Bodywork restoration (lots of very good pics)

[Silvery]

You know what might really miff you - A month or so ago I advertised the roof off my 1500 on here, in case anyone needed it before I chucked it. It's now at the bottom of a skip, with lots of things on top of it <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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And worse, that rear section where the vents are was near perfect from what I remember <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Not sure I can persuade people to take everything out the skip just to see if the metalwork's survived now either <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Any chance you could shrink the pics a little? Only they're going off the edge of my screen, and I use some silly 1152 resolution!

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[dollysteve]

Personally, when I paint a top coat I don`t mask any of the panel i`m spraying, that way you can fade the new paint in to the existing paint a lot better.<br>
I reckon if you flat down what you have done and then do as I have said above you will hardly tell new from old once you have flatted and polished it. <br>
Unfortunatley when you use tape you will always get a hard edge, this is fine on primer but top coat should blend in with the old paint. You would obviously need to mask things that shouldn`t have paint on them, bumper, tyres etc....<br>
Good work though, closer to the road than any of mine....

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[redrichie]

images resized, sorry <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :o --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... rassed.gif ALT=":o"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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I'll take that tip on the topcoat, I thought it was more important to at least paint them to prevent the filler absorbing water. I think that primer abosrbs moisture too, but anyway, the final touching isn't anywhere near as important as getting the car servicaeable and back on the road.<br>
Silvery <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> , I must have missed that thread. Thinking about it, the longer I put the back panel off, the more likely another panel will turn up.....<br>
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So maybe that will be the last job. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[dollysteve]

Definatley, filler and primer absorb moisture. I believe primer has a certain amount of clay in it. I guess thats the moisure absorbing bit.

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[Leeroy ORG 27R]

Popping out the front window? Its a job i've got to do for the front and the back (already got rubbers from rimmers). Is it an easy task? I will be taking from the old car to add to the new donor shell. Also the little quarters to do on the doors, not looking forward to these tasks!<br>
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She's looking good!!!!<br>
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Hurry up light nights so i can progress with mine!

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... 27r>Leeroy ORG 27R</A> at: 8/3/06 6:58 pm<br></i>

[redrichie]

Both screens are fairly simple to pop out. Be careful with the silver trim if youintend toreuse it, as it can be very fragile. If you have new rubbers, cut the old one around the edge until the window is loose, then apply gentle pressure and it should literally "pop" out. Its a good idea to get an extra pair of hands though.<br>
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Refitting is the standard long piece of string, plenty of washing up liquid trick, again I would get an extra pair of hands to apply gentle pressure on the outside as you pull the string away.<br>
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Rear is exactly the same as the front, don't forget to rermove the heater connections <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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The quarters are fairly straightforward. If your frame is good, open the quarterlight, apply some washing up liquid onto the seal and firmly pull the glass away, wiggling at the same time. When the glass is out, replace the seal, push the glass firmly back in. I have the little triangle to replace on my drivers quarter light as well, although I do have a new rust free russet door, I'm not going to fit that just yet, as I am planning on going for a full repaint next year. I'll get photos of the glass going back in, but thats not going to be for a couple of weeks I should imagine.<br>
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Thinking again about the rear screen upper panel, I might contact a few of the guys who are breaking Dollys on ebay. If they are going to kill the cars anyway, I have no moral dilemma with using some parts to keep another on the road.

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[Leeroy ORG 27R]

I'll have a good look at mine(the old one) if it's not that bad, (seen your old one), you can have it. Texas Grinders Massacre!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[redrichie]

Leeroy, I'm not sure what you mean...my rear screen is fine, the blobs on it are wax drips, dust, and general smeg from the repairs i'm doing. If you mean you have a panel...then i'm more than interested.<br>
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Anyway....following on from the cleaned up scuttle:<br>
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I filled the hole with aluminium double bond (after putting a healthy amount of wax and rust preventer inside the panel), then smoothed it using water and my finger after letting it go off for an hour, then left it overnight to harden fully. Next up is the P38....<br>
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<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/6504 ... lle4is.jpg" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
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After this has been smoothed off, i used three types of primer. the first one is zinc oxide primer, to prevent rust on any explosed metal left after the smoothing, then some yellow filler primer. The filler primer is a really thick paint, which can be rubbed down again when you see blemishes as you apply it. I had to do three coats/rubbing back down on this section before I was happy.<br>
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<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/4879 ... tle0ye.jpg" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
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Next up, two layers of red oxide primer.<br>
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<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img425.imageshack.us/img425/9476 ... tle8yt.jpg" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
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And finally two layers of top coat. Note the paint in this image is still wet, and obviously hasn't been flatted back, as explained yesterday.<br>
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<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img429.imageshack.us/img429/898/ ... tle1pd.jpg" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END-->

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[redrichie]

Well, hell I thought, it's Friday, and why not break out the welder for some sexy A Pillar action. As i mentioned earlier, this had been "repaired" using Aluminium Tape and what looked suspiciously like chewing gum.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> I had cut the grot out already, all that was waiting to happen was for me to grow some gonads and plug the Mig in.<br>
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I had been mulling over this problem for a while. It needs to be structurally strong, not particularly pretty, but I must be able to open and close the door. So i stuck an L section inside, a square patch on the wing side, then a patch shaped like a banana around the bend, starting where the old join from post to roof pillar is, and finishing just above the courtesy light switch, where there is a box section.<br>
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In all honesty, my welding skills are firmly in the "functional but not pretty". They aren't going to win any prizes for neatness, but I'm 100% confident that the roof isn't going to drop on my head next time it rains.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ns/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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I ground down the welds, and smoothed it all off with Aluminium DB putty. Now only myself, the dolly club, and the whole of the internet will know how untidy the welds were....<br>
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<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/5552 ... ep20py.jpg" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
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The off-side A post is next, i'll try to remember to get some pics of the welds before the cosmetic tidy up begins. Loads done this week, I'm taking the weekend off <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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[davepoth]

Ah, I understand which bit of the A-post you mean now...<br>
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That bit <!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>was</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--> rotten on my car. I wonder what it will look like when I pick it up.<br>
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Shamefully, it's also rusty on my R-Reg fiesta.

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[redrichie]

Dave, a Fiesta deserves it though...<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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I'm drawing a blank with the guys breaking cars on ebay...does anyone know of a reputable breaker who might be able to supply the rear screen upper surround?

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[Silvery]

Adam probably had that A post bit left over from the front end I flogged him - Not sure it's an area you can really hit Novas or garages with normally!<br>
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I'm pretty sure the rear section of my old roof is going to be fubar now, as it's at the bottom of a skip full of metal. And getting everything out the skip is going to be a challenge, if only because people will no doubt moan to soddery.<br>
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Now, here's an offer of sorts...<br>
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I have a very rotten (chassis legs, outer sills, boot floor, wings, rear inner arches, lower front panel...) car I want to restore, but to be honest will never have the time, money or most of all facilities to do. If someone wanted it to restore it, they could have it as complete as it currently stands (missing one door, brake master, bumpers and various interior bits like seats). If someone wanted to chop various sections out of it to use as repair panels, they could have the shell for free if they took it complete, but I'd want to drop the mechanicals off to sell or use on the auto TC.<br>
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I know it's highly unlikely I'll get anyone interested either way, and I'd far rather see it restored as it was the nicest Dolly I've ever driven, but circumstance has very much gone against me and a little realism has to be faced once in a while <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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So, if you can get down here and pick the shell up, it's yours to cut up as you wish - Obviously I'll have a good poke around at the metalwork you'd be wanting off it before going any further with the plan, if by some miracle you're interested! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[redrichie]

Thats really generous of you. There are two Dollys here being restored (mine and Bens, new club member who came to the Triumph show with me), so I'm sure anything saveable would be saved. Between us we have a "fair amount" of storage space, just have to keep my boss sweet of course, so all the saved parts could be kept indefinately and redistributed to other club members. I'll have to speak to Ben on monday about it, and of course this will give you time to change your mind.<br>
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Where are you located Silvery?<br>
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[Jon Tilson]

but surely it would be worth getting a pack of those disposable seat covers and sticking them on those nice looking tan seats....<br>
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Overspray goes a long way...and its damn hard to get off seats when dryed out...<br>
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Jonners

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[redrichie]

The front seat covers are in pretty poor state anyway, just general wear and tear. The back seat is in good nick, and I'll probably be stripping the interior very soon to check for other nasty areas..... and I have a full black interior waiting in my mothers garage to be fitted <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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