Blown fuses - overdrive wiring short circuit

[davepoth]

Got my new filter cover and fuses in the post today, and put them on the car. Everything worked fine, so I drove it to the garage to get new springs.<br>
<br>
On the way home from the garage the fuse went again. I had four extra fuses with me, so I managed to get home OK, but this is not something I want to be repeating that often. Is there an obvious place I should go looking for a short in the circuit that the indicators and tacho are on, or am I going to have to test the whole lot?

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... omiteuk</A> at: 20/10/06 10:45 am<br></i>

[Chris Field]

What are you doing / trying to do at the moment the fuse blows? (eg:engage o/d, switch on HRS etc)

<p></p><i></i>

[davepoth]

First time it was switching in the OD, second time it was doing a wipe of the screen with a push of the stalk. Any ideas?

<p></p><i></i>

[Chris Field]

What is the rating (amps) of the fuse that ws blown?<br>


<p></p><i></i>

[Jon Tilson]

chafed wires shorting out in the gearstick. Its always the stick....see my other post.<br>
As to the cure well usually changing the loom in the stick works. Moss have them in stock. You could look for obvious chafing along the box too but in all my years its always the stick...either just at the bottom of the switch where a dim PO has just pushed the switch down rather that gently pulling wires from the bottom...or where the loom kinks thru the hole.<br>
<br>
Jonners

<p></p><i></i>

[alun n]

.....one of the gearstick switch connectors touching the metal casing; just needs bending carefully inwards a tad. I had this problem before (not on PRO I hasten to add) where everytime I engaged overdrive I received a belter of a shock through the metal of the steering wheel. <br>
<br>
Finally fixed it when the fuses started to blow each time as well causing minor inconvenience.....up until then I was enjoying it<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i></i>

[davepoth]

There is somewhat of a chafing noise when shifting the gears. How do I get to the offending wire(s)?

<p></p><i></i>

[Jon Tilson]

If you live anywhere near west london I suggest you bring it here. Moss are only up the road with wires in stock and its only about an hours labour...<br>
email me if u like...<br>
jpt at bluyonder dot co dot uk<br>
Jonners

<p></p><i></i>

[davepoth]

I'm all the way down in bath. I've got a Moss about 20 mins away in Bristol, so if the weather's good this saturday I might give it a go. Anything I should look out for?

<p></p><i></i>

[Jon Tilson]

First establish if its the stick loom. Remove o.d. switch from stick nob. It just pops off with a screwdriver in the slot for it. Be careful they are hard to source now. Then u should see the connectors. If they look in good nick you will need to check for damage at the bottom. Assuming its crap at the top, you next need to get the nob off...unscrew the chrome collar nut at the bottom of the nob from the nob...ie turn it clockwise as u look from the top....half a turn is all u need, This frees off the slotted collar inside the nob. Tease this out by unscrewing it with a fine screw driver. Then the nob slots off. Then take off the tunnel tray (3 screws) and gear lever gaiter assy complete and the wires in all their gory detail will be yours to see. Pull em out from the bottom if they are shot. Replace in reverse manner, thru hole in bottom. If u misalign the top connectors it makes it a bit easier to thread the new wires up the stick.<br>
Its a pain getting the new one in but the technique comes with practice. Lower end joins on with bullets. Check rest of box loom for fraying etc while in there.<br>
Good idea to regrease base of lever while the tray is out...works wonders on a stiff change.<br>
<br>
Jonners<br>
<br>


<p></p><i></i>

[alun n]

Sounds like you need to purchase a copy of the workshop manual on CD rom.........I believe there will be some on sale at Stoneleigh on Sunday with a percentage of the proceeds going to the club spares fund<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i></i>

[davepoth]

I need to go to stonleigh to fix the car, but I need to fix the car to go to stoneleigh...<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :| --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ferent.gif ALT=":|"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i></i>

[davepoth]

Got the gear knob off, and found that the original wiring has been replaced with 2 core electrical flex and insulating tape. Shoddy though BL were, I find it unlikely they wuld have chosen these things to build cars from. Does anybody have the part number for the gearstick loom?

<p></p><i></i>

[SprintV8]

Overdrive Harness<br>
R##mers Part Number 159613<br>


<p></p><i></i>

[davepoth]

Rimmers is the next thing to try.<br>
<br>
The moss item had the wrong connectors at both ends, and was still a piece of domestic electrical flex. For £5.90!<br>
<br>
Looks like Stoneleigh is out for this year.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i></i>