Ballast resistor

[AndyS]

Sorry if this might have been covered before but......<br>
<br>
I changed the coil today for s sports version which has a ballist resistor. Now the one I took off doesn't have one, the question is.<br>
<br>
The new coil says it needs the resistor (even though the car runs fine without it) will I have to put it on?<br>
<br>
cheers<br>
<br>
Andy

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... omiteuk</A> at: 16/10/06 3:07 pm<br></i>

[Malc]

Strange, the 'Ballast' resister is normally in the loom on a Sprint. Jonners is our man on electrics, but IIRC the Sprint coil gets reduced battery voltage when running, only getting the full voltage on cranking.

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[Carsreunited]

Isn't the correct sports coil for the Sprint the Lucas DLB105 which doesn't have the ballast resistor?<br>
<br>
Scott

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[AndyS]

Ahh it may well be in the loom but the diagram stumped me as it states the resistor should be mounted with the coil.<br>
<br>
I ordered the coil a while back from Rimmers. They sent me a Supergold coil (part number XIC8033) but on the diagram, it does state ....<br>
<br>
Ref. 8033 Cold start coil with Ballast resistor.<br>
<br>
Dunno if that helps.<br>
<br>
Anyroad, took the car for a spin, seems fine and there is a mrked improvment. Just worried that it might cave in at some point or take out my electrics! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START : --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ohwell.gif ALT=":"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Carl]

As Malc says, the ballast resistor is part of the loom. If your new coil needs the ballast, just make sure that you've connected the pink/white lead to the coil (+ve side) and you should be OK. My '75 Sprint is currently fitted with a Lucas Gold coil DLB110 which requires the ballast resistor so I know this works (ie haven't burnt it out yet <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> )

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[Jon Tilson]

Err that depends. An early 1850 and maybe a Sprint too (never had a really early one) has a seperate balast resistor that sits by the coil. In either case the feed from the starter solenoid bypassses this resistor for starting only. Its important that for long coil life you dont exceed its rated voltage or it will pass too much current and overheat....also bad for your points and condensor. You need to measure the voltage at the coil + or non points side with ignition switched on. It may be 12 volts unbalasted or IIRC 9 volts for balasted so the resistor drops 3 V.<br>
<br>
Jonners

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[AndyS]

Jon,<br>
<br>
my Sprint is one of the last to be built so whats the best check to see whether or not I need to put the resistor on?<br>
<br>
Like I said, she is driving well without the resistor atm but then, I haven't been on a long run as yet.<br>
<br>
I must say, it is very confusing when the instructions are relating to Vauxhalls!!! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[SprintV8]

Best check with a voltmeter,<br>
On starting from cold there should be 12Volt's+<br>
Higher Voltage Bigger Spark.<br>
<br>
When running should be 6/9 Volt's can't remembed which,<br>
Don't run 12Volt's when 2nd test shows lower voltage,<br>
You'll burn your Electric's out quicker.<br>
<br>
On the Later Dolomite/Sprint the Ballest wire is in the loom and look's like a normal cable/wire.

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[Jon Tilson]

its almost certainly in the loom. As V8 says you cna check woth a voltmeter....you should see 9 volts IIRC on the + side of the coil with ignition on....and 12V elsewhere.....nominal figures cos when the alternator is charging most of the circuits are at 14V or so and the coil is dropped proportionally. You should see less at the coil + than at the battery + say. I think the inline resistor is only 1.5 ohms. Its in the book.<br>
Jonners

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[AndyS]

Jon,<br>
<br>
bit confusing.....<br>
<br>
5v with ignition on at the + coil.<br>
<br>
Between 9v and 10v (give or take .5v as my meter is old) when engine running.<br>
<br>
13v at battery at all times.<br>
<br>
How does that sound?<br>
<br>
Just to add, I've now lost ignition light and handbrake lights on first stage ignition. Changed the bulbs (what a horrible job) in the light cluster and still nothing....any ideas?

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub52.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdol ... b>AndyS</A>  <IMG HEIGHT=10 WIDTH=10 SRC="http://hometown.aol.co.uk/ASkop01/myhomepage/car1a.gif" BORDER=0> at: 12/4/04 6:57 pm<br></i>

[Jon Tilson]

The only reason I can think why you would see 5V on one side of the coil is that you have duff points and you are looking at the points side. If you think about it it on the coil +...non points side...you should always have the coil running voltage and 5V isnt high enough.<br>
You should see 13.2V on a static good lead acid battery and this goes up to about 14-15V when the alternator is charging, If it doesnt then your alterantor isnt charging.<br>
As to why the lights dont work....its a feed problem and the feed comes from the ignition switch and goes IIRC via the fuse box...a common source of bad contacts.<br>
Have a look at the wiring diagram.<br>
Jonners

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[AndyS]

had a good luck today using the diagram. <br>
<br>
15v at the battery when engine is running and 9v at the coil.<br>
<br>
With just the ignition on, 12v at the connector when disconnected from the coil, 5v when connected(???)....very strange. The car runs great so I don't understand.<br>
<br>
Lights? still to trace the ignition one (do that tomorrow) but found the handbrake connector to switch loose. FIXED!

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