Oil Pressure issues

[BDN712V]

It's been annoying me for a while, so I think I'd better get it sorted:<br>
On starting, it takes my 1500HL ages for the oil pressure light to go out. The oil filter supposedly contains a non-return valve, but I am suspicious...<br>
If the idle drops to below 850rpm, the light will also come on. The oil pump itself was checked over and seemed to be in great condition.<br>
If the sender was the problem, what would I be looking for??<br>
Cheers,<br>
Tim

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... omiteuk</A> at: 20/10/06 10:46 am<br></i>

[Jod Clark]

First things first, try another sender in it. There's nothing you can do with an inaccurate one. Someone may have fitted one that switches the light on at a higher pressure (say 20psi, the standard one puts the light on at just 3psi so is more of a "I've just screwed the cranshaft" indicator). Obtain an oil pressure gauge and look at the readings.<br>
<br>
Next place to look is the pressure-relief spring and after that its bearing check time.<br>
<br>
What pressure does it hold at 2000 RPM hot?<br>
<br>
Jod

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[nick1854]

Mine does too. I always spin the engine without any choke to build up the pressure before firing. This is normal even with the proper filter. If you look at the position of one in situ it is cunningly designed to drain its entire contents 30 minutes after swiching off! My 1850 built up pressure much quicker and I think the filter wasn't angled like the 1500. If your oil light is going out at higher revs it's probably not the sender but low oil pressure at idle.....which usually means things are getting sloppy and tired. Whats the mileage?

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[Silvery]

I'm building up a collection of knackered 1500 cranks...<br>
<br>
Both the 1500 auto's engines have had similar symptoms. Wait for the light to go out, drive, at tickover, watch the light come back on. The original engine was dreadful, when hot it would have to be revved a fair bit to make the light go out, the other engine's better, but still flickers when warm.<br>
<br>
Both have stuffed cranks. The original was scored to buggery, the replacement is scored, but also has marks that look like it's run dry in places and dragged metal around it, into little peaks. only in one or two spots, but still, quite nasty.<br>
<br>
Check the easy bits first, and it's good advice to crank without choke to build up a bit of pressure, but might be an idea to get at least a new set of big end shells on it soon, as it could just be they're shot but the crank's not been damaged yet.<br>
<br>
I know it's going to be dog slow, but this is the reason I'm putting Katy's old 1300 lump in the auto... Seems the 1300 engines survive better (owned 2, one DOA, one thrashed and still held pressure).<br>
<br>
Is there any sort of bracketry pipey adapter available so the oil filter can be relocated into a more sensible position..?

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[BDN712V]

About 55,000 miles. But it has come from a 1500fwd vehicle, and was rebuilt using the remains of the previous engine. That's when we looked at the oil pump and found it to be pretty good.<br>
<br>
Unfortunately I've no way of testing the oil pressure - will have to look out for a gauge...<br>
<br>
To get round the problem (partly) the idle is slightly higher, and as for building up pressure by not using the choke, I'm doing that already. Bottom end rebuild looks to be on the cards...<br>
<br>
Tim

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[alun n]

....I know Steve Wilkes still has a surplus low mileage standard1500 engine sitting in his sprint re shell shell. Can still be road tested too I think. Midlands; Dudley.

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[Jod Clark]

I have a good spare (standard one, with a gearbox) that would do well too...<br>
<br>
Jod

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[Jon Tilson]

clatter a bit on start up? If not then all is well. The small 4's always sound a bit endy as a warning to change the shells. If its quiet then all is well.<br>
I drove my 1850 all the way back from Cardiff with the green light on once...I knew it was the switch cos I'd only had the sump off a month before and all was well...no nasty noises. An oil pressure guage is an easy fit ...just use the oil pressure switch as a takeof position.<br>
If u have a guage the light is redundant init.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Jonners

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[Jod Clark]

I have always used a t-piece and an uprated pressure switch when adding an oil pressure gauge to my cars. That way you get the light and the gauge - keeping the light to draw attention to a falling gauge. I took out my voltmeter and replaced it with a oil pressure gauge - I know which one is more important!!<br>
<br>
Add another t-piece and fit the rocker oil feed too!!<br>
<br>
Anyone after an oil cooler and take-off plate for a 1500?<br>
Jod

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[BDN712V]

Would that be the one advertised as being for 1850 / Sprint on the Rimmer's website? (Am giving some serious thought to this...)<br>
<br>
Wouldn't have thought the rocker oil feed would make that much difference - is it noticeable on the wear??<br>
<br>
Right - back to refurbishing carbs...<br>
<br>
Tim

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[C Mallock]

My 1500 does the same im not sure how many miles the engine has done as the numbers dont match up and looking through the paperwork i got with the car looks like a semi rebuild had been done,<br>
I made the mistake of using a low quality oil when i brought the car not knowing the temperature the oil runs in these engines, im now running the right filter and Valvoline Racing 20-50 oil which we use in our ford x-flow powered race cars my pressure is 75psi @2000 rising to 80psi @3000. however i do get a flicker when hot and idleing

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[john 16v]

can you buy an uprated oil pump?<br>
is it possible to uprate original or tinker pr/relief valve to obtain higher oil pressure.<br>
what about a remote electrical oil pump that comes on with ignition before you fire up engine?<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ns/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Jon Tilson]

of the number of times Ive said this on various groups but here it is again...<br>
The starting sequence on a 1500 shoudl always be...spin with no choke for twenty seconds or so before pulling the choke to fire up. Then you will see a six figure mileage on your crank. The anti drain filter does help and regular oil changes are a must on this engine. Dont ride the clutch in traffic as the thrust is under specced.<br>
<br>
Jonners

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[Silvery]

Cap'ain..<br>
<br>
My new 1300fwd will cough and spin the starter off first turn, with or without choke <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> And the clutch is stuck after a month of not moving, time to find a bit of wood...<br>
<br>
The auto even with a new battery and prolly poor compression (there's stuff coming out the exhaust that shouldn't be getting in the engine, by the looks of things) won't crank for long before it's battery killing time <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
I remember seeing something designed for circuit cars, called an acusump or something - Pressurised oil canister that fed the system when the pump pressure dropped - Useful on the track for when cornering *very* hard for instance. Anyone know much about hat sort of system? It's oput of my price range, but could be worth looking into for people with a bit more spare change kicking about? <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[john 16v]

needs to be a better method than burning out starter motor & flattening battery procedure.<br>
maybe a remote pump at the right price is one way!<br>
any ideas you engineers amongst us<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START 8) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... lasses.gif ALT="8)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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