Greasing prop shaft U/Js

[Richard the old one]

How often should we grease our prop shaft U/Js and the sliding joint?<br>
<br>
When I had a prop shaft overhauled I was told that the main cause of U/J failure was the fact that people failed to grease the joints regularly and the returned prop shaft was fitted with grease nipples..<br>
<br>
I can confirm that most if not all of the U/Js that have failed on my cars have been dry – No grease left.<br>
<br>
I am concerned about over greasing but I am assuming that if there is too much grease it will just push its way out past the rubber dirt seals. Am I correct in making this assumption? <br>
<br>
I have also notice that when I have attempted to grease a U/J that grease has come out of the nearest bearing seal to the grease nipple but that even if I carried on it would not come out of the other bearings.<br>
Hence I do question how good the grease way is at getting grease to each of the bearings.<br>


<p></p><i></i>

[Jon Tilson]

resistance...<br>
so what happesn is once you see grease coming out, its going to keep doing so unless you block that path. I cant see any way of doing that with a prop u/j.<br>
Auto's seem hardest on the u/js but evn then, Ive only ever had a diff end one fail, even with TR7 engines.<br>
WIth your ohv jobs I'd have thought they should last at least 50 k miles. Daughters learning to drive I suspect...<br>
hard on clutches, gearbox mounts and ...<br>
prop u/js.<br>
<br>
Jonners

<p></p><i></i>

[Richard the old one]

Hi Jon<br>
<br>
I would guess that your 50k miles would be about right. When I have time I must go through my records and see what it works out to be. <br>
<br>
Between them the family cars did about 35k miles last year so I am expecting to have to change another U/J before too long. I have found on the 1500 it is the rear U/J that takes the most wear and I am assuming this is because it has more movement than the others.<br>
<br>
In the past I have not been very good at greasing them but having been told that they should be greased regularly I thought that I would see what the feeling was on the board.

<p></p><i></i>

[BDN712V]

Sorry to hijack, but on similar lines, how much difference does it make when reconning a propshaft, to get it balanced afterwards (assuming it goes back together in the same alignment as it started off)?<br>
<br>
Just got hold of a new centre bearing (hint: try unipart or similar stockists - it's amazing what they have in their stores!!) and need to redo the joints as they've never been touched, and are a little loose!<br>
<br>
Tim

<p></p><i></i>

[2F45T4U]

If the weights on them aren't going to be touched is there any need atall?

<p></p><i></i>

[Richard the old one]

I have lost count of the number of U/Js that I have replaced over the years without getting the propshaft’s rebalanced. The official Triumph workshop manual just has a note that states. “When new universal joints are fitted, mark the flange relative to the yoke and ensure that the units are replaced as they were removed. Failure to do so may result in the prop balance being affected.”<br>
<br>
When it comes to replacing the old U/J my local expert was dead against the normal method, which is shown in the Haynes manual and which I have used in the past of using two sockets to push the cups out. The reason being that the cup that is being pressed in actually comes out of the yoke and when you attempt to get it out by pressing it back in this can damage the yoke. He advised me that the correct method is as stated in the Triumph workshop manual which is to tap the yokes to eject the bearing cups. I was surprised how easily he was able to do this when he demonstrated the method to me. He complained that the local college was teaching students the two socket method.<br>
<br>
The local expert also pointed out to me that when you fit a new U/J if it is the type that can be fitted with a grease nipple you need to look at the Yokes to find where they have been cut away to allow for the grease nipple to be fitted. It is quite hard to spot and I had not noticed this until it was pointed out to me. This fact is not covered in either the Haynes or official Triumph workshop manual. If you get it wrong it is possible to fit a grease nipple but it is harder it get at. As you will have read I am somewhat concerned about over greasing if a grease nipple is fitted as the official Triumph workshop manual states that the cups should only contain one third full of an approved lubricant. However as I previously stated I am assuming that any excess would seep out pass the dust cover and as far as I can remember all the units that have failed have been dry, grease gone so I am not going to grease the U/Js (and the sliding joint) an hope for the best. <br>
<br>
If you are replacing the central bearing or taking the sliding joint apart to clean and regrease it you need to make certain that you mark both half’s clearly before you take them apart so that you can get the splines aligned exactly as they were when you put the unit back together. The replacement of the central bearing is not covered in either the Haynes or the Official Triumph repair manual but is quite straight forward to do and is a common source of noise as the bearing grease dries out over the years or the rubber mount splits.<br>
<br>
It is surprising what you can get at Partco but I was also surprised to find recently that they did not now stock rear brake shoes for a 1500. What did a new central bearing cost at Partco?<br>


<p></p><i></i>

[sprintingaround]

Hi Richard,<br>
<br>
Can you give me any tips of disassembling the propshaft to replace the centre bearing mounting as I am struggling to figure this out.<br>
<br>
Any Help Much Appreciated<br>
<br>
thanks

<p></p><i></i>

[Richard the old one]

I should have stated that I have only worked on 1500cc prop shafts if you want info on this type I will have a look at one over the weekend to remind me of the process.

<p></p><i></i>

[BDN712V]

£23 ish!<br>
Tim

<p></p><i></i>