Uprated Brakes
Re: wasting money
Yer and when you try out braking moderns your pads only last a couple of months <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :b --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/tongue.gif ALT=":b"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
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Re: Right to Consider it...
I believe we are all indebted to Adam for his magnificent and illuminating address as captioned in his first contribution to this thread. I enjoyed it immensely and furthermore am delighted that his soujourn to University is not going to deny us such pearls of wisdom.<br>
<br>
Then I saw it was written at 12.14am, and most probably on the back of several gallons of falling down water. Magnificent stuff though.<br>
<br>
Back on topic though.<br>
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On Saturday going down to the Revival at Goodwood, I was gunning the 1300 along the A27 (as usual) and experienced massive brake fade, after about the fourth roundabout.<br>
<br>
The 1300FWD is different in detail, but the discs and pads are almost identical to the rest of the range in size and swept area. My car does 0-60 in 16 seconds for goodness sake.<br>
<br>
Sorry, but anyone who wishes to suggest that this equipment is sufficient for "spirited" motoring on the more powerful Dolly's is plain irresponsible (as were the beancounters at Leyland for fitting them in the first place). For "normal" driving fine, but anything more than that and you simply must uprate the brakes.<br>
<br>
That opens a can of worms as there are many alternative - change pads, change pads and discs, go to Sierra conversion, etc.<br>
<br>
My own view is that it is probably best to go with something tried and tested, on which other people have done the development work (it is only your life at stake after all). Thus, I would go Sierra conversion or Sprintparts kit. Both these are known quantities. One requires more modification than the other - you pays your money you takes your choice.<br>
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I remember driving my mates Dolly 1850 over the Alps in about 1985 and having to stop the car at the end of one of the (longer) descents by running the front wheel along the kerb! Never again.....
<p>Martin<br>
<br>
1968 Triumph 1300FWD<br>
1975 Triumph 1500TC Auto<br>
1989 Honda Civic 1300 Auto<br>
2006 Mondeo 2.0 Ghia X Auto<br>
2002 Renault Scenic<br>
<br>
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<br>
Then I saw it was written at 12.14am, and most probably on the back of several gallons of falling down water. Magnificent stuff though.<br>
<br>
Back on topic though.<br>
<br>
On Saturday going down to the Revival at Goodwood, I was gunning the 1300 along the A27 (as usual) and experienced massive brake fade, after about the fourth roundabout.<br>
<br>
The 1300FWD is different in detail, but the discs and pads are almost identical to the rest of the range in size and swept area. My car does 0-60 in 16 seconds for goodness sake.<br>
<br>
Sorry, but anyone who wishes to suggest that this equipment is sufficient for "spirited" motoring on the more powerful Dolly's is plain irresponsible (as were the beancounters at Leyland for fitting them in the first place). For "normal" driving fine, but anything more than that and you simply must uprate the brakes.<br>
<br>
That opens a can of worms as there are many alternative - change pads, change pads and discs, go to Sierra conversion, etc.<br>
<br>
My own view is that it is probably best to go with something tried and tested, on which other people have done the development work (it is only your life at stake after all). Thus, I would go Sierra conversion or Sprintparts kit. Both these are known quantities. One requires more modification than the other - you pays your money you takes your choice.<br>
<br>
I remember driving my mates Dolly 1850 over the Alps in about 1985 and having to stop the car at the end of one of the (longer) descents by running the front wheel along the kerb! Never again.....
<p>Martin<br>
<br>
1968 Triumph 1300FWD<br>
1975 Triumph 1500TC Auto<br>
1989 Honda Civic 1300 Auto<br>
2006 Mondeo 2.0 Ghia X Auto<br>
2002 Renault Scenic<br>
<br>
</p><i></i>
Re: Right to Consider it...
Yer but if you down shift violently it slows the car down about twice as fast <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> I've even locked the diff up in the rain by doing that <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
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When they were new....
decent pads with that wonderful asbsestis stuff and brands like mintex and ferodo were available.<br>
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Now pads are made by Moprod and other "experts" and are quite frankly shite....<br>
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Also the Sprint was specced with different pads. f the brakes werent up to it then, they would have been roundly panned by Autocar and Motor. They were and are fine for 70's road conditions.<br>
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Trouble is its the noughties now....and abs beemers and mercs and mondeos and vectras are the norm which are all over servoed, hard padded and hard disked accordingly with massive vented discs as std. Brake fade is a thing of memory only.<br>
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So if you wanna keep up, and drive like a mindless abs equipped rep, you have to update. I dont think a Dolly should be driven like that....<br>
Jonners<br>
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Now pads are made by Moprod and other "experts" and are quite frankly shite....<br>
<br>
Also the Sprint was specced with different pads. f the brakes werent up to it then, they would have been roundly panned by Autocar and Motor. They were and are fine for 70's road conditions.<br>
<br>
Trouble is its the noughties now....and abs beemers and mercs and mondeos and vectras are the norm which are all over servoed, hard padded and hard disked accordingly with massive vented discs as std. Brake fade is a thing of memory only.<br>
<br>
So if you wanna keep up, and drive like a mindless abs equipped rep, you have to update. I dont think a Dolly should be driven like that....<br>
Jonners<br>
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Re: When they were new....
im with you here jonners, unless its a track or race car.<br>
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driving like a tw@t in a dolly is going to lead to tears one way or another. you'll either smash into things, wear things out far more quickly than necessary, break things etc and eventually its gona cost...<br>
<br>
...part of the reason why im sticking to a set up thats as standard but uprated as possible, if that makes any sense...<br>
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<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
<p>project orange - gradual progress<br>
project STEALTH - PASS!!! <br>
project white - AAARGGGHHH!!! too many cars!!!</p><i></i>
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driving like a tw@t in a dolly is going to lead to tears one way or another. you'll either smash into things, wear things out far more quickly than necessary, break things etc and eventually its gona cost...<br>
<br>
...part of the reason why im sticking to a set up thats as standard but uprated as possible, if that makes any sense...<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
<p>project orange - gradual progress<br>
project STEALTH - PASS!!! <br>
project white - AAARGGGHHH!!! too many cars!!!</p><i></i>
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- Posts: 135
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Re: When they were new....
How does this kit compare the Sprint Parts one listed above. Does it do the same thing?<br>
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<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.chriswitor.com/Chris_Witor_B ... Brakes.pdf" target="top">www.chriswitor.com/Chris_Witor_Budget_V ... <!--EZCODE LINK END--><br>
<br>
Chris
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<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.chriswitor.com/Chris_Witor_B ... Brakes.pdf" target="top">www.chriswitor.com/Chris_Witor_Budget_V ... <!--EZCODE LINK END--><br>
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Chris
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Fine...
Bit dear but great if you want a big Trummy to stop better and have the thick end of a monkey to spend.<br>
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Not much use for a dolomite though....<br>
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Jonners
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Not much use for a dolomite though....<br>
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Jonners
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Re: When they were new....
Chris,<br>
<br>
That's for the Triumph 2000/2500/Stag, which has different hub arrangements, so it wouldn't work on the Dolly without a <!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>lot</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--> of modification (ask Phil (SprintV<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START 8) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/glasses.gif ALT="8)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> )
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That's for the Triumph 2000/2500/Stag, which has different hub arrangements, so it wouldn't work on the Dolly without a <!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>lot</strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--> of modification (ask Phil (SprintV<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START 8) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/glasses.gif ALT="8)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> )
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Re: When they were new....
Never mind the hub, you need 14" wheels.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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David
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David
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Re: When they were new....
Dave<br>
<br>
Thanks for being more observant than I. I thought it was Dolomite.<br>
<br>
Chris<br>
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PS I only have the thin end of a monkey to spend.
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Thanks for being more observant than I. I thought it was Dolomite.<br>
<br>
Chris<br>
<br>
PS I only have the thin end of a monkey to spend.
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won't work
You'll need bigger wheels as it's not designed for the dolly
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Re: When they were new....
Sprintpart kit is looks a fantastic item and I have one here so I'm not just basing that on thin air.<br>
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Massive rotors and excellent chunky calipers, really do look like they'll stop a truck! <br>
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Cost you the thick end of 600 quid by the time you've got them over mind (IIRC) but infinitely superior to any uprated pads or discs for the Sprint, the equal effectively being the HiSpec conversion.<br>
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I'd go for the 'budget' Sierra conversion as that gives you plenty more options on rotors and pads <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Along with a nice set of braided hoses, a decent master cylinder (this is crucial - a rebuilt standard one will be good) and you should be OK.<br>
<br>
And a good set of grippy tyres, as it's no good if you can lock them up in one dab of the brakes............<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.antchip.com/calipers.jpg"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE QUOTE START--><blockquote><strong><em>Quote:</em></strong><hr>This brake conversion has been designed to fit Triumph Dolomite/Sprint using the original factory supplied Sprint alloy wheels. While other wheels may fit over these brakes, you will need to carry out your own testing. The supplied calipers will give an increase in pad size of approximately 50% over the original factory set up and the disc rotor is double the thickness.<hr></blockquote><!--EZCODE QUOTE END--><br>
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<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.sprintparts.triumphowners.co ... <!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
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On one of the Sprintparts cars.<br>
<br>
I look forward to trying them out mind but I have no doubt whatsover there'll be a striking performance increase in braking and pedal feel!
<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.antchip.com/sig2.jpg"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
<!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="font-size:xx-small;"><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>Crazy! I mean like so many positive waves, we can't lose! You're on!</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... >LewisK</A> at: 21/9/06 3:23 pm<br></i>
<br>
Massive rotors and excellent chunky calipers, really do look like they'll stop a truck! <br>
<br>
Cost you the thick end of 600 quid by the time you've got them over mind (IIRC) but infinitely superior to any uprated pads or discs for the Sprint, the equal effectively being the HiSpec conversion.<br>
<br>
I'd go for the 'budget' Sierra conversion as that gives you plenty more options on rotors and pads <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Along with a nice set of braided hoses, a decent master cylinder (this is crucial - a rebuilt standard one will be good) and you should be OK.<br>
<br>
And a good set of grippy tyres, as it's no good if you can lock them up in one dab of the brakes............<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.antchip.com/calipers.jpg"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE QUOTE START--><blockquote><strong><em>Quote:</em></strong><hr>This brake conversion has been designed to fit Triumph Dolomite/Sprint using the original factory supplied Sprint alloy wheels. While other wheels may fit over these brakes, you will need to carry out your own testing. The supplied calipers will give an increase in pad size of approximately 50% over the original factory set up and the disc rotor is double the thickness.<hr></blockquote><!--EZCODE QUOTE END--><br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.sprintparts.triumphowners.co ... <!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
<br>
On one of the Sprintparts cars.<br>
<br>
I look forward to trying them out mind but I have no doubt whatsover there'll be a striking performance increase in braking and pedal feel!
<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.antchip.com/sig2.jpg"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
<!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="font-size:xx-small;"><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>Crazy! I mean like so many positive waves, we can't lose! You're on!</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... >LewisK</A> at: 21/9/06 3:23 pm<br></i>
Re: When they were new....
This is what I have on my Track Sprint. The Sierra conversion will cost you the best part of £200 all in.<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/images/Sierra14.jpg" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END-->
<p>Martin<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>
<br>
<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/images/Sierra14.jpg" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END-->
<p>Martin<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>
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Uprated Brakes
Thanks guys<br>
<br>
Really good posts on this one. There is a lot to consider here. £200 for the Sierra conversion sounds like a tremendous bargain for the parts. Is it really this cheap?<br>
<br>
Chris
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<br>
Really good posts on this one. There is a lot to consider here. £200 for the Sierra conversion sounds like a tremendous bargain for the parts. Is it really this cheap?<br>
<br>
Chris
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Re: Uprated Brakes
Yep,the main cost is for the brackets & machining the discs & hubs. New Sierra discs are only about £30 a pair. Calipers £20 from the scrappy (unless you want to fork out for new) brake pads are £15 a set (standard). But unlike the other conversions you have to do a bit of fettling yourself (see my website).
<p>Martin<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... addMart</A> at: 21/9/06 3:48 pm<br></i>
<p>Martin<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... addMart</A> at: 21/9/06 3:48 pm<br></i>
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