Sprint Engine in an 1850?

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chrisdickinsoneuropecom · #1 Post by **chrisdickinsoneuropecom** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 1:36 pm

Hello All 
 
My 1850 engine has a crack in the water jacket, and I am loosing more and more water all the time. It looks as though I am going to need to replace the engine. 
 
As a new engine is required, I thought it might be good to increase the power by fitting an Sprint engine. 
 
Can I put a Sprint engine into my 1850? 
 
Would I have to replace the gearbox and rear axel as well? 
 
Thanks 
 
Chris

Sprint36 · #2 Post by **Sprint36** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 1:42 pm

<blockquote>Quote:<hr>Would I have to replace the gearbox and rear axel as well?<hr></blockquote> 
 
Yes, and the propshaft and subframe, and the exhaust, and the load sensing valve, and the clutch slave and pipe. 
 
Use a TR7 engine instead. 
 
David

alun n · #3 Post by **alun n** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 1:42 pm

Yes you can put one in and as all the wiring is on the correct sides it will be more straight forward than fitting one to a 1500 or 1300. 
 
You would need as a minimum engine, gearbox, subframe and radiator. David Myers has been using his 1850 like this for a while but has since changed his axle and prop as well. He will be able to give you greater insight into exactly why... 
 
You might also need the transmission tunnel. 
 
Is your car auto or manual? The autoboxes are the same.

davepoth · #4 Post by **davepoth** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 1:43 pm

The Sprint engine will fit to the 1850 gearbox as externally the blocks are the same, but I should think you will want to upgrade the other bits fairly quickly. The 1850 G'box and axle are similar to the ones in the 1300s, so are near the upper limit of their torque capability. Spirited driving will result in pretty quick wear. 
 
Another option would be a TR7 engine. This will give you a pretty good increase in power, but not as much of a jump as the Sprint engine. Adam (2FAST4U) has just done this swap, so he would be a good person to talk to.

MaddMart · #5 Post by **MaddMart** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 1:43 pm

Where abouts is the leak?

Martin 
 
<a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a>

Jon Tilson · #6 Post by **Jon Tilson** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 2:00 pm

while the Sprint engine can be made to join up with your 1850 bits you will still need to do the exhaust and you will have a transmission at the very limit of its abilities. 
Also the engine mountings will be hard pressed to counter the extra moments of the taller head. 
 
The easy way is to just use a TR7 setup. Ive got 2 of these and it works well. The existing box/diff is up to the job and no problems with exhaust. 
 
If you must go down the Sprint road best do it properly and use al the bits as described in another post....basically the lot from subframe to diff. 
 
Jonners

chrisdickinsoneuropecom · #7 Post by **chrisdickinsoneuropecom** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 2:26 pm

Water Leak: 
The leak is just below the water pump. Its only a hair line crack, and seems to leak only when the engine is cold. Maybe the gap closes up as it gets hot. Thats just my amature guess. But the crack is getting longer and I am loosing more water all the time. About a pint every 50 miles. My garage has flushed the whole cooling system and has used some product that is supposed to fill gaps. This has worked a little, but the problem persists. Hence my consideration of a replacement engine. 
 
Engine Replacement: 
The TR7 option sounds like a good one, but I have found some information the contradicts the theory of improved power as compared to the 1850 engine. The TSSC website quotes the following: 
Dolomite 1850: 95 BHP @ 5200 rpm 
TR7: 92 bhp @ 5000 rpm 
Although the TR7 Engine is bigger it would seem there about the same power?! Are these figures incorrect? 
 
If the easiest answer is to replace my 1850 engine with another 1850 engine, are there some other ways that I can improve the performance of the engine at the same time that wont cost me a huge amount? 
 
Thanks 
 
Chris

LewisK · #8 Post by **LewisK** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 3:11 pm

a factory TR7 is somewhere in the region of 105BHP (or should be). 
 
The 92 brake ones were the North America variants, I think. 
 
A 30 year old one probably makes 90 though <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol">

Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... >LewisK</A> at: 3/7/06 3:14 pm

george · #9 Post by **george** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 3:18 pm

and those are the pistons displayed on marts thread by the look of it

mbellinger · #10 Post by **mbellinger** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 4:48 pm

This is old one and I am amazed that the TSSC has not updated its website yet. 
 
The figures they (mistakenly) quote are for the US Spec TR7. 
 
All European Spec TR7's were rated by BL at 105 bhp, and in practise, are nearly always nearer 107-109 brake when properly set up and tuned (ignition and fuel systems, etc). 
 
After a rolling road tune my old TR7 produced 113 bhp on the rollers and was absolutely bog standard apart from K & N filters and appropriate jetting. Even the exhaust was standard. 
 
The TR7 also has a useful torque increase over the 1850, and this results in a more relaxed drive and significantly improved overtaking. 
 
TR7 engines abound, and are cheap and tough. Unlike Sprint engines which are much more expensive. If you want a Sprint, buy the whole car, otherwise go TR7 as recommended by the lads. It is an excellent conversion with all gain and no pain as fuel consumption should be the same or even slightly better as the torque increase encourages you to change up earlier.

Martin 
 
1968 Triumph 1300FWD 
1975 Triumph 1500TC Auto 
1989 Honda Civic 1300 Auto 
2006 Mondeo 2.0 Ghia X Auto 
2002 Renault Scenic

DailySprinter · #11 Post by **DailySprinter** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 5:02 pm

Are u sure its not just the water pump leaking out of the hole under the water pump?

george · #12 Post by **george** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 5:20 pm

and if you do want all the bits iv'e got them <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)">

alun n · #13 Post by **alun n** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 5:48 pm

It is exceptionally rare for a block to crack/leak on this side of the engine. The other side, around the water drain plug and where the cylinders are expressed in the casting is quite thin; I've seen several cracked blocks in this area. Where you describe the metal is quite thick and as already suggested you may fine its just a weepy waterpump... 
 
Where are you Chris, sounds as if you need a second opinion...

MaddMart · #14 Post by **MaddMart** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 6:46 pm

<blockquote>Quote:<hr>Are u sure its not just the water pump leaking out of the hole under the water pump? <hr></blockquote> 
 
Hence my earlier question! Always look for the simple things first. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)">

Martin 
 
<a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a>

chrisdickinsoneuropecom · #15 Post by **chrisdickinsoneuropecom** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 9:37 pm

Alun 
 
I am not the most mechanically minded, so I have taken the advice of my garage on the source of the leak being a crack in the engine. 
 
However, I'm in Leeds and would love a second opinion on the leak from the Water Jacket. 
 
Nothing would make me happier than to find out that it is just my water pump. 
 
Chris

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