subframe bolts

[benrichie]

does anyone know of a good way to release seized subframe bolts? have tryed WD40 and a large breaker bar. bit stuck now.

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[dollyboy]

plus gas, big hammer<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
failing that, grinder/dremel<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p>project orange - slow progress<br>
project black - coming on, could be sold...<br>
project white - pimp my tolly, next year!</p><i></i>

[davepoth]

Gas axe worked well for me. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>


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[alun n]

I presume you have managed to getthe nuts off?<br>
<br>
The problem is the bolts stick themselves to the inside of the top hat spacer; one side only usually. If a heavy whack on the u/s of the bolt doesn't loosen it thenthey are unlikely to let go. You need to cut through between body and subframe else you are still left with a bit of 'captive' bolt.<br>
<br>
Be prepared to need to repair the inner wing box if its the front one, sticking usually coincides with corrosion around the front tube. A 'kit' of repair sections should be available by TDCIR for this area...

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[LewisK]

<!--EZCODE QUOTE START--><blockquote><strong><em>Quote:</em></strong><hr>sticking usually coincides with corrosion around the front tube<hr></blockquote><!--EZCODE QUOTE END--><br>
<br>
Got exactly this on one of our cars at the moment - the bottom of the 'tube' has gone entirely....s'been trimmed out now and is being rebuilt from pipe laying about and some plate, got an interesting kink in the plates leading up to it that will have to be replicated neatly <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p><!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.antchip.com/sig2.jpg"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
<!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="font-size:xx-small;"><!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>Crazy! I mean like so many positive waves, we can't lose! You're on!</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--></p><i></i>

[alun n]

Oh yes Lewis, the prototype kit has been tested on both VLK and an emergency one on KDU too. Panel man has our cardboard templates and is tooling up. Its a lot easier when you have a NOS panel in the cellar or reference<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :hat --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif ALT=":hat"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[DailySprinter]

Try heat, even a cheap blow torch should help, just be patient with it and try to turn the bolt and tap it too. I've always got them out even on wrecks.

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[alun n]

Conversely I have bolt/top hat assemblies from which I have cut the car away from and failed to separate them even on the bench. Looks like my wrecks are worse than your wrecks!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[benrichie]

thanks for all the advice fellas. tried the blow torch method and subframe is now off! i do have one bolt stuck to the top hat spacer but will cut it free.<br>
Now have many hours work to re-furb the sub frame and all suspension and steering bits<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[dollyboy]

welcome to my world!<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p>project orange - slow progress<br>
project black - coming on, could be sold...<br>
project white - pimp my tolly, next year!</p><i></i>

[Jod Clark]

Kev, remember when the vultures came to visit?<br>
<br>
Remember how I twisted that subframe nut that hard it snapped the bolt? Thats the way.<br>
<br>
Jod<br>
<br>


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