif ALT=":"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... ub>rich</A> at: 23/9/06 10:09 pm<br></i>

[ALG1K]

These are not the ones you need you need to do a heat range comparison <br>
<!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href="http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php? ... <!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END--><br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href="http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php? ... <!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END-->

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... k>ALG1K</A> at: 23/9/06 11:36 pm<br></i>

[Mike L Taylor]

Have now fitted a new set of NGK BP6EFS - gapped to 25k,<br>
put some 97 high octane fuel in the tanK and set the timing at about 8 degs BTDC with the strobe. After a quick burn up a few local small hills I didn't detect any pinking but really need to run up something a lot steeper and longer - like the M5/A38's Haldon Hill. Have to say though that when setting the ign up at first without the leccy unit in I had the timing bang on at 10 BTDC. After fitting the unit - and not disturbing the position of the dizzy - then using the strobe light I found the timing marks where showing roughly 20 BTDC. I adjusted this down to 10 again but still had the occasional pinking. Now, as I say it's set at 8. Do you think this set up is correct?

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[dollyboy]

i reckon theres an art to this stuff. my stag m8 has the ability to do this by ear, sets it at tickover and at about 3500 rpm, and just listens. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> he set up the red sprint (XOX) that was gona be project red, this is the car that I had the engine from. <br>
<br>
after using the 'ear' method, the car went to john wilcox for some rolling road action, IIRC he said initially it managed about 182bhp, then with bigger jets and mr wilcox on the tools and diagnostic gear, the best they got was about 186bhp. not bad for a geeza in his mid-late 50's<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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<p>project orange - gradual progress<br>
project STEALTH - PASS!!! <br>
project white - AAARGGGHHH!!! too many cars!!!</p><i></i>

[Jon Tilson]

Static timing without a light isnt that accurate. There is always a bit of slop, stick and backlash in the distributor drive and advance mechanisms, be they vaccum and centrifugal or combination. Best to set the timing with a strobe light at 800 rpm and then check that both vacuum and centrifigal advance actually do something as the revs rise. Hence your being 10 degrees out after timing it statically and then looking with a light.<br>
Jonners

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[Mike L Taylor]

Thanks Jonners. Was going to test the Sprint on my way to our club meet tonight but as it has just stopped hissing down and theres water everywhere, think I'll keep it in the garage and use my wifes Renault (what a come down!! AND its an automatic too!!)

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