Sprint (Rover V8) Overheating...

[morebhp]

I was hoping to pick your collective brains about my overheating problems. (Sounds painful! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> )<br>
<br>
Right, since having replaced my carbs and inlet manifold, the car's been overheating like a good'un. <br>
<br>
Before: Temp guage was "normal" at 1/4 of the way across the dial. In heavy traffic in the summer (no cooling fan) it would go up to 1/2 way across the dial. In a queue, I would turn around and go for a blat to get some air through the rad if it got any hotter than 1/2 way across the dial.<br>
<br>
After: Now the car shoots up to 1/2 way across the dial after warming up, and after another couple of minutes driving, it's 3/4 across the dial, in spite of it now having a working electric cooling fan that kicks in at 1/2 way across the dial. When at idle, the temperature behaves itself a biut better than when driving along, but it still gets to half way across the dial.<br>
<br>
I did use my original thermostat in the new manifold, and my original temp guage sensor from my original manifold. There's no cheese in the expansion tank and none in the oil filler. I gave the car to a bloke who knows his stuff, who got it running a bit better. He did the timing (it was some way off), and played with the carbs a bit. His comments on the carbs were slightly frustrating: last time he saw a pair of Webber 44 IDF's they were strapped to a 1600 Beetle lump. He reckoned I'd never get the kind of fuelling I need from these carbs on my V8. Could this have something to do with the overheating?<br>
<br>
So far I reckon it's one of the following:<br>
<br>
1) Bad gasket seal, meaning coolant can leak into the inlet ports.<br>
2) Mixture is leaning off at high revs, which I've been told can cause overheating.<br>
<br>
Any suggestions/comments would be massively appreciated, as the car is now MoT'd, taxed and insured, but undriveable. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Thanks in advance <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Adam

<p>1978 Dolomite Sprint 3.5 V8<br>
1976 MG Midget (mint, sold)<br>
1974 RWA MG Midget (K-Series VVC project)<br>
And looking for a very cheap, simple LHD, for the Plymouth-Banjul Rally 2007...</p><i></i>

[miniman]

Lean mixture could certainly cause overheating and seems likely given recent carb change.<br>
<br>
However, are you sure the gauge is reading right? If you've disturbed the sender or something whilst doing the work, perhaps the fan is actually kicking in now at 1/4 and it's not actually overheating??

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[morebhp]

Thanks for the reply <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
I hadn't thought of that... <br>
<br>
I suppose the internal design of the manifold could be different from my SU item, also implying that the sensor might pick up a different reading for the same actual water temperature...<br>
<br>
That said, I still think it is overheating, as the engine gets a lot hotter than I remember it getting when running the old SU's, and coolant is definitely disappearing <!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>somewhere</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END-->, albeit in small quantities.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
Adam<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>


<p>1978 Dolomite Sprint 3.5 V8<br>
1976 MG Midget (mint, sold)<br>
1974 RWA MG Midget (K-Series VVC project)<br>
And looking for a very cheap, simple LHD, for the Plymouth-Banjul Rally 2007...</p><i></i>

[Jon Tilson]

for bubbles in the expansion tank when running at idle, if you have an expansion tank on yours that is....<br>
Just in case you may have popped the head gasket.<br>
<br>
I'd have stuck with the SU's quite honestly....<br>
<br>
The only other manifold worth putting on the V8 is an edlebrock with a 4 barrel Holley or the big webber downdraught twin choke. That makes the V8 go very nicely.<br>
<br>
Jonners

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[davepoth]

Could you ream out the SU manifold for HS8s maybe? Might get you some more poke...

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[morebhp]

<!--EZCODE QUOTE START--><blockquote><strong><em>Quote:</em></strong><hr>I'd have stuck with the SU's quite honestly....<hr></blockquote><!--EZCODE QUOTE END--><br>
<br>
I am fast learning this! And now I couldn't agree more. Quite depressing really - have messed up my bonnet with a big hole and a scoop, all for a set of carbs that aren't up to the job. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Memo to self: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"<br>
<br>
The only reason I didn't go for a 4-barrel is the £500 price tag... At least I can now sell my Webbers on ebay for about £200, then making the 4-barrel price a little easier to swallow. <br>
<br>
If I go down that route, I'll be after a decent non-hacked about bonnet...<br>
<br>
Cheers for your input guys. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Adam

<p>1978 Dolomite Sprint 3.5 V8<br>
1976 MG Midget (mint, sold)<br>
1974 RWA MG Midget (K-Series VVC project)<br>
And looking for a very cheap, simple LHD, for the Plymouth-Banjul Rally 2007...</p><i></i>

[george]

did you use gasket sealer the corners of the gasket we used it as a precautionary measure on the v8 even with new gaskets if not they can leak from this area but it will go straight into the sump if you cant see a leak outwards and be present in the oil who's manifold is it ?<br>
but the best is a edelbrock etc

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[morebhp]

I didn't use gasket sealer...<br>
<br>
I might whip it off, get another new gasket, seal it all up and give that a shot. <br>
<br>
Should I go for a tin gasket or a composite one? (I've got a tin one at present.)<br>
<br>
The manifold's a 4.6 injection one that's been modified to take the IDF's.

<p>1978 Dolomite Sprint 3.5 V8<br>
1976 MG Midget (mint, sold)<br>
1974 RWA MG Midget (K-Series VVC project)<br>
And looking for a very cheap, simple LHD, for the Plymouth-Banjul Rally 2007...</p><i></i>

[LewisK]

The only cure is to sell it to me, quite clearly <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
That'll fix the problem!

<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.antchip.com/sig2.jpg"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
<!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="font-size:xx-small;"><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>Crazy! I mean like so many positive waves, we can't lose! You're on!</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--></p><i></i>

[SprintV8]

Is there AntiFreeze in the coolant system if so go start looking for that leak.<br>
You can make a cheap rad tester by getting a old rad cap drilling a hole in the centre and add a tyre valve.<br>
(Blank off the over flow pipe)<br>
Pump it up with a Bicylce pump only,<br>
Add A/F should make it easier to find the leak if external as the A/F will leave a stain.<br>
<br>
Is the timing correct try putting it back to where it should be for that engine.<br>
<br>
Quad 44's may be a touch OTT for normal road use.<br>
<br>
Edit,<br>
PS please dont sell it to Lewis he will only ABUSE IT.<br>
<br>
BRING IT ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!<br>
<br>


<p>1980 Dolomite SprintV8 (AJP8 is in but need to adjust the postion and make mount's)<br>
2002 Citroen Xsara 2.0 HDi Estate.... Part's delivery Vehicle.<br>
They laugh at me because I am different. I laugh at them because they are all the same!)<br>
<br>
</p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... printV8</A> at: 2/8/06 8:08 pm<br></i>

[george]

go for tin never had any issues with them good enough for buick <br>
they can be reused (your choice)so long as you use hylomar on them and dont forget to replace the rubber seals at the ends at the same time leave the holding bolts at the ends (rubber seal) loose and tighten after the manifold has been bolted down

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[morebhp]

Lewis: No chance! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
SprintV8: Cheers for the A/F tip... I'll give that a go. Was watertight before I p1ssed about with it. BTW, it's only the two twin-choke 44's, not quad. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
George: Thanks for the gasket tips <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> Re-used the gasket last time, which is probably part of the problem...<br>
<br>
One of these days, I'll hear the roar of 120db of V8 rumble again... <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Adam

<p>1978 Dolomite Sprint 3.5 V8<br>
1976 MG Midget (mint, sold)<br>
1974 RWA MG Midget (K-Series VVC project)<br>
And looking for a very cheap, simple LHD, for the Plymouth-Banjul Rally 2007...</p><i></i>

[USASPRINTMAN]

You don't have to spend 500 pounds for a holley carburetor.<br>
You can have someone in America (me, maybe) buy one for you and send it over. Holley carbs from hot rod supply businesses like Summit Racing Equipment, often are less than $250 dollars.<br>
<br>
Richard Truett<br>
Detroit Michigan

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[slant04]

I would bet you may have disloged some sludge or have a blockage. That engine runs upto heat very quickly, but the characteristics you are getting are almost saying blocked rad (overheat on load) I know its sounds daft (but easy on those things) but have you put the hoses back on the right positins? Is it an sd1 lump or a p6?

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[morebhp]

Richard,<br>
<br>
Thanks for the (maybe) offer! Wow, 250usd is massively cheap in comparison with here, though my £500 price did include the manifold & thermostat housing, but still! I'll still need to do some saving up before shelling out for a 4-barrel, but I'll put a post on here before I do buy one, just in case anyone across the pond is willing to assist me with getting one a bit cheaper <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
slant04,<br>
<br>
It's a P6 lump. Blockages are I suppose possible...<br>
<br>
After another hour of running and revving in the driveway last night (my neighbours must HATE me - she's LOUD!), the summary of the problems is as follows:<br>
<br>
1) It runs too hot according to the guage, even at idle, though the engine doesn't 'feel' hotter than it should be at idle.<br>
2) The performance is dire - you cannot fully open the throttle ever, or it tries to stall. But this is the carbs, and really a different (though possibly related) issue!<br>
3) When I rev it the level in my expansion tank rises and then falls. To me, this stongly suggests a head gasket problem.<br>
4) When one revs the engine and then backs off, big bubbles appear in the expansion tank. Again, this suggests head gasket problems.<br>
5) Coolant is disappearing at the rate of one litre fo an hour of idling and revving in the driveway. Only a very small amount is seeping from one of the rad hose joints. (Certainly not a litre!)<br>
<br>
So... I'm away on holiday for the next two weeks, but I've decided to order two new head gaskets and an inlet manifold gasket, and attack it on the bank holiday weekend. At least then I can rule out head gaskets from the equation.<br>
<br>
Before I do the gaskets, I will run the engine doing some jiggery-pokery with my garden hose and a rad hose disconnected to flush any gunge out of the system. (The amount of sludge that came out of a modern car I owned a few years ago when I did this garden hose trick was a real eye opener!)<br>
<br>
Thanks for all your help everyone <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Adam<br>
<br>


<p>1978 Dolomite Sprint 3.5 V8<br>
1976 MG Midget (mint, sold)<br>
1974 RWA MG Midget (K-Series VVC project)<br>
And looking for a very cheap, simple LHD, for the Plymouth-Banjul Rally 2007...</p><i></i>