Sprint Prop

[ROB BIGGINS]

Doe's anyone know if it is possible to split the prop shaft to replace the centre bearing as a DIY job, or will i need specialist prop shaft outfit?<br>
<br>
If I cannot do it, has anyone any ideas of suitable places in the North West?<br>
<br>


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[KLJ895W]

You can do it yourself, but I'm not sure it's worth the aggro. If you go for it, make sure you mark how everything fits together.<br>
<br>
David

<p>1980 Sprint<br>
1980 1850HL with Sprint gearbox, propshaft and axle<br>
1972 VW Camper Van</p><i></i>

[ROB BIGGINS]

Thanks for the info David, do you know how to part the integeral universal joint with the rubber cover just behind the bearing carrier?<br>
<br>
I have not yet actually taken the prop off yet, so I maybe missing something obvious.<br>
<br>
Rob

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[Jon Tilson]

Ive never though of seperating the CV joint as a DIY task. It certainly needs a press to get it back together thats beyond my DIY skills.....unless the ever knowledgable Dave knows something I dont....?<br>
Ordinary Dolly u/j's are enough of a pain...<br>
<br>
Jonners

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[KLJ895W]

I'm having trouble remembering in my head exactly what I did. If anyone remembers the tale of my 1850, you'll know that the prop was already in two halves as the splines had pulled out of the cv.<br>
<br>
If I remember rightly, knocking off the ring which holds the larger end of the bellows and pulling the bellows back over the joint will reveal an internal circlip holding the cv in the shaft. After taking the joint out and dismantling it, the inner part can be removed from the other half of the shaft by removing a circlip holding it onto the splines. Make sure you mark everything so that the front and back of the propshaft keep the same angular relationship.<br>
<br>
I only did all this because the two halves had come apart and it needed putting back together. Assuming you had a worn cv, I don't know if the parts are available. I didn't replace the centre bearing so I'm not sure how much of this you would need to do for that job. I assume just taking the joint out of the rear half of the prop. I wish I'd taken pictures now.<br>
<br>
And yes Jonners UJs are a pain. A job I really hate, especially when one of the needle rollers falls into the bottom of the cup as you press it all back together.<br>
<br>
David

<p>1980 Sprint<br>
1980 1850HL with Sprint gearbox, propshaft and axle<br>
1972 VW Camper Van</p><i></i>

[dollysteve]

I`ve never really had a problem with UJ`s. The centre bearing is a bit a pain though. You need to undo the bolt that holds the yolk to the prop and then whack the yolk off of it`s splines, you will almost certainly need to heat it up and as a consequence you`ll most likely melat the rubbers around UJ cups, it`s best to do the centre bearing first, then do the UJ`s. Don`t forget to grease them once they are fitted though.

<p>1976 Dolomite 1850 HL Auto<br>
1979 Dolomite 1850 HL Man o/d<br>
1989 Noisy Mini 1340 <br>
1994 VW Golf GTI</p><i></i>

[Jon Tilson]

is that Propshaft Services in Feltham will still repair these Hooke type joints. WIth regard to removing the yoke...that only applies to sub Sprint prop shafts. Ive only ever done a couple and some plus gas and a few gentle taps with the old hide mallet did the job after getting out the split pin and undoing the nut. Must have been lucky.<br>
Jonners

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[paulgeering]

Northwest Propshafts in Trafford Park. Highly recommended. Will do joints, bearings and even balance if you want. Adverts in NW Auto Trader every week.

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[ROB BIGGINS]

Thanks for all your help, after a lot of hammering and banging at the weekend managed to get everything to go back together.<br>
<br>
Runs and drives a real treat now:<br>


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