clutch master cyl sprint

[denis thompson]

I am having still having clutch problems (1977 Sprint) have replaced complete clutch and installed new seals in master and slave cyl. Problem is engaging gears especialy reverse.<br>
My next step is to look at the master cyl. Any recommendations for a supplier. Is the sprint master cyl the only model or is there another triumph model that would fit<br>
Denis<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[MaddMart]

Check the clutch cross shaft arm (part no. 158168 ). These are prone to bending after a while or the holes elongating.

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[maso]

I have always had clutch problems with my Sprint. <br>
<br>
Very few people I know can drive it (the best ever theft device). Engaging gear is a major problem. <br>
<br>
After rebuilding the motor, I thought to refit a new clutch and bearing. Still the same.<br>
<br>
I have filled up the gearbox with better quality oil, fitted a slave cyclinder and swore at it !! But still to no avail.<br>
<br>
I have drove one other Sprint and found that hard too but not as bad. Does everyone else face the same problem ?

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[alun n]

Sounds like trapped air possibly. When bleeding you need to push the piston fully into the slave to expel all air. its also best to have the feed to the slave in the bottom union and the bleed nipple in the top one. Could also be the flexi-pipe getting weak and swelling as you put the pressure on, or as Mart says the cross shaft - I've seen many welded up at the end of the arm. <br>
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[BDN712V]

Just try bleeding it again - didn't seem to manage to get all the air out of mine which leads to the same problrm. To see if this is the case, try stamping ont he clutch pedal repeatedly for a while, with the reservoir lid off, then try engaging gear. If it is easier, then it had some air in.<br>
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The only proble with this is that the air still needs removing.....<br>
<br>
Tim

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[redalan1971]

There is various reasons possible for this ,check for wear on the pivit pins at the clutch pedal and on the slave operating arm, one of my sprints now sports an early tr6 master cylinder solved my problems and was only £50 quid. <br>
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[Jon Tilson]

it isnt rocket science....<br>
If you havent already done so do the seal kits in both master and slave. The small recuperating seal at the end of the master piston springy bit is VERY important.<br>
Then the bleed nipple on the slave must be at the highest point to allow all trapped air to be expelled in the bleeding process. As I havent had to do a Sprint one for 10 years (smug git) I forget the best method but various techniques from raising rear wheels to actually taking slave off the car and holding piston in with G glamp will do the job. If it doesnt bleed in about 5 pumps there is something wrong. My last arse in this department was a Spit slave with a bit of seal rubber blocking the bleed nipple...good eh? No fluid coming out and pressurising nicely.....<br>
Note the above points on the cross shaft too....new one on the bay cheap...but in Cornwall...<br>
<br>
Jonners

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[paulgeering]

John T is quite correct. They always have been a complete pig to bleed correctly. The last time I tackled it I got a perfect result. It is not easy but take the damn slave off because this is the only way you will be able to get the bleed nipple above the front of the cylinder - unless of course you drive the car nose first into a pit in frustration! I removed mine, pulled it up into the engine bay and held it up above the level of the master cylinder. Refitting I could just manage to do up the nuts from the engine bay by reaching over the bell housing (yes long arms an advantage).<br>
<br>
For the future it is worth fitting a remote bleed in the engine bay. I believe Ted Middleton was the first to do this. I think he used a remote bleed off a montego or maestro.

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[george]

the first thing to do is check your idle speed<br>
then for air in system asuming this has been done<br>
recently as already said the best way to bleed them is with the slave cyl in the engine compartment <br>
the thing most people dont check when they do fit a replacment clutch are the sliper pads for the clutch fork this can cause poor selection problems<br>
also the end float on the crank

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[MaddMart]

Another problem which I had on one of my Sprints was the tapered bolt which holds the clutch fork to the shaft. This had sheared off so the fork was able to move on the shaft.

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[denis thompson]

I would like to thank you all for the advice some I have already tried but the slave off looks like a good try. I will also look at the hose for swelling.<br>
Thanks again<br>
Denis

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[BDN712V]

Does anyone know where I can obtain the internal spring for the master cylinder, as I managed to break one! Have replaced it with one from a spare master I had lying around, but want to replace that now!<br>
<br>
I've tried the usual outlets, but they either don't stock / can't obtain or haven't replied yet...<br>
<br>
PS - replace seals in cyliders if you have them apart. Saves a lot of time and hassle later and they don't exactly cost much...<br>
<br>
Tim

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