DOLLY SPRINT STARTER MOTOR REPLACEMENT

[hez37]

Help! I'm going to change the knackered starter on my sprint next weekend (28.2.04). The manual suggests it's a walk in the park but a friend has said that access to the nuts & bolts will be the killer.<br>
<br>
Do I allocate half an hour for the job or will it be a full day? Any advice from anybody who's changed one will be appreciated.

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[MaddMart]

Probably take you about an hour. 2 of the bolts aren't to difficult to get at, but the top one is a bit of a bu**er. You will need a long extension bar to get to it. Have fun. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Carl]

You can get at the top bolt using a 3/8ths drive socket (9/16ths) plus extension bars totalling about 18 inches. I'd be wary of doing this job if you need the car the next day. I discovered that the PO had used three studs instead of the usual two. The only way you can fit the starter like this is with the engine out and exhaust manifold removed. It took me two days of prying, jemmying, and hammering to get it off, not to mention most of my entire repertoire of 'harsh language' <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START >: --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ns/mad.gif ALT=">:"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> . Without 'complications' like this, I reckon an hour would be about right.

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[hez37]

I've now got no worries about having the car going as I've just made my other car roadworthy (it's a 70's BMW 525). I had to buy 8 brake bleed nipples for the princly sum of £37 as the previous owner rounded the lot of them (you don't know the pain I've been through to remove these!) - also I bought a 5.7mm drill bit and a 7mm UNP courSe tap, what a pain in the a**e!n<br>
<br>
If you own only one older car you make any excuse to keep it off the road. I'm a firm beleiver that you should always own 2 older cars. Any comments?<br>
Do any of you guys own a newy?

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[Jod Clark]

Current fleet:<br>
<br>
1792 Stag<br>
1980 1500HL Dolly<br>
1999 Peugeot 406<br>
<br>
Jod

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[alun n]

......unless you have an early car (2) there should bethree studs and three nuts. Quite right about the three eighths drive (preferably with a wobble bar) to get at the top 'un though. <br>
<br>
You can do this job from the top without jacking up the car, and you can do it in half an hour start to finish.<br>
<br>
I have a good source of fully recon starters at the mo, £45 exchange........get 'em whilst you can!!! apparently the solenoids are nla!

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[Carsreunited]

Are the old ones any good to the people who recon them? I have one which is definitely knackered and won't be needing it as I'll be getting a Hi Torx starter motor instead.<br>
<br>
Cheers.<br>
<br>
<br>
Scott

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[Carl]

Alan, early ? late ? I've only ever seen two studs. Since the two obviously don't mix there must be visible differences somewhere so what are they ? Maybe this is why so many people have had problems in the past. All I do know is that after replacing the top stud with a bolt the starter is now really easy to fit/remove. (it's a 'late' engine too !). Don't you ever sleep ! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Malc]

In the parts manual, it looks as though on Manual models, Studs are used, on Auto models, a mixture of Studs & Bolts. Add to that Auto to Man conversions, engine swops and aftermarket home based design mods and I would say you might find any combination you care to think of including some drilling & re-tapping to metric <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ns/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> . From memory, whenever i've done the job, it has always been a 3 stud job, all mine have been Manual trans.<br>
<br>
Hate to think what holds it all together on XAA, I have two invioces that came with the car<br>
Remove SM, Tap out broken stuf fixing £62.28<br>
Fit New SM, studs & fixings £267.90<br>
Total £330.18 <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :x --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/sick.gif ALT=":x"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :x --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/sick.gif ALT=":x"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :x --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/sick.gif ALT=":x"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :x --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/sick.gif ALT=":x"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Think that was the last straw, owner bailed out an along I came <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[alun n]

2 into 3 does go<br>
<br>
The two types are interchangeable, for some reason the fittings are always there on the engine to put the third stud in?? the early two stud starters however have a top and bottom stud hole, the later ones have the third side stud hole in the casting as well (roughly triangular rather than symmetrical). I've only ever had one two holer and the recon man threw it away as the pinion was rusted onto the shaft.<br>
<br>
Malc will kill me for saying this, but the core could be used if you have knackered ones you no longer want......as long as the component supply holds out!

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[Jon Tilson]

Ive lost count of the Sprint starters Ive had off and every single one has 3 nuts and bolts of the 9/16 variety. Its a common need to remove to do the timing chain as its the easiest way to lock the crank using big wedge in starter ring gear. Its always 3 bolts, half an hour as Alun says and a 3/8 wobble is a help. My extension bar finishes nicely in front of the engine mounting. Where would the stud go? Is it threaded in to the bell housing or engine end plate?<br>
BTW FWIW 1850's only have 2.<br>
<br>
Jonners

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[hez37]

Thanks for all the comments chaps, but it looks like the weather has put the job off for another weekend! I've got about two weeks left before the 28 days exchange is up + the old BMW has failed it's mot so I've a busy weekend (next weekend now) weather permitting.

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