Wiper motor problem

[Mike L Taylor]

Hallo Dolly boffins,<br>
<br>
Has anyone else suffered with this one? - When I switch off my wipers, they stop at whereever they might be in the sweep, rather than return to the park position. I have had the wiper motor out of the scuttle, disconnected the linkage and reconnected the leccy juice. Lo and behold, the the motor continues on until the park position is reached. I can see this as I have taken off the cover from the teethed ring.<br>
However, when I replace the motor in the scuttle and reconnect the wiper linkage under the dash and switch the wipers on, they again stop in mid sweep. I had made sure that the wipers were already in the park position before connecting the linkage to the wiper spindle. Any ideas??<br>
<br>
Also - might sound a daft question but, when fitting the oil cooler, do I fill up with a bit more oil to maintain the oil level on the dipstick to compensate? When starting up for the first time with the cooler and additional pipework fitted, do I try to fill them with oil somehow first or would the pump actually push the oil around immediately - then top up with oil?<br>
<br>


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[davepoth]

somewhere or other it should say the capacity of the cooler. Add a bit for the pipes and stick it in the top. give it a crank, see where the level is on the dipstick, then top up as normal.

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[djw113uk]

Nearly back on the road again then Mike?<br>
<br>
I seem to remember wiper parking problems on one of mine some time ago. I sort of remember changing the stalk sorted it, but no idea why now. Or, Are you sure under the different angle the motor is sat at when not mounted to the car the trigger isnt being opperated better than when it is mounted on the bulkhead. <br>
<br>
Do you have a thermostat on the oil cooler? I would definately try and get some oil into it with or without the thermostat else at some point you will have a huge lag of oil as it fills!<br>
<br>
<br>


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[Mike L Taylor]

Thanks Dave

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[Mike L Taylor]

Hallo David,<br>
<br>
Hope things are well with you. Car is back on the road but have only done a run to Seaton (Devon) and back but hope to get it ready for a long run up to Skipton (Yorks) early in<br>
October and tour the Dales.<br>
<br>
Re the wipers - not sure how the angle of the motor in or out of the car would affect the parking. If the teethed wheel which is turned by the threaded spindle (driven by the motor) actually returns to the parked position when not connected to the linkages then surely it should when it is connected.<br>
<br>
Re the cooler, I haven't got a stat on the cooler just the new oil pump cover with the unions, rubber hosing and the cooler.<br>
How essential is the stat?<br>
<br>
Am just legging out to the club meet now but will try to check back when I return.<br>
<br>
Mike

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[Stan Part]

Yes, I had this years ago and Member Steve Grace sorted it (are you still out there Steve?)<br>
<br>
My problem was that I'd fitted a new radio antenna to the front wing and when threading the coax through it had got caught in the wiper arm mechanism, I simply undone the nut on the end of the motor (from inside the car) and unthreaded the coax, put it all back together and had the same problem of the non parking wipers.<br>
<br>
Cut a very long story short:<br>
<br>
There is a very thin spacer/washer which goes between the wiper arm mechanism (under the dash) and the nut that bolts it back onto the motor, this falls out when you undo the nut (and is painted black so falls onto the parcel shelf and makes itself invisible) it actuates the self parking mechanism and without it you get all the problems described.<br>
<br>
Steve (God bless you) sent me one through the post and once fitted everything returned to normal.<br>
<br>
I found the original washer some 6 months later.<br>
<br>
This I can guarantee is your problem too, get yourself a thin washer, put it in- job's a good 'un.<br>
<br>
ALAN

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[Jon Tilson]

I'd replied to this last night...but somehow the post got lost.<br>
The wiper park mechanism has its own seperate power feed, which goes direct from the fuse box and bypasses the wiper switch. Its a green lead from the fuse box. Have a look at the wiring diagram and its obvious. Clean the fuse contacts and it will propably burst in to life again. I hear what the other say about washers etc too so one or other of us will give the solution. My money is on the feed...dirty contact.<br>
<br>
Jonners

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[Stan Part]

Yes good idea.<br>
<br>
If I remember correctly (this was 10+ years ago) the washer actuates a small switch which pokes through the bulkhead, the reason Mike's motor works on the bench and not in the car is bacause when on the bench the switch is actuated by gravity, when on the car it hangs down and nothing to push it up to actuate it.

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[Mike L Taylor]

Thanks Alan & Jonners. New there would be someone out there who knew the bizz. If it is the washer problem then I do have the thin wavy washer fitted between the nut and the spindle. If not then the wiring is def worth a look as according to my local Lucas agent they were going to charge me c £45 per hour to look at it! And often as electrical problems are not always obvious, this could run up a hefty bill. Will get back on any success (or not!)

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[Mike L Taylor]

Mike calling David (unless anyone else can answer)<br>
<br>
Re the bit about the oil cooler stat. Is this necessary and if so what sort of costs and fitting is required

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[djw113uk]

Mike,<br>
<br>
I havent managed to fit an oil cooler yet, but we do have one ready to go on a sprint one day. Have never been 100% of their advantage if you are not thrashing the car on a track.<br>
<br>
The stat means the oil isnt cooled on winter days and means the oil isnt kept unnecessarily thick (cold). With your's being a mostly "fair weather" car that is kind of irrelevant usuallly for you? <br>
<br>
I have heard that you will probably want an uprated oil pressure spring, to keep the pressure what is was, as the pump is having to push it further.<br>
<br>
My main concern with fitting a stat is that you have lovely good oil pressure, then the oil reaches temperature and the stat opens. For a brief moment you have "no" oil pressure as the coller is charged with oil again.<br>
<br>
I guess its pros and cons, but with my brother's car doing 20-25k / year with no oil cooler at all and 40-60psi hot we are leaving well alone for the moment. I also dont have the connecting pipes yet. <br>
<br>
A stat is about £30 quid I think. Rimmers, or maybe Chris Witor is closer for you?<br>
<br>
If it is mostly for shows I probably wouldnt fit a cooler at all, and in a fair weather car I guess you dont need the stat, But will it increase engine wear during the warm up period as the oil will take far longer to get hot...<br>
<br>
Someone else tell me the answers?<br>
<br>


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[djw113uk]

Forgot the fitting bit.... Assuming you have jubilee clipped pipes you just need to cut them and put the stat in between the take of plate and the oil cooler. (4 extra jubilee clips)<br>
<br>
Flanged hoses will be more complicated obviously, but I have never seen a screwed fitting on an oil stat

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[Mike L Taylor]

Good point re the cooling in the winter. I have actually fitted the cooler to the front a/r bar using two jubiliee clips through the mounting holes and around the bar, with the hose connection part actually resting on the front spoiler/front valance. The pipes are routed in the space here and up under the battery to meet up with the oil transfer cap. The hoses, although rubber, have the proper union fittings as standard so any stat would require the hose to be split and the stat put in line.<br>
<br>
I'll try to get an uprated pressure spring although that now means I'll have to raise the engine to get access to the pump bolts (bloody nuisance that is!). I tend not to do as many shows nowadays but do like to do long runs <br>
mainly to Nottingham and want to use it more on long runs to Yorkshire and maybe Pompey and thought anything to keep the engine cooler must be worth it.<br>
Hopefully, If the warm up takes place while the car is stationery then perhaps the risk of premature wear is reduced?<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>


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[Triumph1300]

Having read the previous link, I'm a tad concerned as to how long your cooler will survive, especially if the pipe mountings are rubbing on something.<br>
Mounting to the ARB is a no no. That bar moves under braking, and accelerating. The cooler will move with it, and that movement will be amplified over the height of the cooler. I really would suggest making some brackets up, and mounting in the same location, but by another means.<br>
The other thing is, why fit a stronger spring?<br>
The cooler should not restrict flow, if it does, the galleries aren't big enough.<br>
If the oil is cooler, the pressure will be higher anyway.<br>
My recommendation, based upon running rally cars in the eighties is DON'T uprate the spring, and definitely fit a thermostat.<br>
Finally, don't forget every oil change, to break the cooler pipe joints, and if necessary, invert it to drain, otherwise, you will have up to a quart of old oil, still in the circuit.<br>
<br>
BWJ<br>
<br>


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[Mike L Taylor]

Thanks BWJ. When fitting the cooler on the ARB, I stuck a couple of thin-ish strips of rubber around the ARB where the jubiliee clips would go before feeding the clips through the two sets of mounting holes, rejoined the clips and tightened up. The unions at the cooler end don't foul or touch anything and the hoses rest inside the front valance before feeding up into the bay under the battery and between it and the alternator. Must admit didn't think that the movement of the ARB would be that serious. If fitting the cooler where it is just behind the spoiler/front valance - which I think will get a reasonable but not direct flow of air - the options on how to fit a suitable bracket are a bit limited but will have lay on my back again and have a think about it.<br>
<br>
Re the spring, this was DJW's suggestion which I havent<br>
yet pursued and the stat I am investigating.

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