Dipped beam switch...

[BDN712V]

Driving home at the w/e, trying to switch back to main beam resulted in blackness. Upon inspection it turned out that the switch had had it!<br>
<br>
Which brings me swiftly on to my discovery! Landrover (certainly series vehicles, possibly defenders, 90s and 110s) have the same SWITCH, but with a different arm (and they're a heck of a lot cheaper). The only downside is that you will have to wire them in as opposed to just plugging them in.<br>
<br>
Does anyone know if it is possible to exchange the stalks on these switches so it looks the part?? Otherwise it works very well!<br>
<br>
Tim

<p></p><i></i>

[alun n]

Usually happens because headlights have been uprated without a relay being used and the stalk switch simply isn't up to the increased load. I'd check your lamps and see if they are standard, if not, I'd line in a relay.<br>
<br>
Don't know about swaping the stalks, but you can swap the plugs if you have the right tool. If you want a matching pair simply swap the wiper one to Landy too.

<p></p><i></i>

[Carl]

These are a common failure because Triumph were too mean to use relays to switch all that current, instead relying on the farty little contacts at the switch to conduct 10 amps, give or take (in fact, I was led to believe that they reduced the power of the main beams so that the switch wouldn't fail so often !). The permanent solution is to wire in relays to remove the load from the switch.

<p></p><i></i>

[Silvery]

I've got approx 310W coming off the front of the car.. Might be time to fit that relay I've got kicking about then!<br>
<br>
I use a bent old watchmakers screwdriver, or shank of a small pop rivet to get the pins out the plastic plugs, works fine <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Re the Landy ones - Are they a straight swap in terms of mountings? I've been trying to find something that'll fit straight onto the column for future reference <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i></i>

[BDN712V]

The landy one is a straight swap in terms of mounting, just the wiring to the plug that needs adjustment as the plug is different and the length of cable is different. I just cut and joined them up as it was intended to be a tempory affair...<br>
<br>
The lights are standard, and it wasn't the contacts that had died, but rather the plastic attached to the contacts that had become brittle. Will give the relays a go at some point soon though as it makes far more sense!<br>
<br>
Will let you know how I get on with swapping the stalks over - my brother's got a good supply of land bits!!<br>
<br>
Tim

<p></p><i></i>

[Richard the old one]

As I now look after four 1500hl dolomites I have had a number of these switches fail but there is one common failure that can easily be corrected.<br>
<br>
Look at the rivet where the red/blue cable connects to on the switch. You may find that it looks ok but that it is not making contact. All that may be needed is to tighten up the rivet, an alternative that I have used is to drill out the rivet and fit a small nut and bolt.<br>
<br>
I hope this solves the problem<br>
<br>
Richard

<p></p><i></i>

[BDN712V]

Unfortunately it wasn't this (it was the first thing I tried). It is a broken piece of plastic linking the contacts so that one set doesn't move in one direction when it should. Terminal by the looks of it.<br>
<br>
Still, I will strip it down now I've got the landy one that works, and attempt to rebuild it so I've got a spare...<br>
Tim

<p></p><i></i>

[SprintV8]

Anyone now where the wire's and where should they should go to,<br>
Have relay marked Lucas 6RA,<br>
C1.<br>
C2.<br>
W1.<br>
W2.<br>
I take you it you do the Main Beam Only.<br>
<br>
No instruction's<br>
so no Brain?.

<p></p><i></i>

[Silvery]

You trying to use the relay to simply get a low power circuit to switch on a high power circuit?<br>
<br>
Simplest thing to do is to get a 12v feed. Connect live to one leg, neg to another, until you get a click. Then get a multimeter, or bulb with a bit of wire and a battery, and see if the two other legs are passing through power. Then disconnect the wires that made it click, and see if there's still a continuous circuit on the other 2 legs. If there is, then it ain't right!<br>
<br>
Hope some of that made sense - All a relay is is an electric switch - So so long as you get the on/off bit right, you're fine.<br>
<br>
Alternately, you could try doing it the proper way, there's bound to be a website somewhere with the instructions <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i></i>

[speedracer]

The PO fitted halogen lights with relays and also modified the indicator stalk to use a micro switch to turn on high beam.<br>
<br>
I'll have to take some pics of the setup.<br>
<br>
speedracer

<p></p><i></i>

[SprintV8]

British German DIN Italian <br>
C1 87 A To Light's ETC.<br>
C2 30 B Live 12volt's<br>
W1 85 P Earth<br>
W2 86 No Letter or No From Light Switch <br>
<br>
It took me ages to find just thought I'll share it with you all.

<p></p><i></i>